Hot answers tagged wiring
11
Do I just replace hot/neutral with hot/hot?
Absolutely not! You have a vital step to complete before you can do that.
Note that the bottom picture would have been a little better if you had pulled the cord up so we could see the numbers on the white plastic block.
In this motor, you are working with two sets of wires, the electrical cord and a pair ...
7
OK, this is kind of a rambling question with a lot of details, but let me give you some leads on some of them:
Wall Plate
If you want to install a wall plate, you'll want to clean up the opening and then install a "low voltage mounting bracket", which is a square piece of plastic that frames the opening and provides a place to attach the plate:
(Wall ...
6
Workmanlike manner is a really subjective term. It is a catch all for neat, orderly and following the rules. A lot of inspectors fail an inspection using that term when actually specific violations are numerous. Common items such as not securing wires close enough to plastic boxes, crossbeaming, sagging cable, holes drilled too close to the edge of joists, ...
6
They look like a type of push-in connector. If so they are in place of twist-on wire connectors and are not "just for protection", they are connecting the wires in a safe way.
4
These are called Bullet connectors. They're used as a male/female pair, and allow for quick, repeated connection and disconnection of a circuit. They can be found at any automotive supply store, and some hardware stores.
If you won't need to disconnect and reconnect the wires, you can simply cut the connector off, strip the wire, and use whatever other ...
3
Though the NEC does not specifically state that you must use pigtails, it does say that you cannot rely on a device to provide continuity for a neutral. By using both terminals on an outlet, you are relying on the device to provide that continuity. The way around it is to simply use pigtails.
NEC 300.13 (B)
"Device Removal. In multiwire branch ...
3
Equipment grounding wires have been omitted for clarity. Don't forget to properly connect all equipment grounding wires.
Connect the white (grounded, neutral) wire from the feeder to the silver screw on the Line side of the GFCI receptacle.
Connect the black (ungrounded, hot) wire from the feeder to the brass screw on the Line side of the GFCI ...
3
It's fairly standard
In your case the red/white pair is probably from the switch, red probably live and white switched live (normally in my part of the world it would have red tape on it to indicate switched live). The other two twin+earth cables are mains supply and continuation to next light fitting. Your wires were connected directly to the light ...
3
Yes, just replace the wires. Even if you reverse the connections, the light will work. For safety's sake, make every effort to connect the wires properly. The silver screw should be connected to the neutral house wiring, white in US and Canada and blue or black nearly everywhere else. Try to confirm the silver screw connects to the outer metal sheath of the ...
3
Of course it is impossible to tell for sure without looking at the circuit in more detail but it looks like a 120V AC to low voltage DC power supply.
A way to troubleshoot it would be the following:
look up the voltage rating on the lights. Using a multimeter, check if this voltage is present at the output of the board. If it is, the problem is with the ...
2
You could install a structured wiring box over top. This has the benefit that all your gear can be contained inside. They come in various sizes, and often has have a ton of (pricey) modular components to choose from, though you can also just use standard switches and other gear.
You'd have to choose one with or add a hole to the back for the wiring to ...
2
What is probably happening here is you have power to the light on one black, another black to the switch, and a return path along the whites. That is, the switch is AFTER the light.
This is generally unsafe as the light is still energized, even when the switch is off, and should be fixed regardless.
The first thing I'd do is beg/borrow/steel a non-contact ...
1
This could be a bunch of problems, from a missing ground to a voltage spike, to dying speakers, etc...
First of all, it would be helpful to rule in/out the computer as the source of the popping. It's possible your computer's sound card is not great and is sending those noises to the speaker, which is faithfully playing them. Try plugging the speakers into a ...
1
I can see two motors. They have a 2A fuses on them and most likley are just normal brush motors 10vdc~15vdc
I know this because there are only 2 wires to both of them. Stepper motors use 4 or more wires and need special circuits to make the motor spin. There are some that use 3 wires that might also require a special circuit.
Unfortunately there is no ...
1
Doesn't look good.
National Electrical Code 2011
ARTICLE 300 Wiring Methods
300.3 Conductors.
(B) Conductors of the Same Circuit. All conductors of the same circuit and, where used, the grounded conductor and all equipment
grounding conductors and bonding conductors shall be contained within
the same raceway, auxiliary gutter, cable tray, ...
1
If the existing wire is the plastic Romex type then you should plan to run another 12-2 with GND wire up to the fan from the switching location. A single insulated conductor is not going to cut the safety mustard. When you run such wire then just common connect the added Neutral and GND wires into those existing connections within the boxes at each end.
It ...
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