Timeline for Options to cool attached sunroom
Current License: CC BY-SA 3.0
6 events
| when toggle format | what | by | license | comment | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jun 12, 2017 at 16:31 | comment | added | feetwet | @MattHughes - If it any time you see condensation between the panes that's an irrefutable sign that seal has failed. If over the course of a year you never see condensation, then I doubt they've failed. Although these days thermal cameras are cheap and easy enough to get ahold of that you could reassure yourself by taking a picture of the windows from the inside (when it's hot out) or outside (when it's cold out) and look for glaring differences in heat transmittance, as in the picture in my answer. | |
| Jun 12, 2017 at 16:20 | comment | added | Matt Hughes | Assuming I could acquire window and install date and it was still under warranty, how could I prove they've lost their efficacy? | |
| Jun 12, 2017 at 15:28 | comment | added | feetwet | @ShimonRura - The "warm bottom" is the exposed poured foundation. Above that radiation line is brick siding (and whatever insulates behind that). The "hot" pipe up the side is a sub-slab suction fan and vent (for radon mitigation). Both of those show how great geothermal heat sinks are since they're both conducting natural "heat" from below the frostline. | |
| Jun 12, 2017 at 15:23 | comment | added | Shimon Rura | Off-topic comment: why is the bottom of that building so warm? It looks like you have a lot of heat leaking at your rim joist. And what is that hot line up the right side? My guess is radon mitigation or furnace vent. | |
| Jun 12, 2017 at 15:21 | comment | added | Shimon Rura | +1 for deciduous trees. Although since this is a sunroom with a glass roof, you'd need a mature tree to have strongest effect, which might take a few years. Also you may not want a tree that can shed leaves or branches above a glass roof. | |
| Jun 12, 2017 at 15:01 | history | answered | feetwet | CC BY-SA 3.0 |