This system has a typical layout and is easy to bleed.

1. Turn off the power to your boiler
2. Turn off all three return line valves and hook a hose to one of the boiler drains next to one of the valves you just turned off and run it outside or into a bucket. If into a bucket, you may have to empty it once or twice for each zone
3. Manual add water to your boiler using the lever on the automatic water feed until the water pressure is 20-25 PSI. IMPORTANT: Be sure to watch the water PSI the whole time and don't let it get above 25 PSI as the relief valve will open at 30 PSI. If it goes above 25, release the lever.
4. Once it reaches that range, turn on the boiler drain that the hose is connected to and run it until you start to hear or feel air come out of the line. If the PSI drops below 15, turn off the drain and let the pressure build back up and then turn it back on again.
5. Run it until the air stops. If there is no air after a reasonable amount of time, turn the valve back on (the one you turned off earlier next to the drain) for a few seconds to bleed the other end and then turn off the valve and the drain and then repeat the process for the next zone.

When you're all done, bring the PSI down to 12 PSI, turn on all the valves you turned on (not the drains) and turn the furnace back on. Keep in mind that the pressure will rise once the water heats back up to normal temperature, if you happen to look at it later.

Generally the zones on higher floors will have more air than lower ones so I'd start there.

This system has a typical layout and is easy to bleed.

1. Turn off the power to your boiler
2. Turn off all three return line valves and hook a hose to one of the boiler drains above one of the valves you just turned off and run it outside or into a bucket. If into a bucket, you may have to empty it once or twice for each zone
3. Manual add water to your boiler using the lever on the automatic water feed until the water pressure is 20-25 PSI. IMPORTANT: Be sure to watch the water PSI the whole time and don't let it get above 25 PSI as the relief valve will open at 30 PSI. If it goes above 25, release the lever.
4. Once it reaches that range, turn on the boiler drain that the hose is connected to and run it until you start to hear or feel air come out of the line. If the PSI drops below 15, turn off the drain and let the pressure build back up and then turn it back on again.
5. Run it until the air stops. If there is no air after a reasonable amount of time, turn the valve back on (the one you turned off earlier next to the drain) for a few seconds to bleed the other end and then turn off the valve and the drain and then repeat the process for the next zone.

When you're all done, bring the PSI down to 12 PSI, turn on all the valves you turned on (not the drains) and turn the furnace back on. Keep in mind that the pressure will rise once the water heats back up to normal temperature, if you happen to look at it later.

Generally the zones on higher floors will have more air than lower ones so I'd start there.

This system has a typical layout and is easy to bleed.

Turn off the power to your boiler. Turn off all three return line valves and hook a hose to one of the boiler drains next to one of the valves you just turned off and run it outside or into a bucket. If into a bucket, you may have to empty it once or twice for each zone. Manual add water to your boiler using the lever on the automatic water feed until the water pressure is 20-25 PSI. Once it reaches that range, turn on the boiler drain that the hose is connected to and run it until you start to hear or feel air come out of the line. If the PSI drops below 15, turn off the drain and let the pressure build back up and then turn it back on again. Run it until the air stops. If there is no air after a reasonable amount of time, turn the valve back on (the one you turned off earlier next to the drain) for a few seconds to bleed the other end and then turn off the valve and the drain and then repeat the process for the next zone. Be sure to watch the water PSI the whole time and don't let it get above 25 PSI as the relief valve will open at 30 PSI. If it goes above 25, release the lever. When you're all done, bring the PSI down to 12 PSI. Keep in mind that the pressure will rise once the water heats back up to normal temperature, if you happen to look at it later.

Generally the zones on higher floors will have more air than lower ones so I'd start there.

This system has a typical layout and is easy to bleed.

1. Turn off the power to your boiler
2. Turn off all three return line valves and hook a hose to one of the boiler drains next to one of the valves you just turned off and run it outside or into a bucket. If into a bucket, you may have to empty it once or twice for each zone
3. Manual add water to your boiler using the lever on the automatic water feed until the water pressure is 20-25 PSI. IMPORTANT: Be sure to watch the water PSI the whole time and don't let it get above 25 PSI as the relief valve will open at 30 PSI. If it goes above 25, release the lever.
4. Once it reaches that range, turn on the boiler drain that the hose is connected to and run it until you start to hear or feel air come out of the line. If the PSI drops below 15, turn off the drain and let the pressure build back up and then turn it back on again.
5. Run it until the air stops. If there is no air after a reasonable amount of time, turn the valve back on (the one you turned off earlier next to the drain) for a few seconds to bleed the other end and then turn off the valve and the drain and then repeat the process for the next zone.

When you're all done, bring the PSI down to 12 PSI, turn on all the valves you turned on (not the drains) and turn the furnace back on. Keep in mind that the pressure will rise once the water heats back up to normal temperature, if you happen to look at it later.

Generally the zones on higher floors will have more air than lower ones so I'd start there.