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Jul 10, 2018 at 12:12 comment added The Evil Greebo If you take some dowel rod of a similar diameter to the tongue, you can create your own tongue and stick it in the groove of the board that extends from A up into D. Then you reverse the orientation of the boards that work towards D's end. Since your self-made tongue will be a bit short, best to add a little wood glue to that side when you reverse the boards.
Jul 9, 2018 at 15:12 comment added JeremyLee Ahh, the tongue faces out. OK, I understand now, thank you!
Jul 9, 2018 at 14:51 comment added JeremyLee Thanks so much for all the excellent information. So if I backfill from A to D, do I need to face-nail those boards? I don't believe I can staple on the tongue side of the board, correct?
Jul 9, 2018 at 14:31 comment added The Evil Greebo All excellent points. And really at the end of the day nobody's going to notice if there's a partial piece along A or B but they WILL notice if the flooring looks like it's at an accidental angle.
Jul 9, 2018 at 14:30 comment added IronEagle per @isherwood 's comment, I would also make sure you know how square the room is to start with. You might need to taper that first piece to avoid the flooring looking slanted. Buildings are rarely exactly square.
Jul 9, 2018 at 14:22 comment added Chris Cudmore As per edit, D is the top of the stairwell. He's going to need a milled Stair Nose there. So he really can't rip that piece.
Jul 9, 2018 at 14:17 comment added isherwood In my experience you're lucky if a full board works at side A, for example. It's generally best to run a rip a nearly full board there as well for better fitment. I'd want to know how side B's rip cut will work out (to avoid a sliver), and I wouldn't worry about the rips at C and D. They're short enough to not matter much.
Jul 9, 2018 at 13:45 history answered The Evil Greebo CC BY-SA 4.0