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Nov 7, 2017 at 3:14 history edited salisboss CC BY-SA 3.0
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Nov 7, 2017 at 3:02 comment added dandavis ex: cram wadded paper into the baseboard to prevent heat from jumping out of the pipe at an overly-hot location. stopping the airflow helps the most, completely insulting it stops the last ~25% or so. this is the same principle as adjusting baffles: you're adjusting the heat bleed to fit the location. insulating the heater lower the transfer at that point, which increases the temp of the water downstream, allowing more heat to escape where needed. Fans are the opposite of insulation; heating the room as the heater cools.
Nov 7, 2017 at 2:59 comment added salisboss @dandavis what do you mean insulate the heaters to move the heat along?
Nov 7, 2017 at 2:27 comment added dandavis if there's no flaps, you can still insulate the heaters where it's too hot, using any variety of materials, i used tshirts in college. it's not a waste because the heat goes on to where you want it more. a small fan blowing on the heater (cooling it, warming the room) where its cold will also help.
Nov 6, 2017 at 15:26 answer added Dave McGinty timeline score: 2
Nov 6, 2017 at 14:59 comment added Ecnerwal Hot water baseboard typically has a flap/louver on the top of the baseboard unit. Open those in the cold area, close them in the thermostat/hot area.
Nov 6, 2017 at 14:25 comment added salisboss My heat is hot water baseboard. There are no ducts or floor wall for heat. For the A/C there are ceiling vents and I think the dampers are in the attic.
Nov 6, 2017 at 14:08 comment added isherwood Both issues are typically resolved by balancing the system with duct dampers or floor/wall louvers. Have you attempted that?
Nov 6, 2017 at 14:07 history edited isherwood CC BY-SA 3.0
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Nov 6, 2017 at 13:33 history asked salisboss CC BY-SA 3.0