milkboneUnderwear

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seen May 3 at 16:37
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Apr
29
accepted Why is the top step of a stair a different thickness than the other treads?
Apr
26
comment Why is the top step of a stair a different thickness than the other treads?
In your picture above, is the "grooved" (non-nose) part of that piece the same thickness (3/4" in my case) as hardwood flooring? If so, then the nose portion would obviously be thicker than 3/4" and then I should be pretty well good to go.
Apr
26
comment Why is the top step of a stair a different thickness than the other treads?
So when calculating my rises, I should be able to safely assume that my nose thickness for the flooring part is standardized to be the same thickness as the nose thickness for the stair treads themselves?
Apr
26
awarded  Editor
Apr
26
revised Why is the top step of a stair a different thickness than the other treads?
deleted 342 characters in body; edited title
Apr
26
asked Why is the top step of a stair a different thickness than the other treads?
Mar
12
awarded  Supporter
Mar
12
comment How do I provide proper fire protection in this situation?
On a related note, I ended up using 3/4" plywood as fireblocking above the 2" (pink) foam board above my interior basement/foundation walls. Drywall is also typically used here but I'm not ready to drywall that area yet, so I went with 3/4" plywood because the city (Madison, WI) website says that 3/4" plywood meets code the same way drywall does. I'll probably use drywall everywhere else down there, but in a pinch the plywood should be fine.
Mar
12
accepted How do I provide proper fire protection in this situation?
Mar
10
comment How do I provide proper fire protection in this situation?
You should go ahead and type that up as a formal answer since that's what I ended up doing. I didn't want to drywall behind it because I was already squeezing a 16" duct into a 16" spot, but I can make the extra 1/2" (from the drywall thickness) work so I might as well go with something I know for sure the inspector won't think twice about.
Mar
10
asked How do I provide proper fire protection in this situation?
Dec
17
awarded  Student
Dec
17
awarded  Scholar
Dec
17
accepted Are 2" roofing nails through the nailing fins of a new window enough to hold the window in place permanently?
Dec
17
comment Are 2" roofing nails through the nailing fins of a new window enough to hold the window in place permanently?
I've followed the instructions and those instructions only specified nails in the nailing fins... but I'd probably feel more confident that the windows won't fall out of the friggin' house if they had a few screws in the extension jambs. The problem is that I have a buttload of windows and I'd rather spend my time working on the other million things I need to complete in my project. Since I'm not getting the impression that new construction windows have jamb screws attached as a matter of common practice (and since my instructions didn't specify it), I will probably leave them as is.
Dec
17
comment Are 2" roofing nails through the nailing fins of a new window enough to hold the window in place permanently?
I'm comfortable with the flashing, etc. I guess I was just asking more of a bigger picture question about whether new install windows (with nailing fins) are ALSO attached to the house by way of the jambs (with countersunk installation screws) or if connecting the nailing fin is usually all that is done.
Dec
17
comment Are 2" roofing nails through the nailing fins of a new window enough to hold the window in place permanently?
Well it's too late to add any screws to the nailing fins since I'm all nailed up and flashed. The install instructions for the windows didn't say anything about screws in the nailing fins, but they also didn't say anything about screws in the extension jambs. At this point the extension jambs are my only option and I'm just trying to figure out if that's necessary.
Dec
17
asked Are 2" roofing nails through the nailing fins of a new window enough to hold the window in place permanently?