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In my opinion, it is better in the long run to use concrete footings and concrete piers. You can use pressure-treated but do not use typical pressure treated lumber, you should use something with a treatment rated for ground-contact/in-ground use. The advantage to burying your posts is little to no lateral bracing is needed and it is less work over all. ...


3

I would find it hard to believe that someone would sand a wood floor but then neglect to put a protective finish on it (unless this is a very rustic building like a barn?). It's possible there's varnish there but it's not a glossy type. An unfinished wood floor seems like a negligent decision by the landlord and a bad investment on their part. I would check ...


8

Here's a low-tech method that's worked well for me: Attach a loop of rope around the bottom corners and pull it up in the middle on the outside with your arm going over it and your other arm holding it stable in your armpit.


4

You might find that spending a little time and effort upgrading your 1/4 mile path, potentially even building some small bridges for the water hazards, pays large benefits in the ease of hauling materials to your building site. You could probably also customize a wheelbarrow for the panel-carrying job - ideally starting with one that needs a new pan, or else ...


2

Another traditional approach to reinforcing cracked wood is to install a "butterfly key" (also known as "bowtie key"). This is essentially an inlaid piece that acts as a pair of dovetail joints to tie the two sides together. Keys can be as larger or small as desired, in similar wood or contrasting wood ... the latter is a bit more common since the key's ...


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I just finished my first big stain and poly job, and I didn't like all the scratches that the 220 sandpaper was creating on each layer of polyurethane. Instead of sandpaper I tried cardboard, and it worked great! Got rid of bumps, created a smooth surface, and no scratches.


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1/4" steel flat stock, one under each end, cut to width. With counter sunk holes for short, pan-head lag screws. Fancy installations will have an area routed for this piece, making it flush to the surface. Ideally it runs under the legs, sharing two out of the four fasteners per leg. Sort of like this:


5

The attached pieces and legs may have exacerbated the effects by not moving with the seat but a piece of pine of that size was probably destined to crack regardless. You can try to weep glue down into it (run a line of yellow glue over the crack then blow it down into the void with an air nozzle) and then clamp out the space but it probably won't be ...


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I think that these answers may be right in a small range of specific circumstances, but not right in mine. My plywood pieces had been sitting indoors in a constant environment, with both sides exposed to the same air, and they warped and they stayed warped. If these answers were correct, plywood cabinets and furniture would be writhing around all over the ...


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It could be a table top, from a desk that can be adjusted in tilt. I have seen desks with a goove like this. Tilting the table such that the front edge is lower than the back edge makes it hard to keep pens from rolling off the desk, so the groove serves as a place to keep them. The rounded corners would fit well with this explanation. In this case, the ...


6

Speculation: I'm going to go with it is the panel just behind the drivers seat in a RV that makes a bed and covers the battery and the generator, as it has a fire coating applied by either Almex or Fritz Industries for a recreational vehicle probably manufactured in Canada.


1

Flat sawn (note the cathedral pattern), but more than that? Meh. Likely maple, but there are a bunch of central / south american woods that are cheap and similar in appearance. Definitely not bamboo, which is a monocot, and has a distinctive appearance.


9

That is maple. Plain old, flat sawn rock maple. There's no way to tell from the pictures if its engineered or solid but if you knock on it the sound will tell you. Solid sounds very dull, like knocking on a sidewalk. Engineered hardwood, even if its installed very well, sounds a bit hollow. You might not notice it when you walk across the room but if you tap ...


8

Looking at different images may help you determine the species. Keep in mind I'm not a wood expert, and wood being a natural material will vary widely. Oak Oak tends to have a bold tight grain Ash Ash tends to have a bold semi-tight grain. Hickory Hickory tends to have a more subtle longer grain. Maple Maple tends to have a subtle semi-tight ...


0

Fasten it to the floor. A table designed like this really needs to be secured. Remove the table from its base and attach it to the floor joists with brackets, from the inside (find those joists or it may pull up the flooring). Unless you're going to bevel-in a removable decorative center piece (to allow access inside the pillar and a means to attach the top) ...


1

If the base is hollow and open at the bottom, I would try making it slide around something heavy. Make a concrete block or something that will fit fairly tightly inside the base. Make it a bit shorter than the base to ensure the table goes all the way to the floor. Then when you setup the table you sit the block on the floor, lift up the table and slide ...


0

Solutions in which the table cannot easily move: Make a base plate, as you suggest. But route out a section of your floor and make the base plate closely resemble the floor, then set the whole thing into the routed-out hole. Get several L-shaped brackets and use them to bolt the table to the floor. Ugly. Make the base hollow with a secretly removable ...


1

The usual answer for repeatability is "make a jig". Build a frame out of 2x4s, attach it to the sheet that you want to cut, and then set the base of the circular saw inside the frame. That will give you a very repeatable hole.


0

When I did my deck I preferred to dig down, use a quikrete concrete form to bring it above level, then mount the post to it using hardware. Reason being if something were to happen to the post (rot or need to replace for some reason) it is easier to do it with this method.


1

If you can dig down 4 feet, it's really easy to put a sonotube down and fill it with concrete and put the 6x6 (you might only need 4x4...depends on deck dimensions) on that. source: that's what I did.


2

It works for pole barns, it will work for your deck. However, be careful of the quality and/or treatment of your PT lumber - I've seen pressure treated lumber rot off in the ground despite being pressure treated. I think the thicker sections (such as 6x6) are rather difficult to get throughly treated all the way through. I've seen some pole barns use 3 2x6 ...


1

Some woods, especially softwoods such as pine/fir/spruce, are notorious for taking stain oddly. The usual solution is to "condition" the wood before staining, to reduce absorbancy overall and make them behave more like we would expect. There are products sold specifically for the purpose, or dewaxed shellac can be used. Many discussions of this exist on ...


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Give the area a wipe over so it's slightly damp, then with a very fine paint brush trace the circle with a very fine line of household bleach. Once the stain has faded quickly remove all of the bleach. You may then need to re oil the area.


3

I would just drill pilot holes and screw it together, you don't need to do fancy cuts in the wood. If you need extra stability, put in a diagonal (diagonal cuts all the way across a board are much easier than notching). I would put in a small diagonal brace on each corner, although it would be easier to just use a large one across the whole frame. I built a ...


2

Which way is the 90 degrees connection going? ie are the pieces of wood in the same plane (a flat joint)? If they are, you could use a use a half-lap joint (or perhaps a mitre). Or are the pieces of wood in different planes? This gives you various options for the joint, for example: Rebated joint. Mitre Biscuit joint (possibly also with a mitre) Box / ...


4

How do I connect [1x4 wood] together at 90 degrees while maintaining a solid connection? If you can obtain a hand-saw (e.g. tenon-saw/back-saw), some sandpaper and some wood glue, you can make lap-joints. I find they are the easiest way for me to make rigid joints in wood. To join wood the other way, for a strong joint I'd try a simple finger joint ...


2

There's a good product that I have used before called 'Ronseal Multipurpose Wood Filler Tub - Dark' you can pick it up for about £6 from the likes of Homebase etc. It gives a nice finish to fill the wood cracks and it dries dark. Can also be used for exterior furniture


4

In many cases that is epoxy, mixed with lamp black or another colorant. (There are tints which can be used to more closely match the color of the surrounding wood, but in fact black usually looks pretty reasonable.)


0

Securely screw your mounting hardware into something structural, and it's unlikely you'll "break the wall" unless you're planning on piling thousands of kilograms on your table. If your structure is made of wood, make sure you screw into the framing members with long screws. Don't just screw into the drywall or plaster, which are not capable of bearing much ...



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