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Timeline for LED Light Glowing when off

Current License: CC BY-SA 3.0

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Sep 9, 2019 at 17:15 comment added bdsl This sounds like the effect described in this Steve Mould video: youtube.com/watch?v=1uEmX5XClPY
May 3, 2019 at 1:01 history bumped CommunityBot This question has answers that may be good or bad; the system has marked it active so that they can be reviewed.
Jan 2, 2019 at 0:02 history bumped CommunityBot This question has answers that may be good or bad; the system has marked it active so that they can be reviewed.
Nov 30, 2018 at 10:26 answer added Martin Bonner supports Monica timeline score: 1
Nov 30, 2018 at 10:01 history bumped CommunityBot This question has answers that may be good or bad; the system has marked it active so that they can be reviewed.
Oct 28, 2018 at 12:26 answer added Larry Sarbey timeline score: -1
Sep 29, 2018 at 19:01 comment added rogerdpack Do the bulbs glow if you unplug them? Do you detect a voltage on the receptacle? My hunch is some kind of leaking switch...
Mar 21, 2018 at 9:00 comment added Ken @ag93 your wiring diagram shows power going through the switch first. So I am not sure what you mean when you say you rewired it to go through the switch first. I think a new drawing of what you have now is needed. BTW where is the ground from your main - I don't see it in the drawing ..
Mar 21, 2018 at 3:07 comment added ag93 @Ken sorry its been a few days finally found time to mess with it again. So upon thinking I decided to rewire the room now the power goes through the switch first. My 2 4ft led shoplights from the center outlet no longer glow and the 4 sylvania flush mount led are barely glowing now. I tried to seperate the "main line" as much from the lines feeding the lights and it seems to have worked for the most part. Still have the 4 led lights faintly glowing though.
Mar 18, 2018 at 5:01 comment added Ken @dandavis LED lighting solutions for the home use a Power Driver that controls current , much like a resistor would but resistors have several issues which is why they are not used. Your LED's in the home like the op's normally have internal power drivers which can range in frequencies even up to 2MHZ. While they might be plugged into a 50-60hz source they do not operate at 50-60hz internally they rectify that AC into DC and the power driver then uses FReq and PWM to control the current and voltage supplied to the LED's -many reasons why this is, far too much to discuss here.
Mar 16, 2018 at 23:54 comment added dandavis @Ken: what are you referring to when you say that LED drivers "operates in the RF range"? Cheap ones are capacitive droppers that operate at 50-60Hz, really cheap ones just use resistors and many series LEDs, while nicer ones use an SMPS driver that typically operate at 20-100khz. where's the RF come in?
Mar 15, 2018 at 23:25 comment added ag93 @ken. Thanks ill do some testing and update when completed
Mar 15, 2018 at 23:23 comment added Ken @ag93 yes check it with the switch off - but you should not see anything even with the switch on. Use an Analog Meter ($3 to $5) not a Digital Meter - the Analog Meter has a lo impedance, your Digital Meter is a high impedance device and might show phantom or stray voltage. Do not use a 'voltage tester' Use an analog meter.
Mar 15, 2018 at 23:11 comment added ag93 @ken I'm assuming that when you say test neutral to geound you are talking when the switch is off correct?
Mar 15, 2018 at 22:59 comment added Ken I would test my neutral to ground voltage and anything over 1.0 VAC I would look into (normally you might see .7 VAC or less). One test you could try is to turn off all your breakers except for those lights - leave only one connected. See how it behaves, if it is ok connect the other lights, if ok again, flip the breakers on one by one and test, if you get to one that causes the same effect you will know where the source is. This is how I would approach it process of elimination and to know more about the problem.
Mar 15, 2018 at 22:47 comment added ag93 @ken. I was going to pick up a filter as you recommended, anything else you could recommend?
Mar 15, 2018 at 22:06 comment added Ken @ag93 What many people do not realize is that LED's have a driver circuit and operates in the RF range of frequencies. They can also have phosphorescent coatings depending on brand. When people mismatch LED's the driver circuits might affect one another or another device might affect them, this is why my remote ceiling fan behaves the way it does. With out getting into details, RF circuits can oscillate from certain excitation's you might have something else generating a frequency causing a poorly designed LED to glow. A bad neutral with 2 VAC can cause issues.
Mar 15, 2018 at 21:26 comment added ag93 The switch does not have a illuminated toggle. As stated a few times it is just an ordinary single pole switch
Mar 15, 2018 at 18:05 comment added Jeff Cates Does the switch have an illuminated toggle?
Mar 15, 2018 at 15:50 comment added ag93 thanks all for the replies, @Harper i doubt that the switch is anything other than an ordinary switch. The first one i used was a simply 2 pole switch from Menards(cost like$1.50) usually a smart switch will cost more. Also i think that i already said somewhere that i plugged a incandescent work lamp into the outlet and the LEDs all still glowed.@Ken the 4 foot shop light is the Walmart brand shop lights, i dont think that they are made on an fluorescent fixture, but the other light still glow either way.
Mar 15, 2018 at 15:46 comment added Harper - Reinstate Monica @Ken I would... I do not like "electrical mysteries" like that. They have a funny way of killing people or burning their house down.
Mar 15, 2018 at 15:14 comment added Ken @Harper I know they can't glow if they are not getting power.. they are. I had LED's in a ceiling fan stay lit if I either mixed or matched LED brands, or LED's and Incandescent or had a particular brand. Swapped LED brand and used in all lamp sockets and it works fine. Now why that was - I am not going to re-engineer my ceiling fan to figure it out.
Mar 15, 2018 at 15:12 comment added Ken @Harper you got me laughing this morning so thanks. I have noticed helpful information gets left out quite a lot as well.
Mar 15, 2018 at 15:09 comment added Harper - Reinstate Monica @Ken that is terrible advice, they can't glow if they're not getting power. They should not be getting power. That is the problem on the table here.
Mar 15, 2018 at 15:05 comment added Harper - Reinstate Monica It happens rather frequently around here that an OP will swear on a stack of Bibles that it is a plain ordinary switch, but deeper inquiry reveals that it's an active switch that powers itself by flowing a small amount of current through incandescent bulbs. The dead giveaway is replacing one bulb with incandescent cures the problem. Yours are hardwired but you have a switched socket. Plug in something that acts like an incandescent, such as a heater, hair dryer or any other heating/resistive load. If turning that on extinguishes the LED glow, voila.
Mar 15, 2018 at 14:49 comment added Ken That added info was important the 4 foot LED shop light (sometimes these are fluorescent style or LED's in a fluorescent fixture) and they introduce RF noise - disconnect it what happens ? As for the line filter here is a 20AMP line filter. mouser.com/ProductDetail/Schurter/… Also use the @ symbol when using a name in the comments as that alerts my inbox that a reply has been made directly to me.
Mar 15, 2018 at 13:50 comment added ag93 Thanks for the information ken, but on the switched outlet in the middle i have a 4ft led shop light connected and they also glow, so im not sure if the brand has anything to do with it. When you say "put a filter on the line in" what do you mean by filter?
Mar 15, 2018 at 13:20 comment added Ken I am glad you added what brand the LED's are - get rid of them. Normally I like them but in some situations they tend to glow. I think it has to do with frequencies that exists on the line (Noise). You might get away with putting a filter on the Line In at JCT Box 1.
Mar 15, 2018 at 12:58 comment added ag93 thanks for the replies. the switch is just a standard 2 way switch, i have tried at least three different ones with the same results, and yes it is a switched outlet. all of the lights are Sylvania flush mount led fixtures, so the lights are built into them. As far as the wiring to the switch it is just a single romex, no plans to tap into it or install a different switch.
Mar 15, 2018 at 4:30 comment added noybman PS... Per recent code, does your switch have a full romex in and out? You'll want that for example if you ever tapped off, or wanted a smart switch
Mar 15, 2018 at 4:29 comment added noybman Are you sure the wires are all inclusive as drawn? Doy ou have anything plugged into the socket? (Outlet one)
Mar 15, 2018 at 3:54 comment added jsotola what kind of a switch are you using? .... is the outlet really switched?
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