New answers tagged

0

I was aware of four-inch extension rings but the ones I found attached in place of the mud ring. Fortunately someone pointed me to the existence of extension rings that attach to the mud ring. They're listed as attaching directly to a switch box.


0

Technically, the only way to accomplish what you're asking is to use a double pole 20A GFCI breaker, as there is no such thing as multi-wire branch circuit GFCI receptacle. On the downside, there does not exist yet a DFCI "Dual GFCI + AFCI double pole breaker, and current 2014 Code requires DFCI on all kitchen counter top receptacles.


0

The wires are made of copper, which is normal. It is a good conductor but it does corrode in time. What may have happened: The copper wires were not screwed it very tight. It is also possible that an older, cheaply designed socket simply doesn't clamp in the wires as well as modern ones. Over time, the copper corroded. The point of contact between the ...


1

The sheathing on one of the ground wires appears to be melted. A faulty appliance plugged into the outlet could have overheated the outlet if the circuit breakers (or fuses) weren't working properly. The corroded look on the wires could also have been caused by high temperatures.


15

Loose connections can produce heat and cause this problem. The fix is to disconnect and reconnect properly. Spring-loaded "stab connections" are particularly likely to suffer this problem; screw terminals (or shove-in terminals that are clamped by tightening a screw) are more reliable. If in doubt, outlets are cheap and you might want to simply replace this ...


0

Based on BS7671, for a 5% voltage drop, with cable in conduit, you need 16mm² according to the calculator at http://www.doncastercables.com/technical-help/ but it depends on the cable type as well. The calculator at http://myelectrical.com/tools/cable-sizing-calculator suggest a larger 25mm² cable for amoured cable buried directly in the ground. You could ...


2

To find if you have daisy-chained connections; easy: Count the sockets/outlets. If you have 4 sockets, see if you have 4 cables ending up at the entry point of the phone service. On ebay you can get a network tester for under $4 (I think ebay shows it to me in danish currency) "LAN Network/Phone Cable Tester RJ11 RJ12 RJ45 Cat5" It will only show if you ...


2

I'm not sure this is within the scope of DIY but DSL issues are almost always a result of interference on the line. A site like dslreports.com would probably be a good place to start. Either way, I'll type out a long winded answer because I spent a few years doing DSL troubleshooting for earthlink a while ago and this is an issue near and dear to my heart. ...


-1

Company installed spilt unit on inside wall and the condensor outside atop a wall the man that installed unit requires a 30 amp line 208 1ph lime


0

18 gauge wire is the smallest wire allowed by the NEC for wiring within a fixture or luminaire: 402.6 Minimum Size. Fixture wires shall not be smaller than 18 AWG.


1

I assume you have separate light and fan switches on the wall. Just substitute the red wire from your new unit to the connections the blue wire used to go to. Do everything else exactly as it was. The blue is light on your old unit, so same function as red on your new one.


3

I will assume that you live in a region where fake ground pins are common. (In my own experience I've found that "fake" ground pins are uncommon or even abnormal in the USA, but I have seen them in the UK.) To check if it really is a "fake" ground pin, you could: Confirm if the broken pin was actually metal, not plastic or similar. If plastic, it was ...


0

Three way light switches can be wired several ways, and yes, there is often red wires involved in the traveler or perhaps a 14/3 split power feed going to another circuit. So my advise, without back tracing and figuring out exactly where each wire goes and is used for, is to use the exact same two red wires. If possible, use a voltage meter or proximity ...


-2

Was the replacement breaker also a GFI breaker? Sometimes if those GFI DEVICES even smell moisture they will trip. Change to a regular breaker without the GFI and go from there.


0

I use a battery-powered hammer drill. Might be cheaper to run a permanent outlet and use a 25' (or less) extension.


1

Alright -- the trick with the PEK for you is to treat everything wirenutted to your two thermostat cables as the "furnace" from the PEK's standpoint. You'll need some 18AWG pigtails for the connection from the PEK to the "furnace", though, as follows: Red/black nut to PEK cover (furnace) R White nut to PEK cover (furnace) W Green nut to PEK cover (furnace)...


0

I'm not sure for a specfically "2-gang" box. These are made for 4" and 4-11/16 and octagon boxes: and there are 1-gang "handy-box" covers with a knock-out as well. A 4" box will take 2 devices, but some 4" boxes are set up with tabs for the devices, while others are set up with corner screws like this plate uses and need a cover to hold devices in place.


3

You have not stated any reason that would appear to prevent the obvious solution (if you consider it a problem at all) of running the network wiring along the face of the wall at the same level as the server rack, or roughly 12" below the power conduit. If the basement/crawlspace floods enough to flood the server rack you probably should rethink the location ...


1

IME, IMHO, UF is a terrible idea, but you can certainly put 3 UF in one trench, and you COULD bring them in through one (HUGE) LB - the LB needs to be HUGE because oval wire is treated as round wire of the largest dimension of the oval for conduit fill purposes, and 3 wires does not get the one-wire higher fill percentage. Also practically speaking you'll ...


0

Simply because they could be switch wires and not permanent active and neutral.the only correct way to work it out is to test for 120v with a multimeter to see if you have permanent 120v at the junction box or they are switch actives and neutral.never presume anything in a wiring circuit.always test to confirm


0

You say you want "to run a new line in my bath". So you do not need to figure out the wiring, you just need to find 2 wires in the junction box that will give you 120v and are not controlled by a switch. Why not undo the wire nuts and find a pair of wires that give you 120v. Then turn off all switches and see if you still have 120v. If so, you are set.


0

The receptacle has to be accessible. I would just mount a bell box or handy box on the left or right side of the alcove and feed it with NM cable through the the stud into the back of the box. Plug the monitor in there. Then the receptacle can be accessed by removing the monitor if you ever need to. As long as the monitor can be removed, even if it is a ...


3

Your current plan is no good -- first off, 400.8 point 1 forbids the use of cords as a replacement for permanent wiring (stuffing a cord down a conduit certainly counts, and is also prohibited explicitly by 400.8 point 6). Second, 400.9 prohibits the splicing of cord during installation. Third, wire splices need to be in a junction box so that they can be ...


1

Telephone wire. The red things are crimp splices.


5

Those are telephone wires. Looks like the cabling is CAT3, but I can't quite tell from the picture. The "red sensor" things aren't sensors, they are just splicers that are connecting two runs together. Google for "red telephone splicer" and you'll get tons of pictures of similar ones, as well as instructions on how to use them.


1

The box may have been a "variac." Flowchart for your problem: 1) Do you have a 200 foot extension cord? If yes, try that first, I believe it will be no problem. But if it IS a problem, go to step 3, rent a generator and ventilation fan. 2) If you don't have an extension cord long enough, buy one then go back to step 1. 3) Rent a generator and ventilation ...


3

Your hammer drill doesn't seem very high power (with max 10A at 120V, it's max 1200W), so probably you will be better off purchasing an industrial battery-powered hammer drill of comparable power like this one (note the 36V battery pack rating, well higher than more hobbyist tools, which rate at less than 20V) or this one (disclaimer: just did a quick search ...


0

Ok, the simple answer to your question is to wire the fan, both the black and blue wires together to the original hot lead which you said was red. Red is not normally the hot in a single switch circuit (SPST) unless it is run with a 14/3 wg, but if it worked with the old light, then the red is your switched source of power. The black wire from the fan/light ...


0

The main difference between your old GFCI plug and the new one you propose is that 2 wire only GFCI plugs lack what is called a grounded neutral detection circuit -- this circuit helps improve the GFCI's sensitivity to neutral-to-ground faults. This grounded neutral detection is unnecessary but harmless when the load is ungrounded -- your situation is no ...


1

A couple schools of thought. First is the easiest and as far as pool tables go very appropriate and that is the old swag lamp kit. You can get one fairly cheap at your local big box store, connect a couple wires, screw in some hooks and plug it in. They already come with a switch. If you do plan the harder route as you outlined above, think about running 14/...


4

For all of the questions you asked: Consult your town's building department (or equivalent if it goes by a different name where you are from). They should be able to pull the permit history for your home if requested and tell you what type of electrical work requires a permit. If you find the that work was done without a permit: If you are solely ...


2

If you just want a timer, it's easy to buy a line-voltage timer switch that you can drop-in where the current fan's on/off switch resides. If you want a thermostat, as the comments said you can find a line-voltage thermostat. THen you just need to run the hot feed from the on/off switch to the hermostat and then on to the fan. Another option would be to ...


0

When terminating the grounding and grounded (neutral) in the main panel, you can use any available, appropriately sized terminal on the ground/neutral bars. You can only connect a single conductor per terminal, so you'll need two open terminals to make the connection.


1

Since it is a subpanel, in your new panel, you will need to run the neutral to the neutral bar, run the ground to a separate ground bar, and make sure the green bonding strap/screw is removed so that the neutral bar is isolated from ground. This is different from the main panel, where you can mix neutrals and grounds on the same bus.


1

You can reuse the wires one of several ways. Run a separate ground wire Since it is a retrofit, you can add ground wire. (NEC 240.130). The 3 circuits can share one ground wire if they all originate in the same panel (as of NEC 2014‘s new 240.130D). The ground wire must be installed properly, and an appropriate size for each circuit it's grounding. ...


2

Yes, it is okay to use 12-2 cable to supply lighting fixtures. The other answer indicates that it even with 12-2 you have to use a 15A breaker for lighting circuits which is not strictly correct. If the entire circuit is 12AWG (other than fixture wires), then a 20A breaker may be used. If only part of the circuit is 12AWG while other parts are 14AWG (other ...


0

No, you can not use the existing wiring. All of the wires you use in a circuit must be in the same jacket or same conduit.


2

simulate this circuit – Schematic created using CircuitLab Figure 1. (a) 3-wire circuit. (b) 2-wire circuit. You need a 3-way (as in "positions"), 2-pole, centre-off, switch for each blind. ( Note that "3-way switch" in North America means a two-way changeover switch as used in stairs lighting.) Figure 1a shows how to wire it with three wires ...


1

You only need two wires. The earth, or ground, wire is a safety measure should something go wrong with the wiring inside, exposing a live wire. Older homes don't even have such a thing throughout the home and often include a three prong electrical outlet through "updating" without wiring up the ground connection.


2

That wire is distinguished by ridges on one side and writing on the other. It is up to you to decide for yourself how to allocate them. And it really doesn't matter with speakers as long as you are consistent. For what it's worth, in 120/230 mains wiring, there is a standard that the ridged wire is neutral. In a DC system, a common convention is to ...


0

It does not seem that the thermostats are compatible, no. Your existing thermostat is designed to control a heat pump with a multispeed air handler: L1/L2 are likely 24VAC in COMP controls the heat pump compressor R.V. controls the heat pump reversing valve HIGH/MED/LOW control fan speeds the unused wire is just that -- it looks like someone wired your '...


1

This all depends on whether the generator is designed as a separately derived system, or a non-separately derived system. Most residential generators work just fine as a non-separately derived system. Essentially meaning the neutrals and grounds are separated just like a sub-panel would be, both at the transfer switch and generator. Also, by NEC Code, a ...


0

Number 4 aluminum is good for 65 amps at 130' the voltage drop at 60 amps would be 2.55% . Up to 3% is allowed by code.


6

Note that the wire doesn't care which is positive and which is negative. Nor do the speakers, really; what matters is that both/all speakers be in phase with each other. So if the same side of the speaker wire is always hooked to the same terminal at the signal source (amp), and the same side is always hooked to the same terminal of the speakers (even if ...


2

Good question! DOC - to answer your question, (for 240 volt application) the two BLACK wires go to a 2-Pole 20A breaker and the white goes to the ground bus or a bonded neutral bar. Here is a cut sheet for a unit similar to yours (and similar to those that we install on a daily basis: http://www.five-two-one.com/pdf/LT521SPD_Web.pdf Hope this helps you!


3

Look closer at the insulation - there's nearly always a physical clue, such as tiny ridges on one wire, not on the other.


2

In the main panel, put the neutral where all the other neutrals are. Put the ground where all the other grounds are. Good chance they are all going to the same bus, that is fine in a main panel. In the sub-panel, yes, ground and neutral must be separated.



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