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8

If the wood is prone to splitting, it'll still split when you don't drill pilot holes, impact drill or not.


7

Cedar shingles do not need paint. Without paint, they last a very long time with almost no maintenance. As soon as you paint them, you are climbing on a maintenance treadmill of having to scrape and repaint them that you'd avoid by letting them attain a natural brown where dry, gray where wet appearance as they weather. If you have issues with the natural ...


4

I would avoid any interference with a load-bearing beam (which you do well to point out). Drilling holes -or space for a receptacle- will surely make it more fragile. Instead of that, the option of switching the switches from one side of the wall to the opposite side may be attractive. Basically, you would need to disconnect and take out the switches from ...


3

This table top can be sanded down to fresh wood surface to accept a new finish. That is unless the burn mark is quite deep. Sanding out a deep burn mark could end up leaving a depression in that part of the table surface unless you would aggressively sand most the rest of the surface the same amount. Refinishing to still show the wood grain as present ...


3

LVL is laminated veneer lumber. The numbers 1.9 and 2.0 refer to the Modulus of Elasticity which is a measure of the stiffness of the beam. I would seriously doubt that there is any meaningful difference between 1.9 and 2.0 rated beams.


2

Pre-drilling is not just about wood-splitting. It fundamentally changes the nature of the joint. Take the example of screwing decking to joists. If you were to pre-drill the deck board so the hole was WIDER than the screw but the screw is allowed to bite into the joist. The joint becomes much like a nut-and-bolt where the entire joint is held in place by ...


2

White or yellow PVA (Poly Vinyl Acetate) wood glue (elmers/titebond) and some new wood. Gluing in a few toothpicks is one method; drilling out the hole and gluing in a section of dowel is another.


1

To fix the damage, you would need to sand down the entire table evenly to prevent creating dips in certain areas from over sanding in one area. I would suggest starting with an electric palm sander with 40 or 50 grit paper and sand the entire surface until the damage is removed. The table looks like it will be thick enough to do that. If you aren't ...


1

Marek's answer is what I'd expect to do. Thin In order to make the result a lot thinner than 10cm, what you can do is to use thinner support wood on the walls. Since the load is vertical you don't need substantial lumber there. I would also look into reducing the thickness of your pallet wood - you are only interested in the surface appearance and it ...


1

Your question is concerning two things: 1. Proper fitting (wood planks to masonry wall). 2. Proper wood treatment (anti-moisture). So that's how will my answer look like. Let's look at this. 1. Proper fitting. I would advise preparing additional support planks going vertically with - say - 1 meter space (that spacing requires additional insight on how ...


1

That wire wheel might help if there are nooks and crannys, like fine detail. But I am afraid what you will need is a lot of elbow grease and sandpaper. Starting with coarse and working down to fine, using steel wool and/or wire bushes for the detail work. Good quality chemical strippers are helpful if you are able to cope with the mess/smell/health hazards. ...


1

Most oil-based deck stains need at least 24 hours of dry time. High humidity and/or low temperatures will increase that time, so will over-applying the stain. I would not apply it unless I was fairly confident that I had at least 48 hours with no rain. Better to wait.


1

The reason the hole is drilled is to remove excess material so that when the screw bites in, it does not rip the wood (or whatever) apart. It's simple physics. When the screw does in, if there is no hole, then the wood volume occupied by the shank of the screw is displaced. Where do you think that wood goes? Outer space? Forcing screws into wood using an ...


1

If those refinished stair treads are a common type type of hardwood such as oak, maple or beech you can get 1/4 inch thick plywood with an hardwood veneer on one or both sides. Looks like one sheet of the material would be more than enough to to make your riser skins. Precut the pieces to fit without fastening right away. When you cut them you will want ...



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