Timeline for Fluorescent Light In Garage - Mounting Issues
Current License: CC BY-SA 3.0
5 events
| when toggle format | what | by | license | comment | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Feb 4, 2012 at 5:30 | vote | accept | drewrockshard | ||
| Feb 4, 2012 at 5:28 | comment | added | drewrockshard | Sweet! Just what I thought about doing (the cheap but efficient way). I just wanted to make sure I would be able to use the togglers on the drywall ceilings. Thanks for your confirmation. | |
| Feb 4, 2012 at 5:19 | comment | added | lqlarry | @drewrockshard - I work at an electrical wholesaler, and usually the electricians are told where the customer wants the lights and then the electrician makes it happen. They buy a lot of toggle bolts for this, mostly 3/16 x 3". Fixtures probably weigh 1/2(?) as much as they used to because now they use electronic ballast. If you cant hit a stud, then use togglers. Don't drill holes in the back of a surface mount fluorescent fixture. They have 4 feet molded in the metal back to keep the air moving underneath the fixture. | |
| Feb 4, 2012 at 4:31 | comment | added | drewrockshard | Thanks for this answer. Quick side question, what if I were to install some togglers? Would this be a viable solution also? I believe the ceiling is drywall. | |
| Feb 4, 2012 at 3:02 | history | answered | lqlarry | CC BY-SA 3.0 |