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0

The first question will be what wires do you have now? In older houses (don't know if yours is or not) it's common to have 3 wires to a heavy 240V load - hot L1, Neutral, Hot L2 - and no separate ground wire. That is no longer accepted, so you need to have 4 wires; the previous 3 and ground. If you have 4 wires, or you add the required ground wire, YES, you ...


1

In addition to the comments about this being something you need to work out as people rather than trying to slap a technological fix on... if this really matters to you, you could offer to pay the heating bill out of your own pocket, or to pay a larger share of it, since you're the one who wants to spend more on fuel.


6

As others have stated, the voltage of the appliance/circuit has no bearing on the size (gauge) of the wire. Voltage dictates the quality of the insulation of a wire and most (power) wire we encounter will be rated for 600 Volts. The gauge should be primarily selected by determining the current draw - in Amperes - of all the devices to be connected to the ...


2

The National Electrical Code (NEC) determines the required minimum size for conductors. Under the NEC three broad categories cover most installations: low voltage, less than 600 volts, more than 600 volts. Keep in mind that code requirements specify the worst legally allowable construction. One common reason to increase conductor size above code minimums ...


20

When choosing wire, current dictates the size of the conductor and voltage dictates the insulation. Current causes the wire to heat up due to resistance. Metal expands and contracts when heated and cooled. This expansion and contraction, if too large, can loosen connections. Loose connections increase resistance, cause more heating, and will eventually ...


0

You can have two independent circuits on a double if you break its link tab off, but not on any triple that I know currently being manufactured, Ebay: I don't think they make the one (justanswer.com) on the right anymore:


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Yes, it is made to supply multiple loads from a single hot source. If you use a single hot (as opposed to tying the hots together) it will work but will likely overload that hot conductor, the switch, and trip the breaker. Your dishwasher and disposer pull a significant inductive load (they both have electric motors) and should be supplied by a dedicated ...


1

Don't do it! If the devices are on separate circuits, you cannot "tie" them together. If you're in the USA and use single phase service, you've likely turned a 120 Volt circuit into a 240 Volt short-circuit. You've directly connected the two legs of the service, causing a short-circuit. The switch is intended to control three branches of a single ...


5

Improper Electrical Wiring constitutes a serious life safety hazard. It can be the source of structural fire and potentially fatal shocks. I am not saying that you can't splice a common electrical wall switch into an extension cord. I am saying that it is not a good general practice. Consider Instead Installing a suitable hardwired outlet and wall ...


0

The fan switch is a three pole switch - basically three switches that operate at once. The switch should have two sets of three terminals, labelled L1, L2, and N, plus earth terminal(s). Connect one red wire to each L1 terminal, one yellow wire (with the red sleeve) to each L2 terminal, one blue wire to each N terminal, and the earth wire(s) to the earth ...


0

Unless there is already wiring to allow the separation of the fan and light from the same switch (ie. L/F===|sw|==[+]--), then no - you will need to run a second [+] wire from the switch to the fan or light because the current circuit would look like L/F>---|sw|---[+]--. If the circuit is like my first pictorial, then yes - it's just a matter of finding ...


0

There should be no problem connecting the C wire from your thermostat to the C terminal in the furnace. Take a look at this diagram, which is a rough approximation of your system. Notice the cable going to the condensing unit has a red wire connected to the Y terminal in the furnace, and a white wire attached to the C terminal. When the thermostat calls ...


3

If this receptacle you are referring to is serving the kitchen counter you CANNOT use that to feed a disposal. Kitchen counter circuits cannot be used to feed fixed appliances. You will need to run a new feed to the disposal, preferably a dedicated circuit from the panel.


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I've labeled your photo, which should help you understand what's going on. What you describe as a "blue" wire at the thermostat, you describe as "gray" at the air handler. I can't be sure, since I'm not there, but I think they are one in the same. If you want to install a fancy new WiFi thermostat, you're going to have to pull an additional wire from the ...


5

Breaking the tab on the neutral side does exactly the same as the hot side: it separates one terminal and neutral outlet from the other terminal and outlet. I can't imagine a scenario where only the neutral would be cut. The neutral should be cut where the corresponding hots are cut and come with their own neutral. For example, if the two halves of the ...


1

OK, first of all, plainly this is a mess. The fact that there is a white wire hooked up to a black wire without any recolouring of it alone says that (1) there's some amateurish stuff going on here, and (2) you cannot trust any of the white wires to actually be neutral until you prove that they are. So proceed cautiously, and take notes as you go. There ...


4

My understanding is that I need a 1 phase(household) to three phase converter to do this. Yes. Usually these are used if you need to control the speed, torque, or another aspect of the motor. If you just need a constant 1750 RPM with a max 1HP, then you can purchase a single phase AC motor that doesn't require a converter. If you need to control the ...


18

I'm sorry, but from the tone of your question, and the fact that you even suggest plugging this motor into a regular 15A receptacle tells me you are so far over your head your only valid option is to hire a pro to wire this. This is NOT a simple DIY job and you cannot simply ask questions to get every little detail out of an internet message board to do this ...


2

It looks a bit of an unusual setup, but I'll hazard a guess that there is either a further light on the circuit either fed from one of the switches or the power from the circuit is fed in at a switch and feeds on from here to another light (or lights). (Obviously, you need to verify this, as we can't tell how it's wired from just one photograph). From left ...


4

I assume you are in the USA. The heater is probably a pure 240V load with no need for the neutral (white) wire. you should simply cap the white wire with a wire nut and tuck it back into the electrical box.


1

Both black and red are typically used to indicate hot. Though you can't be positive without actually testing it with a multimeter. Red is usually used when there are two hots (14/3 wire instead of 14/2). Both green and bare copper are used to indicate ground. So it sounds like you wired it correctly. The green wire from the line (source) should also be ...


0

Another possibility not yet mentioned would be that some kinds of light switches will 99.9% interrupt current but still let through a tiny residual amount. This is particularly true of electronic dimmers that don't use a neutral connection (many need a tiny amount of power for their control circuitry) and for self-illuminated light switches. When using ...


0

Can you find the route of the existing 12/3 underground branch circuit cable? If so, you can expose the 12/3 cable in its trench and lay a 12/2 cable alongside it to carry the neutral and grounding conductors as per NEC 300.5(I): (I) Conductors of the Same Circuit. All conductors of the same circuit and, where used, the grounded conductor and all ...


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It looks like you're out of luck. It appears that the transformer is inside the hydrostat, and it doesn't expose a C terminal. You could contact the manufacturer, and ask them if there's a workaround. Based on the documentation, there's no obvious way to connect a WiFi thermostat to the system.


1

Yes, you can use this. GFCI breakers combine two different functions into one device. The circuit breaker function of the device is rated for 50 amps. However, because your 15 amp breaker is upstream from the GFCI, your circuit is protected at 15 amps, and will trip at 15 amps if there is a fault either before or after your GFCI. The GFCI function on the ...


2

Your method is fine. If your area has adopted the 2011 version of the National Electrical Code, this method allows you to wire the circuit using 2 wire cable instead of 3 wire cable. A change to the code now requires a grounded "neutral" conductor at all switch locations that control lighting loads. National Electrical Code 2011 Chapter 4 ...


0

Run the live, neutral, and earth from the panel to the first light fitting, then from that fitting to the next fitting, to the next, etc. From each fitting, run a live and earth cable to the switch and return a switched live to the fitting. In the UK, this would be incorporated in one cable run using twin and earth cable.


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Without knowing the wiring gauge, it is not recommended to use a larger breaker. The breaker should be sized to the wire gauge and circuit load. You do not want to overload your wiring and risk damage (melted insulation, or even possibly a fire).


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You certainly can use it, it will definitely power it. However, you should consider the purpose of the breaker; A 50 Amp circuit breaker is designed to cut the power if you draw more than 50 amps. A 15 Amp breaker cuts at more than 15 amps, and so on. If your new hot tub electronics rated for a 15 amp breaker go haywire, and start drawing 25 amps, that is ...


1

Any thoughts? Plainly something is messed up. I have many times taken apart a switch and discovered that the previous homeowner was creative in their choices. A recent one: white was hot and black was neutral, ground was open, the switch was wired to interrupt the neutral, the white wire from the lamp was connected to the black wire from the wall, and ...


5

There are collar boxes available that have conduit KO's (knockouts). Just install one on top of the existing device box and run your conduit. This one is even better as it has more volume: Brand: Steel City, Part number:531511234UB Here is a raised device cover to be used with the 4x4 box shown. They can be had in any number of different ...


1

I don't know too much about replacing outlets, only what I've read online or through YouTube videos. That's a good start but I would strongly recommend that you learn more before you make potentially safety-impacting changes in your electrical wiring. In particular if you cannot immediately state the relationships between amps, volts and watts, if they ...


4

It might be important to add a photo of a plug, so us Yanks can understand what you're talking about. Based on the image it's clear to see that the terminal screws have no heads, so it's much different from most screw terminals a US user would come across. Terminals like this; even in the US, are designed to clamp a straight bit of wire. With a terminal ...


0

Screwing the conductor into the terminal in the plug gives a much more secure and resilient connection. A longer wire wrapped round has the potential to work loose (then you could get arcing or even no connection) and also to potentially contact a different terminal. If the earth wire were to find a connection to the live terminal, you could end up with a ...


0

There are only 2 correct and safe ways to add a 3-prong outlet where formerly there was only a 2-prong one*: Safe way #1: run a new cable with an appropriately sized ground all the way back to the breaker panel. Safe way #2: Use a GFCI outlet (with the "test" and "reset" buttons), which will cut off power to the outlet if it senses an imbalance of current. ...


1

In addition to the other answers which correctly note that it is hard to block magnetism, it is a very bad idea to run power and data together because some unfortunate person in the future -- possibly a future version of yourself -- is someday going to try to hang a picture and drive a nail through the wire, just nicking both the data and power cables enough ...


0

The only time metal sheathed cable can be used as a grounding conductor is if it has a thin aluminum bonding strip. You MUST assure this is your kind of cable before re-installing grounding type receptacles. Image ©Mike Holt:


-1

Re-pulling through installed flex is a nightmare. If you do, keep in mind that new-style dimers require a neutral. -EMT fittings? I'm guessing there's no red bushing either. Flexible conduit used as ground? - InterNACHI Inspection Forum: "In general FMC or flexible metal conduit is limited to 6' in length when used as an EGC (equipment grounding ...


1

If you're in the US, NEC likely applies. Article 402 covers fixture wires, and explains what types and sizes are allowed. Type Table 402.3 lists the types of wires allowed to be used as fixture wires. If you're going to rewire the fixture, you'll have to use a type of wire listed in this table. FFH-2 HF, HFF KF-1, KF-2, KFF-1, KFF-2 PAF, PAFF PF, PFF ...


3

18g stranded wire is quite common on arms 14g stranded is often used to join the 18g arm strands, and to tie into the ceiling. This applies to North America and normal chandeliers with relatively low (<50 each) wattage bulbs.


0

Are you sure the center beam is full? You can stack romex, though derating rules apply. However, as most circuits are already derated, adding two more via stacking romex clamps might be ok. This page of the rulebook applies, at least in Canada. ...


4

The general guidelines: Don't notch a joist. (it's legal under the correct circumstances, but don't consider it until you have no other choice.) Don't drill a joist near the ends. (how near is near? Stick to the middle third and be safe. ) Only drill on the center-line of the joist. (This is the area under least stress). keep your holes less than 1/3 ...



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