New answers tagged wiring
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Static noise can be generated from many different sources...poor grounding, bad connections, internal PC components, etc. It could be difficult to determine exactly where it's coming from.
Check all PC connections.
Re-route speaker wires with as much separation from/perpendicular to other cables/wires.
Keep speakers as far away from other components as ...
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Equipment grounding wires have been omitted for clarity. Don't forget to properly connect all equipment grounding wires.
Connect the white (grounded, neutral) wire from the feeder to the silver screw on the Line side of the GFCI receptacle.
Connect the black (ungrounded, hot) wire from the feeder to the brass screw on the Line side of the GFCI ...
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This could be a bunch of problems, from a missing ground to a voltage spike, to dying speakers, etc...
First of all, it would be helpful to rule in/out the computer as the source of the popping. It's possible your computer's sound card is not great and is sending those noises to the speaker, which is faithfully playing them. Try plugging the speakers into a ...
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I can see two motors. They have a 2A fuses on them and most likley are just normal brush motors 10vdc~15vdc
I know this because there are only 2 wires to both of them. Stepper motors use 4 or more wires and need special circuits to make the motor spin. There are some that use 3 wires that might also require a special circuit.
Unfortunately there is no ...
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It's fairly standard
In your case the red/white pair is probably from the switch, red probably live and white switched live (normally in my part of the world it would have red tape on it to indicate switched live). The other two twin+earth cables are mains supply and continuation to next light fitting. Your wires were connected directly to the light ...
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Does the machine work at all right now? If so you could use a multimeter to at least figure out if the power is AC or DC and how many volts it requires.
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Don't cross the blacks, you're saying you already have a light fixture there that has been happily working and I doubt you plan to rewire the house for this. In that case, simply hook up the fluorescent light the same as the existing light fixture (assuming nothing funky like the single bulb was 220 and you're wiring a new 110 lamp.) If the existing light ...
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What is probably happening here is you have power to the light on one black, another black to the switch, and a return path along the whites. That is, the switch is AFTER the light.
This is generally unsafe as the light is still energized, even when the switch is off, and should be fixed regardless.
The first thing I'd do is beg/borrow/steel a non-contact ...
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I would use boxes or at least caps to prevent insects from using your conduit as an expressway. At worst, you could have water moving down from a leak; at best, you might have cold air moving down.
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This is what your circuit looks like now.
Click for larger view
Start by turning the power off at the breaker, and verify power is off using a non-contact voltage tester.
When you look at the side of the receptacles, you'll see a small tab between the screw terminals.
Using a pair of pliers, break the tab off of the ungrounded (hot) side of the ...
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Do I just replace hot/neutral with hot/hot?
Absolutely not! You have a vital step to complete before you can do that.
Note that the bottom picture would have been a little better if you had pulled the cord up so we could see the numbers on the white plastic block.
In this motor, you are working with two sets of wires, the electrical cord and a pair ...
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The feed could be coming from either outlet, but no way to know which based on what you have provided. There appears to be additional outlets on this circuit.
Easy answer -- The two blacks tied together in Outlet #2 are always live. As are the two black and a white in outlet #1. You should confirm this with a tester .(I assume you know what you are doing -- ...
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These are called Bullet connectors. They're used as a male/female pair, and allow for quick, repeated connection and disconnection of a circuit. They can be found at any automotive supply store, and some hardware stores.
If you won't need to disconnect and reconnect the wires, you can simply cut the connector off, strip the wire, and use whatever other ...
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Yes, that would be fine. What you see is one side of a push-type connector that allows the wires to be disconnected and reconnected.
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Your voltage is perfect. I work for the local power company and we set our line regulators at 125v nominal with 130 being on the high side and 118 on the low end.
Without being there, it's hard to tell. Sometimes even being there, gremlins like this can be hard to track down.
Some things to look for. Do you ever notice your incandescent lights getting ...
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Though the NEC does not specifically state that you must use pigtails, it does say that you cannot rely on a device to provide continuity for a neutral. By using both terminals on an outlet, you are relying on the device to provide that continuity. The way around it is to simply use pigtails.
NEC 300.13 (B)
"Device Removal. In multiwire branch ...
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You could install a structured wiring box over top. This has the benefit that all your gear can be contained inside. They come in various sizes, and often has have a ton of (pricey) modular components to choose from, though you can also just use standard switches and other gear.
You'd have to choose one with or add a hole to the back for the wiring to ...
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OK, this is kind of a rambling question with a lot of details, but let me give you some leads on some of them:
Wall Plate
If you want to install a wall plate, you'll want to clean up the opening and then install a "low voltage mounting bracket", which is a square piece of plastic that frames the opening and provides a place to attach the plate:
(Wall ...
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Of course it is impossible to tell for sure without looking at the circuit in more detail but it looks like a 120V AC to low voltage DC power supply.
A way to troubleshoot it would be the following:
look up the voltage rating on the lights. Using a multimeter, check if this voltage is present at the output of the board. If it is, the problem is with the ...
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Workmanlike manner is a really subjective term. It is a catch all for neat, orderly and following the rules. A lot of inspectors fail an inspection using that term when actually specific violations are numerous. Common items such as not securing wires close enough to plastic boxes, crossbeaming, sagging cable, holes drilled too close to the edge of joists, ...
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They look like a type of push-in connector. If so they are in place of twist-on wire connectors and are not "just for protection", they are connecting the wires in a safe way.
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Yes, just replace the wires. Even if you reverse the connections, the light will work. For safety's sake, make every effort to connect the wires properly. The silver screw should be connected to the neutral house wiring, white in US and Canada and blue or black nearly everywhere else. Try to confirm the silver screw connects to the outer metal sheath of the ...
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Doesn't look good.
National Electrical Code 2011
ARTICLE 300 Wiring Methods
300.3 Conductors.
(B) Conductors of the Same Circuit. All conductors of the same circuit and, where used, the grounded conductor and all equipment
grounding conductors and bonding conductors shall be contained within
the same raceway, auxiliary gutter, cable tray, ...
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"explicitly allowed by code"
I think the term TAP is confusing.
In Part M of Article 410, Special Provisions for Flush and Recessed Fixtures, appears Section 410-67(c), which reads as follows:
(c) Tap Conductors. Tap conductors of a type suitable for the temperature encountered shall be permitted to run from the fixture terminal connection to an ...
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If the existing wire is the plastic Romex type then you should plan to run another 12-2 with GND wire up to the fan from the switching location. A single insulated conductor is not going to cut the safety mustard. When you run such wire then just common connect the added Neutral and GND wires into those existing connections within the boxes at each end.
It ...
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I am taking an educated guess that might change if I get more info. If everything was working before...
take the smaller wires off of the white wire and connect your white light fixture wire to it
connect your black light fixture wire to both black wires - twist them all together
if your light fixture has a red wire it goes with the black - if it is meant ...
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