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Harper - Reinstate Monica
Harper - Reinstate Monica
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You generally have 3 conductors in a 3/4-way switch loop, and you can't misuse ground as a conductor. That leaves Only two ways to do it (short of a relay and low-voltage wiring):

You can't do it with the wireSmart switches in the walls - probably.auxiliary locations

Obtain smart switches designed to be "remotes" for the main motion sensor and interact with it electronically, either using 1 wire as a data line, or wireless via power-line signaling or radio.

Very lucky topology

This can only work, if

  • supply power comes in to the light, the switches are all one spur, and the motion sensor is in the first box.
  • supply power comes into the same switch box as the spur to the light, and the sensor is in that box.
  • the essential interconnections are in conduit, and you can pull more wires.

Otherwise you'll have a spot where you need 4 wires, and you only have 3 in the walls.

Your sensor needs three wires coming in: always-hot, switched-hot from the switch, and neutral for the light's currrentcurrent return. The sensor doesn't need neutral, but the light does, so inevitably neutral must come back this way.

http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/369488.pdf

It does not support a 3-way switch. It supports a plain switch which switches between 'open' and always-hot or switched-hot. If it is placed in one position and the one other position was a 3-way switch, then they have you rewire the 3-way to be a plain switch.

Since you have two remaining positions with manual switches, those two positions must together emulate the behavior of a plain 1-way switch. They way you do that is the classical 3-way circuit. If you were in conduit, I would say the The 4-way switch needs to be swapped out for a 3-way. Which you happen to have spare. Which will necessitate pulling a fourth wire throughHowever, if supply to the conduit so you canlight also bring always-hot through fortravels the smart switch. wires, you'll need 4 wires in that segment:

  • always-hot for the smart switch
  • messenger 1
  • messenger 2
  • neutral to return current from the light

HoweverThis is one more than a traditional n-way, if you are not in conduit and are relying oninstalled with the usual 14/3 wiring for a 3-way... Then, and you are a wire shy. You can't do itretrofit a consuctor.

This does work if your topology is just right; the box containing the smart switch is fed by supply and feeds the light; andright: the two remaining physical switches are on a spur. In that case you won't need to carry lighting power (i.e. The neutral) between switches and you'll have enough wires.

You can't do it with the wire in the walls - probably.

Your sensor needs three wires coming in: always-hot, switched-hot from the switch, and neutral for the light's currrent return. The sensor doesn't need neutral, but the light does, so inevitably neutral must come back this way.

http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/369488.pdf

It does not support a 3-way switch. It supports a plain switch which switches between 'open' and always-hot or switched-hot. If it is placed in one position and the one other position was a 3-way switch, then they have you rewire the 3-way to be a plain switch.

Since you have two remaining positions with manual switches, those two positions must together emulate the behavior of a plain 1-way switch. They way you do that is the classical 3-way circuit. If you were in conduit, I would say the 4-way switch needs to be swapped out for a 3-way. Which you happen to have spare. Which will necessitate pulling a fourth wire through the conduit so you can also bring always-hot through for the smart switch.

  • always-hot for the smart switch
  • messenger 1
  • messenger 2
  • neutral to return current from the light

However, if you are not in conduit and are relying on the usual 14/3 wiring for a 3-way... Then you are a wire shy. You can't do it.

This does work if your topology is just right; the box containing the smart switch is fed by supply and feeds the light; and the two remaining physical switches are on a spur.

You generally have 3 conductors in a 3/4-way switch loop, and you can't misuse ground as a conductor. That leaves Only two ways to do it (short of a relay and low-voltage wiring):

Smart switches in the auxiliary locations

Obtain smart switches designed to be "remotes" for the main motion sensor and interact with it electronically, either using 1 wire as a data line, or wireless via power-line signaling or radio.

Very lucky topology

This can only work, if

  • supply power comes in to the light, the switches are all one spur, and the motion sensor is in the first box.
  • supply power comes into the same switch box as the spur to the light, and the sensor is in that box.
  • the essential interconnections are in conduit, and you can pull more wires.

Otherwise you'll have a spot where you need 4 wires, and you only have 3 in the walls.

Your sensor needs three wires coming in: always-hot, switched-hot from the switch, and neutral for the light's current return. The sensor doesn't need neutral, but the light does, so inevitably neutral must come back this way.

http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/369488.pdf

It does not support a 3-way switch. It supports a plain switch which switches between 'open' and always-hot or switched-hot. If it is placed in one position and the one other position was a 3-way switch, then they have you rewire the 3-way to be a plain switch.

Since you have two remaining positions with manual switches, those two positions must together emulate the behavior of a plain 1-way switch. They way you do that is the classical 3-way circuit. The 4-way switch needs to be swapped out for a 3-way. Which you happen to have spare. However, if supply to the light also travels the switch wires, you'll need 4 wires in that segment:

  • always-hot for the smart switch
  • messenger 1
  • messenger 2
  • neutral to return current from the light

This is one more than a traditional n-way, installed with the usual 14/3, and you can't retrofit a consuctor.

This does work if your topology is just right: the two remaining physical switches are on a spur. In that case you won't need to carry lighting power (i.e. The neutral) between switches and you'll have enough wires.

added 42 characters in body
Source Link
Harper - Reinstate Monica
Harper - Reinstate Monica
  • 309.9k
  • 27
  • 294
  • 761

UYouYou can't do it with the wire in the walls - probably.

Your sensor needs three wires coming in: always-hot, switched-hot from the switch, and neutral for the light's currrent return. The sensor doesn't need neutral, but the light does, so inevitably neutral must come back this way.

http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/369488.pdf

It does not support a 3-way switch. It supports a plain switch which switches between 'open' and always-hot or switched-hot. If it is placed in one position and the one other position was a 3-way switch, then they have you rewire the 3-way to be a plain switch.

Since you have two remaining positions with manual switches, those two positions must together emulate the behavior of a plain 1-way switch. They way you do that is the classical 3-way circuit. If you were in conduit, I would say the 4-way switch needs to be swapped out for a 3-way. Which you happen to have spare. However, now you haveWhich will necessitate pulling a fourth wire-count problem. Depending on your topology, what do you need between through the two remaining 3conduit so you can also bring always-way switches?hot through for the smart switch.

  • always-hot for the smart switch
  • messenger 1
  • messenger 2
  • neutral to return current from the light

That's 4 conductors andHowever, if you don't have themare not in conduit and are relying on the usual 14/3 wiring for a 3-way... Then you are a wire shy. You can't do it.

This only worksdoes work if your topology is just right; the box containing the smart switch is fed by supply and feeds the light; and the two remaining physical switches are on a spur.

UYou can't do it with the wire in the walls - probably.

Your sensor needs three wires coming in: always-hot, switched-hot from the switch, and neutral for the light's currrent return. The sensor doesn't need neutral, but the light does, so inevitably neutral must come back this way.

http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/369488.pdf

It does not support a 3-way switch. It supports a plain switch which switches between 'open' and always-hot or switched-hot. If it is placed in one position and the one other position was a 3-way switch, then they have you rewire the 3-way to be a plain switch.

Since you have two remaining positions with manual switches, those two positions must together emulate the behavior of a plain 1-way switch. They way you do that is the classical 3-way circuit. If you were in conduit, I would say the 4-way switch needs to be swapped out for a 3-way. Which you happen to have spare. However, now you have a wire-count problem. Depending on your topology, what do you need between the two remaining 3-way switches?

  • always-hot for the smart switch
  • messenger 1
  • messenger 2
  • neutral to return current from the light

That's 4 conductors and you don't have them in the usual 14/3 wiring for a 3-way.

This only works if your topology is just right; the box containing the smart switch is fed by supply and feeds the light; and the two remaining physical switches are on a spur.

You can't do it with the wire in the walls - probably.

Your sensor needs three wires coming in: always-hot, switched-hot from the switch, and neutral for the light's currrent return. The sensor doesn't need neutral, but the light does, so inevitably neutral must come back this way.

http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/369488.pdf

It does not support a 3-way switch. It supports a plain switch which switches between 'open' and always-hot or switched-hot. If it is placed in one position and the one other position was a 3-way switch, then they have you rewire the 3-way to be a plain switch.

Since you have two remaining positions with manual switches, those two positions must together emulate the behavior of a plain 1-way switch. They way you do that is the classical 3-way circuit. If you were in conduit, I would say the 4-way switch needs to be swapped out for a 3-way. Which you happen to have spare. Which will necessitate pulling a fourth wire through the conduit so you can also bring always-hot through for the smart switch.

  • always-hot for the smart switch
  • messenger 1
  • messenger 2
  • neutral to return current from the light

However, if you are not in conduit and are relying on the usual 14/3 wiring for a 3-way... Then you are a wire shy. You can't do it.

This does work if your topology is just right; the box containing the smart switch is fed by supply and feeds the light; and the two remaining physical switches are on a spur.

Source Link
Harper - Reinstate Monica
Harper - Reinstate Monica
  • 309.9k
  • 27
  • 294
  • 761

UYou can't do it with the wire in the walls - probably.

Your sensor needs three wires coming in: always-hot, switched-hot from the switch, and neutral for the light's currrent return. The sensor doesn't need neutral, but the light does, so inevitably neutral must come back this way.

http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/369488.pdf

It does not support a 3-way switch. It supports a plain switch which switches between 'open' and always-hot or switched-hot. If it is placed in one position and the one other position was a 3-way switch, then they have you rewire the 3-way to be a plain switch.

Since you have two remaining positions with manual switches, those two positions must together emulate the behavior of a plain 1-way switch. They way you do that is the classical 3-way circuit. If you were in conduit, I would say the 4-way switch needs to be swapped out for a 3-way. Which you happen to have spare. However, now you have a wire-count problem. Depending on your topology, what do you need between the two remaining 3-way switches?

  • always-hot for the smart switch
  • messenger 1
  • messenger 2
  • neutral to return current from the light

That's 4 conductors and you don't have them in the usual 14/3 wiring for a 3-way.

This only works if your topology is just right; the box containing the smart switch is fed by supply and feeds the light; and the two remaining physical switches are on a spur.