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8

No, you cannot. Unless you're not covered by National Electrical Code (or similar), you don't care about following codes, or you're also installing a permanent barrier or listed divider. National Electrical Code Chapter 8 Communications Systems. Article 820 Community Antenna Television and Radio Distribution Systems. 820.133 Installation ...


4

You've likely just swapped a couple wires, if you even have to do anything. If the fan and light are controlled by simple snap switches, then you don't really have to do anything (other than relearn which switch is which). If you have specialty fan controls and/or dimmers, you'll want to switch things around. In the ceiling box above the fan, there should ...


4

No, the intelligent (budget-concious) solution in this case is to use the cat3 conductors and any of various schemes to run ethernet over them; starting with the base case that 10Mbit ethernet runs happily on Cat3 wire, and many Cat3 wires are actually fine for 100 Mbit. Those are "free" solutions. You could put trunking switches on either end and run a ...


4

Based on the photograph, I'd say the black wires are feeding voltage from the panel (hot) and carrying the voltage onto another switch or outlet. The red wire is presumably going to the light (load). You need to connect the black wires to one screw of the new switch and the red to the other. Leave the green (ground) screw unconnected. It's generally not ...


4

Alright there are two options. 1.Either your light was fed power from the panel (or a plug etc...) first. OR The light switch box was fed power first and your light has two cables in it because it goes to another light after that one. You need to first figure out where your strait hot power is coming in from. I understand that you believe you have ...


3

Just don't -- you can't "panel over" boxes and make them inaccessible as a result and you must have at least one receptacle installed and hot on a 24" by 12" or larger peninsula.


3

Orision, My take on this is that you understand what you want pretty well, and understand electricity only at a very surface level. That's not a great mix. My suggestion would be for you to do some googling on home automation products and see if you can come up with a way to set up a system that accomplishes this with off the shelf home automation products ...


3

It sounds like whoever installed it, used the neutral as a hot and the ground as a neutral. Likely they wanted to control the fan and light separately, but only had two conductor cable between the switch and fixture. If you're installing a remote, you'll only need the two conductors. Without seeing what you have, this is what you might have to do. ...


3

It can use a pigtail, unless it's a GFCI receptacle and you want the light to have GFCI protection.


3

Yes, the wire is undersized for 20 amps - 12 gauge copper is code minimum for 20 amps - if the run is long, 10 gauge can be a smart choice, if it's very long a larger size feed (30 - 60 amps at 240V) to a subpanel run on aluminum wire of much larger size quickly makes financial sense given the relative prices of aluminum and copper. The cycle in effect is ...


2

Position the rack so you can screw into the studs. If that is not practical then mount a sheet of decent thickness plywood onto the wall surface and fasten that to the studs wherever possible. The rack can then mount onto the plywood. If you use a plywood that is 3/4' inch (19 or 20mm) thick then the screws for the rack need not even penetrate the drywall at ...


2

Before National Electrical Code 2014, this was not allowed. However, if your area has adopted the 2014 version of the code, this is now legal as long as both circuits originate from the same panel (250.130(C)(4)). See this answer for more detail.


2

Whether it is safe depends mostly on how well the wires were protected and how much space is in the canopy. But it is not a good idea. Wires need to be protected from being disconnected and from being shorted out. Disconnecting could happen if there is too much strain on the mechanical connection through excess force. If wires are well connected with wire ...


2

You'll need: NEMA 14-50 receptacle. 40 ampere double pole breaker Four 8 AWG copper conductors, or four 6 AWG aluminum conductors (Hot, Hot, Neutral, Ground). It's common for builders to use a 50 ampere breaker and larger conductors, to make sure the circuit can handle any range the owner's might use. But if you're installing the circuit to support a ...


2

That will work. Code depends on where you live, but I can't see anything wrong with making the junction away from the switch. You might have issues doing all this in the fan box. It might be cleaner to put a small box in the ceiling and do your connections, then have a small run down to the fan. And be smart with placement of recessed lighting above a ...


1

If you can run the Ethernet to the basement through the cable box, why not just do that? Both the co-ax and the Ethernet cables are low voltage. There's no problem running them together in the same box and/or conduit. If you run the Ethernet cable exposed along the wall, it won't cause data transmission problems, but it won't be attractive and you'll have ...


1

There are cable clamps available that have nails suitable for masonry walls


1

You'll need two wires. One wire (R) that comes from the transformer, and one (G) that powers the fan relay.


1

There may be an in-ceiling connector as well as the connections which are certainly in the tape, but if you cannot pull a connector down by gently pulling on the wires, and if you cannot access the ceiling space, then the following will work. (1) BEST: Get somebody competent to assist or to do the job - you have less chance of dying that way. Otherwise: ...


1

There should be no problem putting it all on a single 15 ampere circuit. Likely in the worst case scenario, each fixture would consume ~100 watts. That would be using large 52" fans, and 100 watt bulbs in each fixture. With the 10 fixtures, that would be 1000 watts (10 * 100 = 1000). A 15 ampere 120 volt circuit can provide 1800 watts of power (15A * 120V). ...


1

So it sounds like you have the wrong number of wires for your switch to have ever worked properly by your description, from the way that I read it. SO I will try to understand. When you took off your three way switch was there three screws with three wires going to it? Plus perhaps your box is metal and has a bare ground screw at the back, or a bare ground ...


1

Be careful when reading residential voltage with a DVM meter. My Fluke will read 121VAC at a single pole switch with the switch On, and 50vac with it off. But the scale changes from V to mv (milivolts). The scale changes dynamically and the v in milivolts on my Fluke is very small. 50-60mv is typical voltage float on ground. I have never measured a true ...


1

How about dropping the cover at the top of the fan and if the neutrals are all connected together (suggesting a single supply) - disconnect the fan wire from whatever it's connected to and reconnect to whatever the lamp is connected to. - Cap off the wire(s) you disconnected from the fan wire. now turning on the light will turn on the fan.


1

You are describing a 3-way switch, which is among the most cheap and common electrical elements you will find. You can pay up a bit for a 3-way switch with "pilot light" which will illuminate the switch when the circuit is closed (or open, depending on how wired), so that users will know whether toggling the switch will be turning the receptacle on or off. ...


1

If your sauna heater is a 240 volt heater, you don't need the grounded (neutral) conductor. You can simply cap it off using a twist-on wire connector, or other approved means.


1

From your question it sounds like you have a series of fixtures, some between the two switches and some past one of the switches. The key to a successful 3-way switch setup is maintaining the two traveler conductors between the two switches and then choosing one of the two switches as the "in" and the other as the "out". Usually the "close" switch (the ...


1

The install guide for the oven lists a 40 amp circuit.


1

With another clockwise fan from the same maker, I was able to reverse the direction by interchanging the yellow and black wires as some answers here indicated. The explanation as I understood is that the rewiring changes the winding with which the capacitor is in series and hence the starting direction is inverted. In 3-phase motors, each of the three ...


1

I'm assuming the new switch came with the new light/fan unit. In that case, cap the red wire in both boxes. It must be a communicating switch. So wire it as you would any single-pole light switch and light.


1

If i'm understanding you correctly, you have a light that has a power source coming directly into it. From there, two wires go down to the switch (Black is power to the switch, and White is the power back up to the light.) You have some outlets that come from the light junction box and want to remove one of them. You want to add a second switch so that ...



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