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8

The go-to materials for outdoor construction are cedar and pressure treated wood. Many prefer cedar, and most kits you see from big box stores and other sources use it. It is generally more expensive, but it is lighter and softer (for drilling and hammering). It will last for a number of years untreated, and even longer if it is pre-treated with penetrating ...


6

There is no evidence that modern pressure treated wood presents any risk to children (after all, we're using the newer treatments instead of CCA precisely because of concerns about risks to children). The treatments use ingredients with low toxicity to humans, bind well to the wood, and are easily excreted (so they won't build up with continued exposure). ...


5

Doesn't make any difference, really; the question is number of coats per surface, not order they're applied in. The thing to watch out for is that there will be a tendency for drips to run down the edges and onto the other face. You may want to use masking tape or other techniques to guard against that, though going with multiple thin coats rather than ...


3

Use a biscuit joiner. Then glue and clamp to dry. But depends what you using them for. There not going to be heaps strong if the timber spands over a distance.


3

I've used the steel wool + vinegar method before*. It's essentially a stain so really only affects the surface layer. It shouldn't have any meaningful affect on the strength of the piece of wood. Splitting and warping is related to moisture and drying so wouldn't really be affecting by weathering stain. After you weather it, note that most any additional ...


3

Yes you absolutely need to treat spruce and pine with something or they will weather and splinter ferociously. You've got two basic options 1: a protective finish such as a varnish or polyurethane or 2: a penetrative sealer like linsead oil, water sealer, etc. Both have merits and weaknesses but either properly applied will get the job done. More important ...


2

From what you are describing you are using the wrong drill bit or not applying sufficient pressure. Make sure you have the right # drill bit for the screws. The wrong bit will strip the heads making it difficult to extract or to drive the screws further in. If you are using the right drill bit, stand directly over the screw and apply sufficient pressure ...


2

It's possible-but-unlikely that there's nothing on them. Most likely they were done with a penetrating oil finish, - tung, walnut or linseed oils, or in the most minimal, least-color-changing but non-hardening realm, mineral oil. You could use any of those (use BOILED linseed oil inside, or else that never hardens, either) again, though linseed and tung ...


2

Top, then bottom, then top, then bottom will greatly reduce the odds of the board warping due to differential moisture uptake/release when one surface is sealed and the other is open to the air. While the acrylic paint is sealing it somewhat, the conventional wisdom of long experience is to try and keep the number of coats per side the same to prevent (or at ...


1

If you're joining two pieces of wood along the length of the grain, the glue bond can be stronger than the wood itself. Butt joints are the exact opposite. If you need to join two grain ends, you'll want to reinforce it with biscuits or dowels (or possibly something even fancier like dovetails). Without knowing what you're attempting to make, my suggestion ...


1

The right way: buy a bigger piece of wood. For very limited, low-stress uses, the biscuit joiner as mentioned by @Nathan might work well enough - as might a Tongue and groove joint, double-groove and spline joint, or lap joint. While a scarf joint (various types are available) is strong, with such short pieces of wood you probably don't have enough wood in ...


1

The purpose of the solvent is to not remove but redistribute the stain that is already applied, although it will remove some of it. It will not remove what has penetrated into the grain of the wood, but it will lighten it. The solvent may even push it deeper into the grain, and that is ok too. You can sand your project at this point, the scratches will ...


1

If you're feeling adventurous you could try spraying on a tinted top coat, that way you could achieve the ebony(ish) color and preserve the grain pattern. Its a tricky technique and it must be sprayed but it can be done. There are a few variations but in general you add 10-20% dye stain to a finish like urethane or lacquer and spray on enough coats to get ...


1

First a disclaimer: You should follow all local by-laws and building codes in your area relating to mold mitigation/abatement to avoid lawsuits and painful death. Having said that, since your probably going to handle it yourself anyway, here's what to do. The top picture does look like classic black mold but the other two look like a factory sealant of some ...


1

I would recommend an oil based satin wipe-on poly. I like Watco. It will give you the same look as tung oil but give you better protection, easier clean up in the future, and on something like oak it will be easier to apply (oils tend to weep back out of the pores as they dry which you will have to wipe off several times). Wipe-ons are the same thing as ...


1

Congrats on your first project! I understand your concern. Stains don't offer wood protection so a top coat is advised especially if it is for an outdoor table. I used a spray once and was disappointed, so my background is with a can. But I would suggest a foam brush, they are cheap, can be tossed afterward and when applied correctly they don’t leave ...


1

Lots of other good tips provided as answers so far, but the one thing no one has mentioned is that a drill is actually the wrong tool to use for driving screws. Sure, they work and lots of people use them, but the best tool to use would be an impact driver: An impact driver has much higher torque than a drill does, and rather than using a twisting motion ...


1

Try replacing your loose screws with Torx head screws, which are much more resistant to stripping: By design, Torx head screws resist cam-out better than Phillips head or slot head screws. Where Phillips heads were designed to cause the driver to cam out, to prevent overtightening, Torx heads were designed to prevent cam-out. These screws are also ...


1

Some tips Use the correct sized bit for the screw head. This really makes a huge difference. Some bits are much more accurately made than others. Buy a new one. Lubricate the screw. I have a tin of automotive grease I use for this but I've read you should use petroleum jelly (e.g. Vaseline). This quick and easy to do, just dip the srew before inserting. ...


1

I gave a lot of thought to this, having two young grandchildren. I was going to build a playset but now will just start with a zipline and slackline; which I have to build towers for, as I have no trees. Anyway, depending on the size you want there are some very economical plastic semi-spheres out there. I would not use any sort of wood for any of the ...


1

At that length and with a decent thickness (>=1 1/2") you'd probably be fine just using a solid wood plank as long as the species is appropriate. Here's a chart of the modulus of elasticity for some common woods http://www.woodworkweb.com/woodwork-topics/wood/146-wood-strengths.html To be honest, when designing something like a staircase you should really ...


1

No UC code could mean two things: either it was ripped off on purpose, or by accident, or its UC code is so low it doesn't rate to be classified (garbage). UC codes are "usage categories", running from UC1 (the lowest) to UC5 (the highest). But the UC code is only half of it. A UC code must be matched to the retention rating of the chemical injected into ...



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