Tag Info

Hot answers tagged

10

When you apply multiple coats of urethane, any dust or small flaws will be amplified with each new coat. If you want the smoothest finish possible, then wait until it is dry, very lightly sand with very fine paper (220 or finer) to remove any dust bumps, wipe it clean with a slightly damp cloth or tact rag, let it dry or buff it dry with a dry cloth, then ...


7

It can be a problem when drying conditions are too fast for the finish to release the bubbles. Here are some strategies to try. Good quality brush, china bristle (boar) for oil Slight thinning (up to 10%). Drying extenders (retarders): Floetrol for latex, Penetrol for oil based paints and stains Don't shake your finish, stir only (to prevent mixing ...


5

I generally spray-finish when I want to have a true satin sheen. I find that it's much easier to manage the application when I'm trying for a Satin finish, even if I'm just using a rattlecan, especially for the final coat. I might just suck with a brush, but I tend to find that I leave either brush strokes, tiny bubbles, or areas of uneven thickness that ...


5

I have a similar workbench but instead of finishing it, I screwed down (no glue) two layers of hardboard. It's cheap so I don't mind dinging it up and since it's only screwed down, it'll be easy to replace when it gets too dinged up.


5

After looking at your links, it appears you have purchased an unfinished wood top. It will need some sort of finish. You have a couple of choices, oil or a hard finish. Oil finishes on raw wood will help keep the surface from staining and make them repel water. Oils can often deepen the color or actually alter the color as it ages. Oils need to be reapplied ...


4

The epoxy glaze you cited is what us old timers used to call casting resin. We use it on bar tops to give good gloss and a hard finish. Sounds like a good choice to me, but several coats of good oil based urethane will also give you good results. Good Luck


3

It seems like a new finish of any kind is going to be somewhat at odds with a weathered, distressed look. That said... A water based urethane finish should change the color less than an oil based one, but there will still be a change. A final coat of satin sheen finish over the initial coats might be simpler than the steel wool and less likely to change ...


3

At 100 years old, there's a good chance that the finish on that piano is Shellac. The stuff can get sticky over time. As the linked article points out, the stuff is soluble in alcohol. I've use a cloth soaked in denatured ethanol to swab away sticky spots on a few of my hundred year old oak doors. Doing so gently, not scrubbing so hard so as to remove all ...


3

It's all about adhesion. When you recoat after 2 hours you get a chemical bond between layers. If you let it go longer than that, you need to wait 24 hours so it's hard enough to sand and get a mechanical bond. I sand before the final layer. That gets it smooth without danger of sanding through.


2

If you're using a varnish and a paintbrush it's fairly common. You can apply varnish or oil with a rag and that will cut down on the bubbles but they aren't a big issue most of the time.


2

I've used spar urethane for this purpose. Be aware, though, that it will outgas for a long time if you don't expose it to the sun.


2

A trip to the hire shop is in order. One floor sander and an edge sander. A selection of medium and fine grit belts-the hire shop will probably credit you for unused materials. Get all the windows open and wipe the floor over with isopropyl alcohol to remove as much old wax as possible, this will save a lot of clogging of the sanding medium. First sand ...


2

I hate to be critical of other contractors, but from the clues you have given in your question, I think I know what happened. First, pine is a much softer wood than oak and needs to be sanded very smooth before the first coat of urethane. The first coat raises the grain of the pine and almost always is somewhat rough regardless of how good the initial prep ...


2

Yes, by all means. You might want to test a spot (not for "will it work" - it will - but for any possible color issues.) As for what you have read, consider it an opinion, nothing more - if you like what you have, boiled linseed is just fine. Apart from some potential risk to tree nut allergy sufferers, walnut oil also works nicely and is a drying oil. ...


2

All exterior wood finishes that are "suitable for sun exposure" still slowly degrade in the sun (it's worse than water, actually) and need to be renewed - Just ask the folks with wooden boats. So whether or not the current finish is "weather resistant" (since "weather proof" is not really accurate) it will need to be renewed. The simplest approach is to ...


2

UV light is actually probably a bigger concern than water. All but the most delicate finishes will provide decent water resistance, but UV light will break down anything not specifically designed for it. An exterior door should be finished with something outdoor-rated, like spar varnish. I'm not sure there's any way for you to tell by looking at it, but ...


2

We just put two coats of a Varathane Floor Finish over a painted floor. It's Satin, and suitable for wood as well. It might be worth considering, because 1) we had zero color change (even over metallic and multi-tonal base) and 2) the satin actually looks flat on our floor.


2

I found that thinning was the key - had to experiment a little but once I got used to it the results where very good.I would go so far as to say that almost nothing can go from the can to the project some kind of thinning or cutting back on product is essential .


1

Most likely you have spots of contamination such as oil or wax impregnated into the wood. As much as you may not want to hear this, I fear you may need to strip the table top again and sand the surface more completely. When the surface is clean and sanded, you can mist the surface with a little water to see if any areas repel the water. Don't let the water ...


1

As far as I know doors don't have a weather rating - they do have a fire rating and sometimes have a rating for insulation. Since you have a varnish I am assuming you have a wood door. How well it stands up to the weather depends on how well you small porch shelters it, the outer coating, the type of wood, and if it is solid or not. If it is a solid ...


1

One possibility is that he sanded the 2nd coat and then applied the third coat without adequately cleaning the sanding dust off. Another possibility is that he used too rough a sanding which would produced a lot of scratches in the coat.


1

As @bib says in his comment, the purpose of the finish is really dependent on what the wood is being used for. Most wood finishes will provided at least a little protection from drying and abrasion, but other than that it's really application specific. (By the way you use the word "varnish", which is a specific category of wood finishes, but there are many ...


1

Generally speaking, varnish makes the wood look pretty and shiny and protects it from water although the protection is not perfect. A much better explanation can be found in the book Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner. It has been through several editions so your local public library should have a copy. He debunks a lot of myths and is pretty ...


1

There are a number of solvents out there that will remove that with no more effort than applying it to the spot. I use lacquer thinner for many problem spots, Goof-off may work, Goo-be-gone, things of that nature that will not even begin to harm the stainless steel. Do not use a steel wool pad!!!! Or anything of that nature, a solvent will do it. To try ...


1

Actually, 'Pumpkin pine' IS (or can be) a natural, aged color of pine. Painting is the easiest recourse. Formby's or similar 'refinisher' will strip wood (of varnishes) and leave some patina, after which, a wood bleach (an oxalic acid based, like Savogran wood bleach) would be called for. Then, sand and coat with a u/v blocking clear finish. Repeat in ...


1

One answer points out the gold standard - inserting a plug or patch of exactly matching wood. YES. (But hard.) Several answers point out using fillers stained to come as close as possible to match the wood. (Practical, but usually far from invisible.) A major problem is the grain. One solution is to fill and stain as close as possible. Then tease up the ...


1

Pre finish: Filling with sawdust and carpenters glue (PVA) is the standard. It has the drawback of not accepting stain evenly. Hardening putties can be blended for color match (don't fully blend them for a more natural look). I doubt either technique will look good under an oil finish. A film finish (varnish, urethanes) would look better. Post Finish: ...


1

I find that the bubble almost always disappear during the drying process. Don't pop them.


1

If you are cleaning something that can be washed, you can neutralize the pH with water. After using HCl on bricks, I would just hose them off. The acid will become very dilute quickly. pH just measures the concentration of hydrogen ions in a solution, so if you add a bunch of water (neutral pH) the pH will approach neutral. I also don't think you need to ...



Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible