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0

The timer I have has a black, red and green wire. The feed coming thru the box has only a red and white wire. The timer manufacturer is Defiant. Can I install this timer?


2

The wire that "loops" between the two switches is the hot wire from the power source. This is the same as having a single wire with 2 pig tails that connect to each switch. Since you're replacing two single-pole single-throw (SPST) switches with two of the same types, all you need to do is replace them with the exact same wiring that currently exists. ...


1

You want to break the connecting tabs off the receptacle (bend back and forth with needle nose pliers until metal fatigue causes them to break off), then just wire one plug to always be hot, and feed the other one through a switch:


1

One option is to use a single gang mud ring for double gang box. you can get metal or plastic ones.


0

You can definitely get deeper boxes, and you can also get box extenders, but at some point you'll be limited by the depth of your walls and you'll need to use double-gang boxes to get more room. Since you commented that you're using a separate GFCI for each fish tank, I presume that you're pigtailing the wires through the boxes, and not feeding downstream ...


0

First, thanks for the timely responses and information. I learned much from you all. In the end, I just connected the wires as I mentioned above and everything worked, including the lights. Again, thanks.


0

You can't run power cords through/inside the wall, so you'll have to install a receptacle behind the TV and fireplace. You can run nonmetallic sheathed cable (romex) inside the wall, so there should be no problem running it from the receptacle through the wall and to the dimmer.


0

That brown plastic is likely bakelite which was invented in 1907. It is unlikely it was installed when the house was built: I don't think electrical boxes were much in use until a little later, like the 1920s. Use care around it: it is brittle. The lack of electrical tape (probably) means the work was done sometime after the mid-1950s. Since then it is ...


1

The numbers are almost certainly a courtesy from the previous electrician -- odds are that the other end of each wire carries the same number, so if you have all the electrical boxes open you can confirm how things are connected without having to trace everything electrically. They may also correspond to that original electrician's notes on how this was ...


7

3M Scotchlok's would work for this application. They too would require a trip to a store, but the nice part is you don't need to strip the wire as they are self-piercing. They can connect two or three wires, and are filled with a sealant to provide moisture resistance. They are typically used for Telco wiring, but support wire gauge from 26-19AWG.


0

As mentioned, crimp connectors are the way to go. If they will be used outdoors, I suggest either putting some dielectric grease inside the butt connectors or using some kind of sealing heatshrink tubing around the connector to help prevent corrosion.


2

Get a meter. Set it to measure Volts, AC, in the 250 v range. Stick one probe into the short side of the upper outlet, and the other in the short side of the lower outlet. If it reads ~240 volts, then this is a split outlet, that is both outlets are on separate breakers, and the neutral is shared. This is old code, and was done so you can plug in both ...


4

I think @bib's suggestion of a crimp connector is the best way to go. If it was a 120V line outside, you should use a heat shrink crimp connector, but for low voltage this is optional (but still a good idea to prevent corrosion). The only other alternative I can think of that I'd consider is soldering the wires together, and sealing the connection in a ...


3

Consider crimp connectors While these are best used with a crimping tool, they can be set using a conventional or needlenose plier. Images and links are for illustration only, not an endorsement of goods or sources.


1

As I understand, the capping was used to protect cables from being sliced by a plasterer's trowel when wet plastering over them. For the (nominal) cost of them, I'd use capping if the wall was to be wet plastered. (Plus, though it's not always easy, it does give you a chance to re-cable if that ever becomes required in the future). If the wall was to be ...


0

A ground wire needs to be connected to the ground bar in the breaker panel where the branch circuit originates. If you have only hot&neutral leaving the breaker panel, and then further on the circuit someone used Romex with ground to extend a circuit, you will need to run additional wire to ensure that the receptacle is truly grounded and not just wired ...


1

You say "that room". Circuits are not nearly always designated to one room or area. Many, many times a room will have some devices on one circuit while others on another circuit. It is pretty rare that rooms are strictly wired so that one circuit distinctly feeds one room. Also, panel directories are not always extremely accurate. So something that says the ...


1

As long as the wire is sound and is joined old and new properly, i.e., not just twisted together but secured with a twist lock or crimp connector it meets code and is fine. Consider that the hot and neutral is already joined there so the ground connection does not degrade that circuit and is quite proper. That said - anytime you can replace old wiring with ...


0

Yes you can, but the proper thing to do would be to run a whole new cable from the panel to that first box. If you can do it with a ground wire it is not much harder or more expensive to do it right with a new cable.


1

What you have is NOT legal and really should be corrected. You CANNOT have general use lighting and receptacles on 30A circuits, even with #10 wire. You also do need a means of disconnect at a detached structure. You can use this feed to power a 30A-120/240V sub-panel using a tied two-pole 30A breaker in the main panel. This is only true if there are two ...


4

And here is why you check it before hand, even though you have turned off that room. People get into Junction boxes and re-wire - joining two separate circuits into one - in that case one circuit in the house can be fed from two breakers (as long as they are on the same phase). Always check with testor - and NOT JUST a proximity induction testor - but an ...


0

NO, NO, NO. The size of the breaker is matched to the size of the wire it is connected onto. I will assume that the two 30 amp breakers are in tandem and thus to two phases of your panel thus they represent 30 amps on two legs for a 220 V circuit. Thus - 30 amp max 220V or 60 Amps TOTAL amps at 110V (30 on each leg). Usually this type of setup would be run ...


1

Yes. Once you shut off the room fuse, no electricity will be going to that room. However it is important to test all connections before working on them so you are positive that they are not powered.


5

Motors often have a surge load at startup which is much higher than their running load. If they've gone to the trouble of specifying this, I highly recommend taking their word for it.


1

SWM splitters aren't really splitters, they're active (powered) switches. The power is applied to the cable on the input side. Here's a page on how they work: http://www.spectrumspot.com/solutions/swm-kit.html No harm to try, but I doubt it will work for you. Passive splitters are fine if the runs from the splitter to the TV are short, and they're ...


1

This is assumes we're talking a screw in bulb socket like a medium base A26. You can adapt the below for other socket types. The first thing to do is test the socket itself. Best way to do this is to use a multi-meter set to AC and an appropriate voltage setting for your supply voltage. Using the test leads, touch the bottom pin and the metal of the base ...


3

If you use a spacer the inset must be equal to or less than 1/4 of an inch to be NEC compliant. See this question for relevant information: How do I extend outlets after installing a backsplash? Personally, I would just get a box extender like the one in the answer to the question above. They are fairly cheap and better by design (in my opinion).


1

I have used a plastic spacer from a Mechano set on the screws that holds the receptacle in the work box. That one was about 1/4 inch by 1/4 round. They look like this although the one in the picture is not the same size.


1

If you want a single control to do this, look at multi-position rotary or slide switches. It's fairly common to have a switch that connects a common to two outputs (let's call them A and B) and gives you the choices off, A only, A and B, or B only. Variants which drop one of those options are also readily available. Switches of this sort are often seen in ...


0

My wife bought a good quality ceiling light with 12 individual lights. I bought a trailing edge dimmer, but I found that the lights started to flicker after about 20 minutes. I carried out various fault finding with no success. I eventually contacted THORN who made the dimmer switch and they told me that it was probably a design issue and that they would ...


0

Simple rectifier is 4 diodes one from each AC line to the positive input of the LED and two from the negative output of the LED to each of the AC lines. (4) 1N4007 diodes will do just fine for this. Just wire two up together on one end and the other two the opposite way like and in and out Y and attach to each end of the diode(s) the other ends mate up ...


2

Check to see what is in the ceiling fan box. Sounds like when the ceiling fan got ripped out, it ripped out the wire nuts that connected it. If this was the first light on the circuit, then there were probably 3 wires in each wire nut -- source, lamp, and next light on circuit. If you disconnected the source->next wires, it would explain your problem.


0

This is just a guess...a big guess. Touch modules work by static electricity jolts. This is why a close lightening bolt can activate them! I don't know code for amorflex, but check to see if the metal case is grounded properly AND continuously. My guess (again, a big guess) is the neutral is finding a path to the metal shield someplace besides at the ...


0

There must be a fault in the down stream load wires someplace. This fault is causing an imbalance detection by the GFI between the current in the LINE and NEUTRAL load wires. Things you can try: Disconnect the wires that feed the down stream outlets at those outlets and the wires to the lamp circuit. This should include unplugging anything that may be ...


1

Is it safe to pigtail from 10 gauge down to 12 gauge? Yes, as long as you are not exceeding the power limits of the 12 gauge wiring or the receptacles. For those who may need a simple example, we do this all of the time - The house itself receives power from 0 gauge wire into the distribution box, and from there we put in an appropriate sized breaker, and ...


1

It wont hurt a thing, but it's a pain. (To run) Return it for smaller, and have some $ left over for fixtures. If you cant return it, I would use it on outlets/receptacles not lights. Use for longest runs first.


4

Yes, since #10 wire can handle more amperage than #12, #10 wire would be a suitable substitute for #12. However, since #10 is larger and less flexible than #12, you may have a wiring device or junction box space issue.


0

You would appear to have the lights connected to BOTH the dimmer and the fan switch. Presumably this means that things are not really wired the way they were before. You'll need to figure out where this happened and correct it; it's difficult to speculate from afar, but when you get beyond what you can sort out yourself, call in a pro.


8

No, and if this represents your level of electrical savvy, hire an electrician BEFORE you burn down your old house, old barn etc. When you say "the two 120V wires coming from the fuse box" I'm going to have to assume that you know nothing about how the US electrical system works, and have not bothered to educate yourself on it before deciding that running a ...


0

1 white which is hot, and 2 greys which are hot...the switch is on 2 seperate breakers. This means that: new switch it only has 1 common hook up, then 3 other connectors on the otherside. The new switch will NOT work here. You cannot feed from "2 separate breakers" to "1 common hookup" - you need a different switch that more closely matches the ...


1

The analogy used in the book compares electric delivery to water delivery The water analogy can be useful to understand simple DC circuits like a battery-powered torch with an incandescent bulb and a switch. It isn't so helpful with AC electricity as found in home electrical outlets (wall sockets). AC electricity reverses it's direction 50 or 60 times ...


0

When nothing is plugged in to a receptacle, there's not a complete circuit. The "hot" wire is connected to one side, and the "neutral" is connected to the other, but there's no path for the electricity to flow from "hot" to "neutral". When you plug something in, it completes the circuit and electricity flows.


1

You are probably in violation of National Electric Code, article 250.32(B)(1) states that the grounded conductor(neutral), shall not be connected to the equipment grounding conductor(ground). The general rule of thumb is the only point the ground and neutral get bonded together is at the first point of disconnect for any incoming system, be it utility, ...


0

If it isn't labelled, and isn't color coded, you will need to use a meter and do a lot of experimentation with the switches and circuit breakers to figure out what's going on. This is somewhere between annoying, messy, and dangerous if you don't know what you're doing. If you need to ask this question I STRONGLY recommend that you bring in someone more ...


2

The water pressure/flow analogy is, unfortunately, a common but very imperfect one. If we insist on using it, voltage is something like pressure and current is something like flow rate. The key concept you're missing is that you need a circuit, not a single wire. Voltage, like pressure in the pipe, is always measured relative to some reference point. If ...


6

Your two choices if you want normal AC power out there are: Direct burial cable. Figure something like $0.50/foot for 12 gauge cable, though it's possible that you will need to buy a roll of 500' instead of just 300' since 250' or 500' are standard lengths. If you do this, you will need to make sure that it is buried 24", and I highly recommend putting a ...


1

There should be no problems with extending the circuit as you suggest. Install another box where you need it, run the cable between the boxes, and hook everything up. I'd contact the local building department, and ask them if they would consider cable run on top of cabinets to be "subject to physical damage". I wouldn't think so, but not all jurisdictions ...


-1

"... the switch it self was working because when in on position there was no voltage reading across the terminals"; In ON there should be current across the switch; "... when off i got standard 120 reading from the common hot to the heater terminal"; you should not get current in OFF. You cannot measure AC current "from the common hot to the heater ...


1

It may be unsafe to run the heater without a working fan. Drop ALL the power to the room and remove the guts from the assembly. Usually the fan will have a short cord with a plug. Power it up and try to get it to spin (don't get shocked or bitten). If it is fail you might be able to get a replacement from the manufacturer. IME this is hit or miss; ...


0

Update - I called Home Depot and a DC extension cord will not work with this system. He said there is no way to extend this product. This leaves me with installing a second outlet which I think is still my cheapest option since I already own extra 12/2 wire.



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