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4

Improper Electrical Wiring constitutes a serious life safety hazard. It can be the source of structural fire and potentially fatal shocks. I am not saying that you can't splice a common electrical wall switch into an extension cord. I am saying that it is not a good general practice. Consider Instead Installing a suitable hardwired outlet and wall ...


0

The fan switch is a three pole switch - basically three switches that operate at once. The switch should have two sets of three terminals, labelled L1, L2, and N, plus earth terminal(s). Connect one red wire to each L1 terminal, one yellow wire (with the red sleeve) to each L2 terminal, one blue wire to each N terminal, and the earth wire(s) to the earth ...


0

Unless there is already wiring to allow the separation of the fan and light from the same switch (ie. L/F===|sw|==[+]--), then no - you will need to run a second [+] wire from the switch to the fan or light because the current circuit would look like L/F>---|sw|---[+]--. If the circuit is like my first pictorial, then yes - it's just a matter of finding ...


0

There should be no problem connecting the C wire from your thermostat to the C terminal in the furnace. Take a look at this diagram, which is a rough approximation of your system. Notice the cable going to the condensing unit has a red wire connected to the Y terminal in the furnace, and a white wire attached to the C terminal. When the thermostat calls ...


3

If this receptacle you are referring to is serving the kitchen counter you CANNOT use that to feed a disposal. Kitchen counter circuits cannot be used to feed fixed appliances. You will need to run a new feed to the disposal, preferably a dedicated circuit from the panel.


0

I've labeled your photo, which should help you understand what's going on. What you describe as a "blue" wire at the thermostat, you describe as "gray" at the air handler. I can't be sure, since I'm not there, but I think they are one in the same. If you want to install a fancy new WiFi thermostat, you're going to have to pull an additional wire from the ...


5

Breaking the tab on the neutral side does exactly the same as the hot side: it separates one terminal and neutral outlet from the other terminal and outlet. I can't imagine a scenario where only the neutral would be cut. The neutral should be cut where the corresponding hots are cut and come with their own neutral. For example, if the two halves of the ...


1

OK, first of all, plainly this is a mess. The fact that there is a white wire hooked up to a black wire without any recolouring of it alone says that (1) there's some amateurish stuff going on here, and (2) you cannot trust any of the white wires to actually be neutral until you prove that they are. So proceed cautiously, and take notes as you go. There ...


4

My understanding is that I need a 1 phase(household) to three phase converter to do this. Yes. Usually these are used if you need to control the speed, torque, or another aspect of the motor. If you just need a constant 1750 RPM with a max 1HP, then you can purchase a single phase AC motor that doesn't require a converter. If you need to control the ...


17

I'm sorry, but from the tone of your question, and the fact that you even suggest plugging this motor into a regular 15A receptacle tells me you are so far over your head your only valid option is to hire a pro to wire this. This is NOT a simple DIY job and you cannot simply ask questions to get every little detail out of an internet message board to do this ...


0

Typically yes, but without knowing the furnace and equipment you have (ie: central air?) it's hard to say for certain. There should be a wiring diagram somewhere in the unit. Here is a generic diagram, again, without knowing your exact unit this is just for reference.


2

It looks a bit of an unusual setup, but I'll hazard a guess that there is either a further light on the circuit either fed from one of the switches or the power from the circuit is fed in at a switch and feeds on from here to another light (or lights). (Obviously, you need to verify this, as we can't tell how it's wired from just one photograph). From left ...


4

I assume you are in the USA. The heater is probably a pure 240V load with no need for the neutral (white) wire. you should simply cap the white wire with a wire nut and tuck it back into the electrical box.


1

Both black and red are typically used to indicate hot. Though you can't be positive without actually testing it with a multimeter. Red is usually used when there are two hots (14/3 wire instead of 14/2). Both green and bare copper are used to indicate ground. So it sounds like you wired it correctly. The green wire from the line (source) should also be ...


0

Another possibility not yet mentioned would be that some kinds of light switches will 99.9% interrupt current but still let through a tiny residual amount. This is particularly true of electronic dimmers that don't use a neutral connection (many need a tiny amount of power for their control circuitry) and for self-illuminated light switches. When using ...


0

Can you find the route of the existing 12/3 underground branch circuit cable? If so, you can expose the 12/3 cable in its trench and lay a 12/2 cable alongside it to carry the neutral and grounding conductors as per NEC 300.5(I): (I) Conductors of the Same Circuit. All conductors of the same circuit and, where used, the grounded conductor and all ...


0

It looks like you're out of luck. It appears that the transformer is inside the hydrostat, and it doesn't expose a C terminal. You could contact the manufacturer, and ask them if there's a workaround. Based on the documentation, there's no obvious way to connect a WiFi thermostat to the system.


1

Yes, you can use this. GFCI breakers combine two different functions into one device. The circuit breaker function of the device is rated for 50 amps. However, because your 15 amp breaker is upstream from the GFCI, your circuit is protected at 15 amps, and will trip at 15 amps if there is a fault either before or after your GFCI. The GFCI function on the ...


2

Your method is fine. If your area has adopted the 2011 version of the National Electrical Code, this method allows you to wire the circuit using 2 wire cable instead of 3 wire cable. A change to the code now requires a grounded "neutral" conductor at all switch locations that control lighting loads. National Electrical Code 2011 Chapter 4 ...


0

Run the live, neutral, and earth from the panel to the first light fitting, then from that fitting to the next fitting, to the next, etc. From each fitting, run a live and earth cable to the switch and return a switched live to the fitting. In the UK, this would be incorporated in one cable run using twin and earth cable.


-1

Without knowing the wiring gauge, it is not recommended to use a larger breaker. The breaker should be sized to the wire gauge and circuit load. You do not want to overload your wiring and risk damage (melted insulation, or even possibly a fire).


0

You certainly can use it, it will definitely power it. However, you should consider the purpose of the breaker; A 50 Amp circuit breaker is designed to cut the power if you draw more than 50 amps. A 15 Amp breaker cuts at more than 15 amps, and so on. If your new hot tub electronics rated for a 15 amp breaker go haywire, and start drawing 25 amps, that is ...


1

Any thoughts? Plainly something is messed up. I have many times taken apart a switch and discovered that the previous homeowner was creative in their choices. A recent one: white was hot and black was neutral, ground was open, the switch was wired to interrupt the neutral, the white wire from the lamp was connected to the black wire from the wall, and ...


5

There are collar boxes available that have conduit KO's (knockouts). Just install one on top of the existing device box and run your conduit. This one is even better as it has more volume: Brand: Steel City, Part number:531511234UB Here is a raised device cover to be used with the 4x4 box shown. They can be had in any number of different ...


1

I don't know too much about replacing outlets, only what I've read online or through YouTube videos. That's a good start but I would strongly recommend that you learn more before you make potentially safety-impacting changes in your electrical wiring. In particular if you cannot immediately state the relationships between amps, volts and watts, if they ...


4

It might be important to add a photo of a plug, so us Yanks can understand what you're talking about. Based on the image it's clear to see that the terminal screws have no heads, so it's much different from most screw terminals a US user would come across. Terminals like this; even in the US, are designed to clamp a straight bit of wire. With a terminal ...


0

Screwing the conductor into the terminal in the plug gives a much more secure and resilient connection. A longer wire wrapped round has the potential to work loose (then you could get arcing or even no connection) and also to potentially contact a different terminal. If the earth wire were to find a connection to the live terminal, you could end up with a ...


0

There are only 2 correct and safe ways to add a 3-prong outlet where formerly there was only a 2-prong one*: Safe way #1: run a new cable with an appropriately sized ground all the way back to the breaker panel. Safe way #2: Use a GFCI outlet (with the "test" and "reset" buttons), which will cut off power to the outlet if it senses an imbalance of current. ...


1

In addition to the other answers which correctly note that it is hard to block magnetism, it is a very bad idea to run power and data together because some unfortunate person in the future -- possibly a future version of yourself -- is someday going to try to hang a picture and drive a nail through the wire, just nicking both the data and power cables enough ...


0

The only time metal sheathed cable can be used as a grounding conductor is if it has a thin aluminum bonding strip. You MUST assure this is your kind of cable before re-installing grounding type receptacles. Image ©Mike Holt:


-1

Re-pulling through installed flex is a nightmare. If you do, keep in mind that new-style dimers require a neutral. -EMT fittings? I'm guessing there's no red bushing either. Flexible conduit used as ground? - InterNACHI Inspection Forum: "In general FMC or flexible metal conduit is limited to 6' in length when used as an EGC (equipment grounding ...


1

If you're in the US, NEC likely applies. Article 402 covers fixture wires, and explains what types and sizes are allowed. Type Table 402.3 lists the types of wires allowed to be used as fixture wires. If you're going to rewire the fixture, you'll have to use a type of wire listed in this table. FFH-2 HF, HFF KF-1, KF-2, KFF-1, KFF-2 PAF, PAFF PF, PFF ...


3

18g stranded wire is quite common on arms 14g stranded is often used to join the 18g arm strands, and to tie into the ceiling. This applies to North America and normal chandeliers with relatively low (<50 each) wattage bulbs.


0

Are you sure the center beam is full? You can stack romex, though derating rules apply. However, as most circuits are already derated, adding two more via stacking romex clamps might be ok. This page of the rulebook applies, at least in Canada. ...


4

The general guidelines: Don't notch a joist. (it's legal under the correct circumstances, but don't consider it until you have no other choice.) Don't drill a joist near the ends. (how near is near? Stick to the middle third and be safe. ) Only drill on the center-line of the joist. (This is the area under least stress). keep your holes less than 1/3 ...


4

You follow the directions on the new ballast. Exclusively, and in detail. Most (but not all) modern ballasts ignore bi-pin tubes with heaters, so you (following the diagram) connect to both pins (at one end of the tube) with one color wire. But if the diagram shows otherwise, you follow it. In any case, you follow, exactly, the diagram on the new ballast. ...


2

You can do it using only 12/2 and 12/3 cables like this. Or you could use 12/2 and 12/4 cables like this. Because there will be so many wires in the box, you'll want to get at least a 34 cu. in. double gang box. Like this one. NOTES: I've excluded grounding conductors from the images to increase clarity. Do not forget to connect all grounding ...


1

Yes wiring into your lighting is absolutely fine and would be a more complete solution as opposed to plugging the transformer into your wall socket. One thing with these 30A 12V transformers is that they are usually open terminal so I would advise you to get an enclosure if you do not already have one.


1

I really think you're going to be unhappy with an electric mower for this situation, for a couple reasons: 250 feet of extension cord is going to be expensive, heavy, and very unwieldy to mow with Electric mowers are not that powerful and mowing a full acre is going to be a long, hard slog. I would guess it would probably take you two hours of hard work. ...


0

You can find a voltage drop calculator here. With your scenario, you would drop about 10% of the voltage, leaving 90% for the mower. This is on the edge of acceptable assuming that the voltage at the outlet is a full 120 volts, but if it's lower the voltage at het mower would be marginal. In that case, going to a 10 gauge cable would drop the voltage drop ...


4

A Gas lawnmower with an electric start. Electric ones don't like to cut heavy dense grass. Plug it in at the house, start it, disconnect and go. A quick search found a self-propelled one for about $300. I couldn't really find one much cheaper but I do recommend a self propelled model. Like this one from Briggs and Stratton, a reputable company. -Home ...


2

Grounding the mast is a very good idea if it is metal. You can get ground clamps that are designed for use with water pipes and conduit of practically any diameter. They are two curved pieces of metal that have machine screws on either side to clamp to the pipe. There is also a screw terminal for your ground wire. I would put a separate ground rod in, but ...


1

There is no problem connecting wires to both the "back stab", and screw terminals of a receptacle. As long as the terminals are rated for the size of wire being attached. For example. Most "back stab" terminals are rated for 14 AWG solid copper wire, whereas screw terminals are usually 12 or 14 AWG solid or stranded copper. With that said... It sounds ...


0

Do not think of using back stab holes even if they were there. Back stab hole connections can have their problems. I've seen more cases of intermittent connections when back stab holes were used for connections than I care to relate. What you want to do is to bring your two additional branch wires into the electrical box. Join their safety GND wires in with ...


2

I recommend that you not use the back stab wire technique. There are numerous problems with these things - both long term and short term. More often that one would like these connections lead to intermittent connections. I would remove all the wires from the sides and back stab holes of the old outlet. Connect the two existing hot wires with your third ...


1

From the comments posted above I understand.... You say that you measure a hot to neutral short at the electrical box for one particular circuit. On the other hand you say that no short is measured across hot to neutral at the outlet boxes. This can mean one of two things. (One) Something severed one or both of the wires between the outlet string and ...


2

Well, the way I'd find it would be to get a wire tracer. These consist of a transmitter that hooks to one end of the wire to use it as an antenna, and a short-range (and sometimes directional) receiver which you can then use to find the wire emitting that signal. That will let you trace a wire through the wall's surface. (There are several variants of this, ...


1

You will not be able to get a "wire powered" thermostat, without at least one more wire. You'll need an additional wire, to connect to the C terminal of the new thermostat.



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