New answers tagged

2

I agree that for cutting 2 x 4's you absolutely do not want to use a jig saw. While a jig saw is handy to have. As Ed mentioned, you cannot get square cuts and are generally used for thin material and scroll work unless you shell out the money for a professional model with massive power. A compound miter saw is a better choice than a chop saw. I believe ...


1

Wow that was a long question! First welcome to the stack exchange , now to try to answer your questions. First if you want to spend just a little $ and do trim and framing Don't get a jig saw! Your cuts will not be square. A chop saw that can tilt can be purchased for a few more $ and it can cut square 2x4's and miter cuts. Chop saws cannot rip lumber and I ...


0

I say oil based primer & paint. And the reason is, most of the manufactured doors these days are veneered & not solid. Water based Acrylic primer & paint are okay on a solid wood door , but is is bad for veneered doors. I sell both types of doors. And my customers are all told to use oil based products when finishing their doors. If they don't ...


2

It's not uncommon for a softwood frame built independently of any support structure to have a twist. It's usually resolved when you add your top sheet and anchor the assembly to walls, legs, etc. Gravity helps over time as well. I wouldn't bother taking anything apart unless it's convenient.


10

Buy another 2x4 that is straight. If it is for a workbench top you should be buying the best quality you can find which might cost $2 more.


3

I would definitely assume the wall is supporting that beam. Get a structural engineer's advice to be sure, and to find out what your options might be. Solutions often exist, but may not be DIYable... and this is emphatically not something you want to risk getting wrong. For comparison: My contractor was able to open a 15-foot-wide passageway through a ...


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Check out this article: http://homesteadfinishingproducts.com/rubbing-out-finishes/. When I first tried to get a glossy finish on a piece of stained wood with Shellac I was getting streaks in my otherwise glossy finish because I had a hard and imperfect sanding block. My solution was to stop sanding at grit 400 or 500 (probably could have stopped at 320) ...


1

A handsaw will do the job and is the cheapest tool that will if you need to buy something for this. A sharp ripsaw would be best - the coarser side of the low-end pull saws is probably the easiest way to find one of those in the current market.


1

[planer fence 1You will have to get creative with the fence. I have added a few pics to help. You will want to use a much shorter piece to ride along the flat part of the header and you will have a little part on the ends that will need to be finished by hand. The pics were done very quickly and are just to give you the idea.


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Everything is fine. Don't worry about the small imperfections. Wait for the polyurethane to dry completely and cure as hard as possible. Depending on the level of gloss you want, go to an auto supply store and get a bunch of different grits from 300 and up. Get an assortment pack and stick with 3m. Cheap sanding paper is more expensive, since they don't ...


1

I have very good results filling lock bores and hinge mortises on doors, and latch holes in jambs, using 2 part wood filler. It's polyester resin filler similar to automobile body filler: bonds tightly, easily shaped with "cheese grater" planes and sandpaper, cures hard, will not shrink, can be drilled/screwed into/chiseled, etc. Works great as long as you ...


1

1/8th" Luaun plywood from the big box store and a good chisel should let you cut out very tight fitting patch pieces with some practice. That'll get it into paint shape. For a stain finish, you would have to try to match the grain and color, which would be a bit harder.


4

If you can get a rough cut with a Recopicating saw, you can use a handheld power planer to finish the cut and get the right angle. Just attach a scrap piece, cut at the correct angle, to the planer fence.


0

When barn wood was really booming I used to find old structures and offer to dismantle and haul all the wood for free if I could keep the wood. Not many folks agreed but I did get several large barns. I found the inside timbers were almost gold 10-14" beams tight grain and totally clear (no knots). Some I sent a letter to some I just talked to.


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Wikipedia says usual approaches are either insecticides (possibly supplemented with electrical bug zappers to kill emerging adults), or moving the piece into a deep freeze for a few weeks (usually expensive and may cause some damage). Low oxygen treatment is non-damaging but even slower and still usually expensive.


1

I believe you should contact a licensed exterminator. My experience with hard to reach burrowing insects or worms was dealt with by an exterminator who has access to products we do not. For example we have had problems with carpenter bees which travelled long distances through the beams. With a puff of some powder" which the creature carries back to the ...


1

Charcoal (if not burned) is forever, more or less (ask an archeologist if you doubt that.) As such I'd have to doubt that cleaning which does not go so far as to remove the charred surface will help, nor will time and weather do much. Linseed oil would be a reasonable approach for a building exterior, though I'd certainly test that before proceeding.


0

Silicone is soluble in vinegar. Try applying some vinegar to the remaining residue with a sponge, waiting 30 minutes or so, then trying to rub it off (perhaps with a stiff brush).


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The panel's material,size and construction are not given. May be it is not properly seasoned wood, so could be defective when machine cut to size too soon and warped on drying as grain is not along length or had ridgalls inside. After some time it might improve with moisture change and aging, but there is no reason to keep panels of demonstrated poor quality ...


4

It means sapwood (lighter colored) is permitted in the grading of the board,so it's not guaranteed to be a full-face of "black" walnut (which is the most common walnut to run into that terminology for.) If the's been steamed, the color may not be all that noticeable, since that migrates color into the sapwood from the heartwood - for air dried there is a ...


0

He's probably right, but you should have someone check it in about 6 months... any painter worth his salt will tell you if it's too soon. This appears to be similar to How long should I wait before painting or staining pressure-treated wood?


1

I'm not sure what preservative-treated means. [Edit: lower in the page it specifically reads "pressure-treated".] Around here, pressure-treated lumber is soaking wet and not suitable for stain/sealer until it's dried at least an entire season. If it's truly kiln-dried, you're free to apply a stain/sealer at any time. To preserve color and prevent surface ...


0

You could also try to darken or lighten the stain slightly. If it has been weathered then the color will have changed. stain a very small patch close to the stain portion of the deck. Darken or lighten the stain to match as close as you can from there. Most of the time you can simply put a little darker stain (i.e. dark walnut.) And to lighten it you can ...


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I would stain the rest of the deck, let it dry fully, and stain the entire deck again. The variation should be minimal at that point.


2

I think there is some confusion going on, pressure treated lumber for ground contact and yard / deck use is a completely different animal than the pressure treated radiata pine product that is used for trim, fascia, and barge rafters. This material is kiln dried and as a contractor since 1989 and a carpenter since 1978 the pressure treated resawn pine is ...


0

The "current plan" is probably what I would do. However, you could probably get away with just using one wedge on the top tread and one on the bottom; that will probably provide enough friction to keep the ramp from sliding off. If it doesn't, I'd add one in the middle.


3

It looks like the answer is "probably not." If this calculator from the American Wood Council is to be believed (and if my assumptions about your materials and load are correct), the max span is about 10ft for a pine 2x6. This table agrees that 10-12ft is the max span for typical grade lumber, at typical spacings, for a 5psf dead load. While your ...


10

You can't figure this out without knowing how many boards your circle will have; once you choose the number of boards, just divide 360 by the number of bevels (one for each end of each board) and that's how far from 90° each end should be. So, if you have 4 boards (a square): 4 * 2 = 8 bevelled ends 360° / 8 = 45° each end should have a 45° bevel on it: ...


0

BAR KEEPERS FRIEND is no joke, make a little paste, use a small paint brush or q-tip to apply directly to the stain. I watched it disappear before my eyes!! My butcher block counter tops are none the wiser! BEST ADVICE EVER!!


5

If the benches that you have are indeed the Norden style of benches from IKEA like this: Then it would be possible to shorten them slightly by cutting an equal amount off of each end if the bench top. Several things to consider when proposing to do this: Some IKEA products are made of a particle board that is veneered with a nice wood face and edges. If ...



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