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bio website gregmaclellan.com
location Canada
age 33
visits member for 4 years, 5 months
seen 2 hours ago

Professional software developer since 2000. Have worked on many open-source projects, and am currently employed as a senior web application developer.


Nov
26
comment How to Convert an Undersink Filter System to an Above Sink System
Tough situation. I'm definitely not aware of any type of off-the-shelf adapter ring as you described. Because of the pull-out faucet, it's going to be even more of a tough fit with the hose looping down through the countertop as well. I'd probably look at coming out the side of the cabinets or something. If there's no backsplash, and it's not an outside wall, put a hole in the drywall to route around the counter top maybe? It's really difficult to suggest viable alternatives without knowing the full layout. You could also try negotiating with the landlord to just permanently install correctly.
Nov
26
comment How to Convert an Undersink Filter System to an Above Sink System
Is this an RO system or something else..? Is the dispenser faucet currently mounted inside your cabinet right now? An "undersink filter system" to me means that the filter is under the sink with a dispensing faucet right next to the kitchen tap, mounted in the countertop. This is in contrast to having the actual filters mounted in the basement somewhere (still, with the dispensing faucet somewhere accessible), or a whole-house filter (where the kitchen tap itself is filtered water). Picture maybe?
Nov
26
comment What different types of remotely controlled light switches exist?
Also, possibly dupes: What are the pros and cons of different types of smart switches (that are on the US market) ?, What is the most common home automation technology?, What are some scalable, affordable home automation options?
Nov
26
comment What different types of remotely controlled light switches exist?
Tip: Don't do X10. It's cheap, but that's literally the only thing going for it. X10 is really, really awful (as in, random noise is mistaken for the "All on" command on a monthly basis, signals get lost, multiple commands noticeably take several seconds to send). Insteon is decent (so long as you use dual-band), reasonably cheap, and the gear looks nice. Z-Wave has more manufacturers supporting it, the gear is starting to look nicer than it used to, and apparently it works quite well. UPB looks nice (programming flexibility puts all others to shame) but is a bit more niche.
Nov
26
comment What different types of remotely controlled light switches exist?
How is an Arduino not a "hub" in the way you described? Single centralized device, bridges gap between protocols, and relays control signals...
Nov
25
comment Christmas lights haunting me
@Tester101 Updated. Feel free to edit in specific NEC citations if you like :)
Nov
25
comment How can I extend a circuit so I can plug in my under cabinet lighting?
@Steven: There actually is such a thing as a DC extension cord, though I doubt you'd find one at a store like Home Depot.
Nov
25
comment How can I extend a circuit so I can plug in my under cabinet lighting?
@tester if run along the top of cabinets and used to plug in a standard plug, wouldn't this be considered "temporary"? I have a lamp in my living room plugged in via extension cord that had been that way since I moved in, but it is still "temporary". Not clear to me that this situation is any different..
Nov
24
comment Mounting a 32" LED TV to Dry Wall without Stud Support
Are you saying that chunk of drywall is on studs 32" (80cm) apart? That is very suspicious as 1) that is too big a span for drywall, and 2) standard spacing is 16" (and the only other common spacing is 24")... I would bet there is another stud exactly between the two you found, which of course you could use for your mount. Try a bit harder with your stud finder, or try putting an exploratory finishing nail in. (Note: with only one stud in the center, I'd rely on the bulk of the weight being supported by the stud but still use drywall anchors of some type mostly for stability)
Nov
24
comment How can I extend a circuit so I can plug in my under cabinet lighting?
Is this literally just sitting on top of the cabinets? Why not run an extension cord over to the new location? As long as you're not building this in (eg, routing through the cabinets, or behind walls), from what you described it would be okay to do this way. Similarly, you could extend the low-voltage wire that goes to the LED lights -- either with a purpose-built DC extension cord (if it'll work), or by splicing in your own extension (you can ask another question for details on how to do that safely).
Nov
24
comment Fire proofing walls with Aluminum Foil Tape
I think you're on the path to spend a lot of money and effort to achieve little result (eg, 30-60 minutes extra of rated fire time). Also, do you have an exterior fire-rated door on the room? Is the ventilation system separated? The first thing that comes to mind is that you should make sure you have arc fault breakers on the circuit(s) in the room, as well as a smoke detector and nearby fire extinguisher. Far less money, and even if you have all the type X drywall in the world it's still not good to have a fire in your house.
Nov
21
comment Plumbing: Dual volume control valve WITHOUT mixing
I've certainly never heard of a valve that has two separate in/outs like you're describing. However, I am thinking about this being possible using solenoids.. but safety is an issue.
Nov
21
comment Plumbing: Dual volume control valve WITHOUT mixing
Clearly this is related to your other question
Nov
20
comment Very old furnace- I need a technician to inspect it-What would be a good check up list?
I can't imagine anyone would be willing to provide that type of guarantee. If there does end up being a problem, how could you possibly prove whether the inspector missed it or if it was a problem that developed afterwards?
Nov
20
comment Why is my shower not draining, even though there is no physical blockage?
5' is 2m, so even if there is a vent, it's still too far away (assuming the drain pipe is 2" .. you didn't say). This unfortunately means whoever did your plumbing didn't know what they were doing, so this may just be the start of problems. What to do next depends on the bathroom layout, and if you can find and access a vent stack. Your local codes may also allow use of an AAV (air admittance valve, aka 'cheater vent'), but layout will also dictate if that's even possible. Post some pictures and/or drawings of the layout (with dimensions relevant to plumbing) and someone might be able to help.
Nov
19
comment Inconsistent Garage Door Open Remotes
Definitely sounds like a radio interference issue. Has this always worked this way? Did you install the opener? How old is it? Make/Model #? Most openers have an antenna which is just a short piece of wire hanging down -- is it maybe inside or stuck up against some metal, or does re-positioning it help? Is the keypad wireless or wired? Have you tried changing/resetting the codes on the remotes?
Nov
19
comment Why does my kitchen sink not drain properly after I don't use it for a while?
A symptom of this would be that it would drain alright with a bit of water (such as if the tap was running), but not if a large quantity of water was put down the drain at once (such as when draining the whole sink). This may help @Lauren diagnose the issue. (Also in addition to clogged vent, consider: improperly installed vent, or vented using a 'cheater valve' which is now malfunctioning)
Nov
19
comment Why is my shower not draining, even though there is no physical blockage?
Sounds like a venting issue. Since you have it torn up, can you see where the vent is? Local code can vary, and the distance will depend on pipe size, but IIRC for 2" pipe the vent must connected be within 5' of the trap.
Nov
19
comment How can I determine what size pressure pump and tank do I need?
To answer your question, in order to size a pump you need to know the total dynamic head (TDH) and the flow rate you want. TDH is basically the vertical distance you're pumping, plus friction loss from the pipe. Friction loss depends on size of pipe plus flow rate. For example, if you want 13 US GPM through a 1" poly pipe, you're looking at TDH of about 91 ft (28 meters) -- there are charts for this. Looking at a couple pump sizing curves, looks like a 1/2 HP pump would work (but you need to check the curves for the pump you want to use, based on your TDH, flow rate and pipe size).
Nov
19
comment How can I determine what size pressure pump and tank do I need?
You don't need a pressure tank, you can literally just have a submersible or jet pump go into a pipe that is open at the other end. Probably not a bad idea to have a check valve if there's not one in the pump since otherwise the water in the pipe will drain back when turned off (not a big deal, just means it'll take longer when the pump does come on). The pump would be controlled by a float switch.