Hot answers tagged

12

If you cross perpendicular to the power there will be no problems no matter how many cables you cross each cable basically cancels when perpendicular.


6

It simply means what the item is referred to in size, .vs. what any actual dimension may be. "Nominal" size means the same thing. So, 1/2" EMT (for example) is 0.706" on the outside and 0.622" on the inside, and 0.500" nowhere.


5

Although the neutral wire will generally be near ground potential, there are some situations where it might not be. For example, when switching on a large motor, the voltage on the neutral wire may jump briefly but significantly. Further, if the neutral wire breaks between a device and the panel, it will very likely end up with full line voltage on it. If ...


5

If the manufacturer of the hot tub recommends a maximum circuit size of 50 amps then you should change the breaker to 50 amps. The conductors can stay the same. If the 50 amps is a minimum rating for the hot tub then you can leave the 70 amp breaker and conductors. You should always follow the manufacturer's instructions. The National Electrical Code ...


4

Connect the feeder wires to the LINE terminals on the GFCI. The feeder wires will be one set of black and white, which bring power to box. If there are two sets of feeder wires, you'll have to install two GFCI devices. As GFCI receptacles cannot be used to replace a split receptacle (where the two receptacles are supplied by separate branch circuits). Take ...


4

Identifying Multiple Neutrals To Its Own Branch Circuit The best way to do this is to use wire numbering stick-on labels, which solves the whole "what color can I use" question. Each current carrying conductor of a single branch circuit is tagged with the SAME number. For example, all the current carrying conductors of the branch circuit "kitchen lights" ...


4

The 225A welder would draw 50A @ 240V on it's maximum setting. The 17,000 BTU/hr heater is electrically equivalent to 5kW, so about 21A @ 240V. If you want to operate both simultaneously plus lights (not much power required for those, however), you need a 100A subfeed to your garage.. 60A will not cut it. A 100A subfeed to the garage requires 3/3 AWG NMD if ...


4

My SOP is to do switches or outlets one by one, in the sequence I find convenient. I turn off the one circuit it's on. And then I handle it as if it's energized. (Electrocution requires a path through your body, so you are particularly in danger if your body is also in contact with some other wire or object such as a pipe that is grounded) that would ...


4

Approved Installations The NEC often states "Approved method" of installation, which in other words is what the manufacture instructs. In the case of the non metallic NM wire connector, Halex© offers an online manual. Other Items That Should Be Fixed The metal stud looks to be 3.5" inch and Code requires no less than 1.25" from the edge of the stud. In ...


4

Long story short, if you have no proper source of ground, then the proper choice is to use a GFCI with no ground bonded at all. Why this is okay is interesting though: Suppose you have a metal tool with a ground fault. If you are totally isolated from any grounding conductor while using the tool, you will never know it has a fault. Once you become ...


4

Short answer: NO Bonding the neutral and the ground anywhere but the service is prohibited. This puts neutral current on the ground wire that people expect to be safe under normal conditions. I know they go the same place, but they serve two completely different functions. Good luck!


4

Since this would be a sub-panel install, ground and neutral are NOT connected - they are isolated. There is but one bond between them per code, and that one already exists in the system that the power is coming from. I'd tend to agree with S.P. that your prior experience is either too long ago or too unrelated to what you are doing for it to seem a great ...


3

Anyone able to point me in the right direction as to what wiring i have here? Red - permanent-live feed from lighting circuit (240V AC) Black with red sleeve - switched-live from switch (to luminaire). Green - earth to metal backbox. Yellow - earth from metal backbox to metal body of dimmer - no longer needed, remove. A typical UK light switch will ...


3

According to the National Electrical Code, yes it should be a 20 ampere branch circuit. This circuit should also not have any other outlets, other than the ones for "laundry equipment". So keep the 15 ampere circuit for your general use receptacles, and run a new 20 ampere circuit for the "laundry equipment". Also note that the receptacles in the laundry ...


3

They make VR rated tires rated at 130 mph. That is only a max rating -- you're not required to drive 130 mph! Simlarly, you're not required to feed 60A to a 60A-rated panel. In fact I encourage you to use a 100, 125 or 200A panel, because those have more breaker spaces than a 60A. If you want to feed any of them with a 40A breaker in the main panel, ...


3

If the wires are for low voltage application such as connecting 12V up to LED Strip lighting then you should consider just using twist on wire connectors instead of soldering. These have a decided advantage in that they can be removed for future wire changes and they provide an insulated cover over the wire join. To keep strain off the low voltage wiring ...


2

I wouldn't follow that recommendation by Mr. Solar due to safety and it's overkill. You don't want the potential to power both High and Low speeds at the same time plus the 3PDT relay is not required for anything, keep the DPDT. The standard method is to use a SPDT contact to change speeds so that voltage is only applied to either the Low or the High but ...


2

Answer is no...I have the same setup as you. I tried adding 9th camera (wireless) It recognizes it but i can only add it if i remove one of the existing cameras so it looks like they put a limit on how many streams it can take and it could be because hardware limitation.


2

That is a Belden IBDN QCBIX1A4 BIX Distribution Strip with 4 pair markings. A datasheet can be found here. This product line was originally owned by Nortel, so you might see Nortel labels in your panel. It's essentially a 4-pair splicing strip with 110 style punch down terminals - every pair of wires punched down on one side are extended to the other side ...


2

Rejoice in the conduit. It makes modifications easy - for instance if you ever install a smart switch that needs neutral, you can just add a neutral. You only think of white and black because those are the colors in Romex. Since you're in conduit, that's not a factor. It's a mark of quality for an electrician to use a multitude of colors in an apparent ...


2

First off -- the only guarantees found in North American electrical code are that neutrals are white or grey (but not all whites are neutral) and grounds are green, green/yellow striped, or bare. Things that are neither ground nor neutral can be any other color -- the reason black, red, and to a lesser extent blue are common is because those colors are what ...


2

Not only does perpendicularity eliminate interference, but also an important point of coaxial design is that any interference affects the core and shield equally, but in opposite polarity. For the second question, yes. Hook up the coax to an oscilloscope and view the waveforms on different settings.


2

You're over-thinking this. Get a replacement plug from the hardware store. Disconnect the "downstream" lights and put the plug on to that wire. Then use an extension cord.


2

Here's my best guess at the wiring based on the photo. Looks like you've got one hot/neutral coming into the box from the panel (or another switch/outlet), and you've got 2 hot/neutrals going out of the box to other switches/outlets. Since these are all joined together, it doesn't really matter which one is coming in and which two are going out. Then it ...


2

The feeders and sub-panel need to be sized large enough to carry the calculated load. 3VA's per square foot plus the equipment. There are several sample load calculations in the Annexes in the back of the code book. Or pick up a copy of the text book Code Calculations from the NJATC. If you calculate it at 40 amps then that is your minimum. You can always ...


2

You'll need a double pole breaker. You'll connect the neutral to the neutral bar, the grounding conductor to the grounding bar, one ungrounded (hot) conductor to one terminal of the breaker, and the other ungrounded (hot) conductor to the other breaker terminal. At the panel in the shed, you'll connect the neutral to the neutral bar, the grounding ...


2

No, they do not need to be grounded. If the box contained household voltages, then yes, it would need to be grounded.


2

what have i done wrong? Your wiring looks correct for the last light in a UK radial lighting circuit wired with the connections in the ceiling rose. See Ceilling light wont switch off after a new installation You could Check that all the screws are fully tightened down. The circuit-breaker in the consumer-unit has not tripped out (or fuse blown). This ...


2

It has to be at least 2" away from the top, or bottom of the joist. As far as distance from the ends, there are no rules: Holes: Do not bore holes closer than 2" from joist edges, nor make them larger than 1/3 the depth of the joist. –engineering.purdue.edu, PDF If you look at the document, it clearly states and depicts the top or bottom, with no ...


2

Add up the wattage on the lights, the stereo gear, the fan, and the TV, then divide by 120 and see if it's more than 20 -- although unless you have a monster amp on your stereo, I doubt you'll run into trouble there. As to the receptacle itself, it's fine -- Code only apportions 180VA per receptacle yoke or lighting outlet.



Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible