New answers tagged wood
1
You shouldn't need to strip unless you scratched through to wood.
The problem with polyurethanes is that they are hard films that don't blend with the previous coat. Other finishes will 'melt into" the previous one (lacquer, shellac, tung oil)
Your sanding, @220, was too aggressive. Intercoat sands should be at 320 - 400.
You will have to sand back to a ...
2
Scrape off all the old adhesives then use Liquid Nails on the back. Pre-drill, countersink, and screw it into the door. You can use caulk, liquid nails, or wood filler to fill in over screw holes and then re-prime and paint.
3
Oxalic acid, either in crystal form or as part of a pressure treated deck cleaner/brightner will chemically dissolve the stain. If you use the crystals, use all normal precautions for acids (eye, hand, clothing). You can sparingly apply with a small nylon artists brush. Try 5 min increments (5 on, wipe off, 10 on, wipe off) until the stain starts to ...
6
They make several styles of tools that are made specifically for getting nails out. One tool called a "cats paw" looks like the picture below. (You may find similar tool under other localized names). A hammer is used to pound the hooked end in under the nail head so that it can then be levered out.
Another type of nail puller is also very effective in ...
3
Pivot hinges would be an economical solution for good weight bearing. You have to provide a solid top pivot point.
This Stanley has 150 lbs capacity. There are many others of this type, ranging up to 1000 lbs.
Used by all secret bookcase doors.
0
For the first few corners you need to cut the nails in half once you have them out a little. Dremel tool with a diamond bit might work. If you pull them out too much they do crack.
2
The condition you outline is not uncommon. It usually results from humidity changes. Typically, the tolerances were a bit too tight when the house was built, not exactly squared or the door framing was not secured as tightly as it should have been.
Here are a couple of things you can do now to mitigate the problems.
Replace the center screw of each hinge ...
1
No it is not dangerous to build houses with treated wood. However treated wood will need different braces and fasteners to prevent rust. Also treated wood has a lower load rating than non treated.
Wood is chemically treated for moisture resistance or for fire prevention. If your house doesn't have excessive moisture or fire issues it probably does not ...
1
Plywood will not sag over time if you intend to use it for the door faces. I recommend birch plywood for not only its hardness but looks. However your hinges and what they are attached to are the big concern in this project. It looks like you've used a low grade pine to build the unit. This is a soft wood and a couple of cabinet hinges screwed into this are ...
2
I think plywood would make a good backing for the doors. I would use something with better quality though and not 1/8 " thin junk or "masonite" type products. My take would be to use two layers of 1/4 inch material. One layer can be screwed through the face into the shelves to make a very sturdy structure. The other can then be glued to the first with the ...
1
I don't think splitting the doors vertically will make any difference: you'll be cutting the load in half, but also cutting in half the amount of support and the number of hinges. I wouldn't bother.
By the way, you should be careful about the balance of the shelf. If sounds like you're going to be filling the door shelves with DVDs just like the main ...
2
I'm curious to know how much a door full of DVDs would weight. I calculate about 60lbs for 9 shelves with 15" inches of DVDs per shelf, 2 DVDs per inch, and .21 lbs per DVD (3.2 oz). And then the weight of door+shelving itself.
There are no cabinet hinges of any design that I know of that will carry that weight. Even half that total weight, say 30lbs DVD ...
3
Ply is good in shear, helping the door from racking.
I would use euro style hinges, meant for frameless cabinets. They will transfer the door weight better than simple butt hinges. They also have 3 way adjustments for compensating for sagging over time. Just be sure to start out with a good gap and room for the hinge to adjust up.
0
There are many finishes that work, but many wear and are rotted over time by the contact with the wet soil and roots. If you use any cyanoacrylate glue (superglue) as a finish it'll do that. It's waterproof, strong and cheap. I use it to finish my pistol grips. The ones I have on my personal carry pistol I have had for 4 years, never refinished since the ...
10
I'd make a template in the shape of a square donut out of 1/2" plywood by using a table saw to cut out the square hole in the 1/2" plywood. For example, if ...
i) the recess in the desktop needs to be 8"x12"
ii) the diameter of the base of the router is 6"
iii) the diameter of the router bit is 1/2"
... then I'd ...
1) start with a rectangular piece ...
0
Can't tell what sort of varnish, if any, is on there, but it looks like it's come off in the worn places you care about anyway. Without a complete refinish job, you can try touching up much of the damage you picture with a swab that's been dipped in a dark oak (or red oak) stain. Just put a little stain in the places the finish is gone, wait 20 min. and wipe ...
1
I agree with Steven that a router is the way to go. However, I think it important to point out a few things to consider if you use a router for the project you described, especially if you have never used a router before.
First off, you shouldn't try to cut the full depth of the pockets you describe in a single pass. You will need to make several passes, ...
3
The tool you are looking for is a Router:
If going the manual route, chisels would do the job too:
1
For goodness sake - use a handsaw!
And if it sticks a little rub some candle wax on the blade.
3
Yes, the problems you mention are possible if you try to advance the jigsaw too aggressively and even with thinner materials. Just don't advance it too fast and especially don't force on the jigsaw and it'll be fine although rather slow.
The other side is that those 10cm blades are rather expensive and you might be much better off just using a handsaw for ...
0
I used adjustable shelving to build my standing desk. I didn't want to commit whole hog to standing, so this let me have the option of lowering it later if I wanted. After your feet adjust in the first month, it's awesome.
I have an 18" bracket for a 24" shelf counter. I have a second smaller bracket with a shelf for the monitor, since you want the ...
1
Alternative 1 - These type of designs are popular in europe. I have seen it in France. You will need some strong triangle brackets for the bottom. This will keep the back level.
Then you need to drill some holes on the front of the desk. You will need to then buy thick guage wire. You knot it off on the bottom - tie it to an end cap. On the top you ...
3
L Brackets are not going to be a good idea for this type of project. As a minumum you will need to have a triangle type bracket - if you can find something large enough. If you want to avoid any type of legs right at the front edge you could build your own equivalent of a triangle bracket out of wood.
If I was setting out to make a built in unit mounted ...
1
That's a pretty heavy table top to cantilever. I'd think about attaching a 2x4 ledger to the wall. That's a horizontal 2x4 screwed directly to the studs.
Then, I'd put 2x4s vertically, between the ledger and the floor at every other stud. Depending on the length of the desk, you could go every 3 in the middle to create some chair space.
I'd use these ...
1
Based on your sketch in the link, I would just nail or screw them together. It would more than suffice.
0
I would suggest using a top and bottom rail of 4 * 2 and make the uprights from large diameter dowel (think broom handle). This should be more than strong enough for your needs and much lighter.
1
I agree with your contractor that it is not necessary.
In fact it would be better if you don't, in my opinion.
If it is not directly exposed to moisture or UV from the sun I would prefer to leave it uncoated so if it does absorb some moisture it will dry out more quickly, prolonging it's life.
7
You don't have to worry about joining 2x4s so they will be strong. I made the simplest possible bike rack by butting them together and nailing them. It's not at all sophisticated but it is easy to build and strong enough to do the job.
I happened to have some scrap lumber, consisting of two 6-foot boards and many 30-inch pieces. The two 6-foot boards ...
1
You can seal the wood after it is framed. Do you need to? No. Would the framing last longer? Probably. Does it make sense to do this?
if you like to spend a little extra money on frivolous things...
if you feel like that there is no one monitoring the house during parts of the year. Obviously it had access to moisture because it was a balcony. So ...
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