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You might try sanding it very lightly with 240 grit sandpaper, then staining it with a light colored stain pen Buy two or three shades and start with the lightest color. Finish it with a wipe on polyurethane (the picture looks like a satin finish) Images and links for illustration only, not an endorsement of particular goods or sources.


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I would "brighten" the bleached area with an oxalic acid based cleaner/brightner, frequently the base chemical in deck cleaners. Neutralize with a base, like baking soda. Once dry, try a dye or a pigmented stain. If the color is close, seal it with a similar finish, typically a satin polyurethane.


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I would suggest a quick visit to any building supply recycling type place near you to see if you can simply grab an inexpensive replacement door that's already better suited to installing a pet-door in - you may have structural issues with this door if you cut away a significant part of the bottom to insert a pet door. Replacing glass panels with wood is not ...


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The idea of removing the glass and replacing with wood is reasonably practical. Since the glass is relatively thin you would need to replace with a relatively thin wood piece. I would think that 1/4" or maybe 3/8" thick plywood would be able to be used in place of the glass. There are a number of things to consider though before embarking on this approach. ...


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You can use truck bed liner, have it applied by a shop that can adjust the texture for you. There are two kinds of applications, hot and cold. From what I understand, cold can allow for smoother coats, as it takes longer to set. I'm sure you could do it yourself, but I've seen so many botched jobs. If you do pursue that route, take a look at Raptor ...


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When using Oxalic acid, which usually comes in a dry crystal form, mix it with hot water, as hot as you dare, reading the labels for mix ratios. I mix it a bit stronger than they say, but that is me, I do stuff like that. You are new to this I don't recommend you do that, stick to the directions. While the mix is hot, pour it on the floor the same way the ...


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Sanding with or against the grain doesn't matter much until the last sanding stage, if that. Lots of us use random-orbit sanders which sand in all directions at once, and that works Just Fine. The first sanding pass, with the coarsest grit sandpaper, does most of the work of levelling the surface; ideally, it should leave you with no scratches larger than ...


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If you use long enough lags to get a good bite into the stud, your first proposed method should be fine. If the "lever" action is high enough to snap a lag bolt, then it will be strong enough to snap the 2x3 as well. From a strength perspective, it doesn't matter how long the lag bolt is - the torque and shear at the junction of the wall/bracket interface ...


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Well, you could form the skirting directly out of plaster, but that would only fulfill the "appearance" and not the "function" (such as it is) of the skirting board. And for most of us that would be more "messy" than "elegant", though the real plaster pros can do very elegant things in the high side of the wall for moldings that won't see the abuse a ...


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Yes this is no big deal. Given that you might want to glue them anyway to reduce squeaking. If you have big glue pieces hit it with a putty knife but don't need to spend a ton of time on it.



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