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7

If the black wire in this situation is the ungrounded (hot) conductor, then it's a possible code violation and unsafe. If the black wire is the grounded (neutral) conductor, then it's a possible code violation but safe. If the black wire is the ungrounded (hot) conductor, then you're switching the grounded (neutral) conductor. This is a code violation, ...


6

I'm not sure what they meant when they said "the main didn't match the load", but certainly it wasn't because the sum of the handle ratings of the breakers in the panel was more than the main. More likely, the main was too large for the conductors and/or equipment it was protecting. Let's say you had a 200 ampere main disconnect, but the conductors or ...


6

Its perfectly normal for the main breaker to be smaller than the sum of all the breakers. This is fine, because its rare that you would turn on your electric stove, dishwasher, hot tub, central air, electric furnace, dryer, fridge, and arc welder all at the same time. Now, its quite possible that the electric service was undersized for today's use, but ...


6

There's no problem connecting a bigger conductor, as long as the circuit breaker protects the smallest conductor in the circuit. In fact, that big wire will reduce voltage drop over that 100 foot run. Actually, it's 100 feet, plus the length of whatever wiring you run to the outlet and lights, plus the length of whatever extension cord(s) you plug into the ...


5

You can't just fix this with wiring. You either need to get 3 phase supplied to your location and wired to the device, or you need a phase converter, such as what these guys sell: http://www.northamericaphaseconverters.com A possible alternative might be to use a VFD, such as this one: ...


4

No, you should not do this. Grounding wires must be kept separate from conducting wires in all cases. First, check if the circuit you are trying to extend is truly ungrounded. Does it use metal-clad cable and metal electrical boxes like this? If it does, the metal jacket may provide grounding for the circuit. You can try using a multimeter to measure AC ...


4

It sounds like there's an ungrounded (hot) conductor shorted to ground somewhere. Finding the short is likely going to be a tedious task. Check your work Did you install grommets or clamps, where the wiring passed through knockout holes in boxes? If not, start by inspecting the wiring where it passes through the knockouts. The edges of these holes ...


4

There's no problem using larger conductors in a circuit, other than it might be confusing to anybody that comes along later. You'd also be wasting money, if you're buying the larger cable.


3

That looks like a doorbell transformer. Those smaller wires should lead to your doorbell chime unit (assuming you have a doorbell). The junction box is there simply to provide power to the doorbell transformer. From the picture it looks like you have 12/3 and 14/2 in that box, but it is difficult to tell. How confident are you the larger wires are larger ...


3

1) Yes, your interpretation of the layout and markings seems to be correct. 2) No, it's not a problem, it's a very typical setup. You can have breakers totalling more than the total capacity of the unit, on the ground that you are unlikely to be running each circuit at or near capacity at the same time. A MCB (or RCD, fuse, etc) is designed (and sized) to ...


3

Lacking a model number to look up, I would try opening the device near the power cord and see if there is a jumper assembly or instructions for converting to other voltages and phase supplies.


3

The National Electrical Code defines a Multi-wire branch circuit as follows. Branch Circuit, Multiwire. A branch circuit that consists of two or more ungrounded conductors that have a voltage between them, and a grounded conductor that has equal voltage between it and each ungrounded conductor of the circuit and that is connected to the neutral or ...


3

You need to install a 20 ampere double pole GFCI breaker, instead of two single pole breakers.


3

To make a true 3-way motion detector switch -- as opposed to a motion detector with a remote, or a motion detector in series with a normal switch -- the motion detector has to be able to monitor whether power is being drawn through either of the travellers and which traveller it is currently connected to. If no power is now flowing, to turn on flip to the ...


3

Whoever wired your cabin was an idiot -- this quite unsafe (it's a great way to find yourself doing the 60 cycle shuffle mid-lightbulb-change) is a clear NEC 404.2(B) violation: (B) Grounded Conductors. Switches or circuit breakers shall not disconnect the grounded conductor of a circuit. (The exception is for dual-pole switches that switch hot and ...


3

Reversing "polarity"* (swapping the hot and grounded/neutral wires) presents no danger to the equipment on an AC circuit. In terms of electrical properties, the conductors are the same. The current switches direction 50 or 60 times each second, and the equipment simply cannot tell the difference between the two conductors. Here's an interesting article in ...


3

Aside from being a code violation of outrageous proportions, if this is 120VAC you would have the delightful condition that the light sockets were always hot/live - this can make changing a lightbulb into a shocking experience, and under the right conditions, also your last. You may also get some interesting magnetic effects from the loop wiring. Don't do ...


3

You'll have to leave at least one receptacle controlled by the switches, or you'd be violating 210.70(A)(1). National Electrical Code 2014 Chapter 2 Wiring and Protection Article 210 Branch Circuits 210.70 Lighting Outlets Required. (A) Dwelling Units. (1) Habitable Rooms. At least one wall switch controlled lighting outlet shall ...


3

As suggested by Speedy Petey, I poked around further into the back of the wall box and it turns out there was in fact, some white wire. This gave me what I needed to match the diagrams on the Insteon sheet, the unit is now connected as diagrammed and functioning as intended.


3

If you have single phase 240V power, you connect hot to screws 1, 2 and 3. Neutral to screws 4 and 5. That is what the diagram is showing. And of course, ground to the ground screw.


2

If your sure you have no power at the switch, then whom ever did the electrical is switching the neutral and that was at one time (A LONG TIME AGO) okay but not anymore. The switching neutral it is not safe, even with the light switch off you still have power going to the light fixture and or socket, so when it comes time to change it you will need to find ...


2

The NEC simply says as close as practical. Some locations do impose an actual distance number. Most areas have a limit of 5-6 feet into the structure to the main panel/disconnect. Your local authority/inspector will be the only one who can tell you for sure.


2

Some dimmers use the ground to trickle a small amount of current for normal operation. If yours is working without it connected, I would say it doesn't fall into this category (although you could provide the model name/number to be certain). Most likely the ground connection is there simply because all residential switches, receptacles, etc. require a ...


2

Accessible is a somewhat relative concept. You need to fully remove a recessed fixture from a ceiling to access the connections. This is a bit more difficult than pulling a switch to get at the wires, or even dropping a canopy style fixture, but it does meet the criteria of accessible. But one of the main rationales for the rule seems to be to ensure a ...


2

In this type of set-up, all load power is controlled by the electronic motion-sensing switch. If you use the mechanical switch to "turn on" the light, the motion sensor will turn it off when no motion is detected (after a certain time period, usually selected by the user/installer). If you look at the wiring instructions for the 3-way motion-sensing in-wall ...


2

If you're measuring voltage by touching your probes to the terminals on a single 3-way switch, you're not accomplishing much. Your readings will come out as follows. From common to the closed traveler terminal, you'll read 0 volts. This is because common is electrically connected to this terminal, so they're at the same voltage potential. From common to ...


2

You can use nonmetallic sheathed cable in basements, as long as you follow a few rules. If you're using 12 AWG cable, and you're installing the cable at angles to the joists. You'll have to pull the cable through bored holes, or along running boards. You cannot staple the cable along the bottom of the joist. When you come down the wall, you'll have to ...


2

No, conduit is NOT required in attics. Not unless conduit is required in your area. There are other factors involved in wiring in attic spaces, but your question is a bit too vague to go into that.


2

On your switch that you bought the Black is the Line (Power coming in), the Red is the Load (Power to the Light), the White (which you do not have) is the Neutral and the bare copper wire is the ground. Insteon used to sale a 2-wire kit but the product is now unavailable. You are going to need to get neutral down to light switch(12/3 Romex) or look at ...


2

If there's no current to the fixture or switch, then the fault is upstream. The fact that it was flickering indicates a failing connection, possibly arcing somewhere, which can be a fire hazard. You should check all the junctions on this circuit from the switch back to the breaker until you locate one with a good hot, neutral, and ground connection. And then ...



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