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17

I have never covered mine and this article also seems to recommend not covering it: Your central air conditioning unit consists of a compressor and condensing unit placed outdoors in a metal housing. These units, built to resist the weather, generally do not need a cover. In fact, covers can cause problems because they trap moisture and ...


12

I would guess that the problem is not a draft from the windows, but moisture in the room, probably caused by having two people sleeping in a closed room. The warm, moist air in the room will hit the cold window and water will condense. To eliminate the problem, get more air circulation - open the door, or open the window a tiny bit. At least try it for a ...


10

I have always just had a "last mow of the year", where when I run the mower dry, and I've never had a problem. Then you're not really "wasting" the gas. Depending on your model (and it looks like the one you specified ought to manage this), you may be able to do option 2 if you have a really full gas tank. Then, after emptying, you still ought to run it ...


8

IMO run it dry, most of my neighbors and I do this by mowing our leaves. Either bagging or mulching actually helps. Alternately look for the line that runs from the bottom of the fuel tank to the carburettor. If this is easy to get to and remove you may be able to remove the line and use that to drain it.


8

In the winter, windows can be one of the biggest sources of heat loss in your entire house. In an older house with no or low insulation, this can be particularly true. One thing that you can do with minimal fuss - if you feel cold drafts coming from around the window its entirely possible that you've got air leakage around the window frame itself. A quick ...


7

As Tester mentions, new windows are the most cost and energy efficient in the long haul. However, the upfront cost is substantial, especially if you want to do a lot of windows. The concept is the same with all window coverings, add an additional layer of air between the primary window and the covering to slow down the transfer of heat. A single pane ...


7

Depending on the door construction and your own comfort level, you might be able to modify the door you have by cutting an 8" section out of each vertical stile in the top or bottom of the door, somehow attaching them back together, and then reinstalling the screen in the smaller opening. Given how simple a screen door is though, and especially on an ...


6

It's definitely a good idea to blow the water out using a compressor. Since naturally there will be sections of the system where water will sit, and the pipes are not very deep (typically 1 or 2'), they will likely freeze, and if that happens the pipes will crack, and you'll have a non-working system (and lots of digging to do) in the spring. Check this ...


5

Chris is on the right track. A single a pane window is R1, the most expensive double pane window money can buy is R2.4. Not much difference, huh? Glass gets cold, excessive moisture in the room is condensing on the glass, that simple. Either stop breathing or get some air moving through the room or lower the humidity in the house or that room with a ...


5

If your leaking problem is from loose fitting window sashes or a poor fitting door, the simplest and cheapest method would be to purchase some self-adhesive foam weather stripping. This rolled product can be easily installed at the bottom of a window or around the outside edge of the door frame. Select the smallest size that will help seal the gaps, then ...


5

Fill the hole with concrete. Concrete doesn't expand in the cold -- you're probably thinking of frost heave, which is where moisture in the soil freezes and expands, disturbing whatever's above it. If your sidewalk hasn't heaved by now, then the addition of new concrete below it isn't going to change anything. Filling the hole with dirt or sand may in ...


5

I'm no plumber, but I did just install my own sprinkler system. That looks like a reduced pressure assembly used for backflow prevention. the little screwdriver valves at bleeder. You should only need to touch them if Water comes out. With the main water under the house on, turn on the the big valve closest to the house first, then the second valve ...


4

You can use fiberglass batts, but don't leave them exposed to the elements (or the wildlife, for whom it makes perfect nesting material). One option I've seen used for covering up this sort of thing is vinyl soffit. If there's room you can install nailing cleats inside the bumpout's rim joist so the soffit material is held up inside the rim and is not ...


4

If you have no space in a garage or shed (like me) then outside is your only option. I use a 20'x20' plastic tarp tied around my four patio chairs and table on my deck. They've survived 6 Minnesota winters. After a big snowfall, sometimes I'll sweep the snow off if it accumulates.


4

You are correct that having a hot radiator on what's effectively a cold space - the porch - is very inefficient and, presuming nobody's on the porch most of the time, wastes a lot of energy. And you are correct that the hot water going into that radiator is being cooled in the process. However, it is unlikely that the water is going to any other radiators, ...


3

I agree that it is important to make sure the windows are sealed and properly weatherstripped. All windows regardless of age transfer a lot of heat. With some older windows and in older houses, the discomfort that a lot of people feel is actually air transfer moving through the windows. Sealing gaps (if you have new windows but the old weight cavities are ...


3

Try leaving the curtains open during the night just as an experiment. I bet they will not build any condensation. This happens to use with our roman shades. The curtains act as an additional layer of insulation, and it gets really cold between the window and curtain. Somehow this barrier causes the condensation our house.


3

Get a small Hygrometer, anything will do, less than $10 works well If you have up to %50-%55, you should not get condensation on double pan window. I had single pan that was every morning totally wet, I could fill a glass with the amount of condensation on that window. Replaced it with double pan and now there might only be a bit condensation on the ...


3

Get a window insulator kit. It is made of a clear, plastic material that goes over the window, with double-sided tape around the edges to seal it. It's easy to set up and helps a lot with drafty windows.


3

I bought a little gas siphon with a squeeze bulb from home depot for $5. I use that to empty the tank. I then run the mower to pull the remaining gas out of the system (runs for like a minute). Oh, and +1 for using Sta-bil. Even if you don't leave gas in the mower, you should put a fuel stabilizer in your gas can. Unless you use up the fuel in your gas ...


2

I cover mine in the winter using a single unopened trash bag and some duct tape. The bag is the right size to cover just the top and not much of the sides. This allows ventilation on the sides while keeping snow and ice from entering from above. With the duct tape, it's just a strip down each corner and then I run a band of tape around the perimeter of ...


2

A concrete leveling company could do the job. I hired a company to raise my driveway back to level. They drilled a small hole in the cement pad and pumped in hydraulic cement. It leveled out the pad and they assured me that it won't be bothered by frost heave. The leveling service might be your best option to ensure that the hole is filled. If that hole ...


2

That sounds like it would work but its involved. I do what you do and use the double stick tape on the flat top of the sill. Then before I shrink the plastic I get normal clear packaging tape and go around the whole window again. I get a lot of draft and condensation and over the years this technique evolved and seems to work.


2

If you can actually see the gaps in the windows, a can of "Great Stuff" would probably do the trick. It's an expanding foam that you spray into gaps. Or you could use a squeeze tube of "DAP Silicon II" and run a bead of it around the window. I'm going to assume that if you're in an apartment for the short term you either don't have a caulking gun or don't ...


2

I had this exact problem. It also got much worse when we refinished our basement. Not sure if you have a basement, and if it is refinished. Here is the summary of my issue. The floor joists from the basement extend out to support the bump out. So standing in the basement, you can reach out below the bump out. The space was insulated, with the ...


2

I would recommend spray in High density foam. You didn't mention how many square feet of exposure you need to insulate, but I assume the two feet by 10 to 20 feet. The real advantage to foam is the great total seal and air infiltration blocking. it is also pretty vermin, moisture and mold resistant. The disadvantage is the cost being higher than fiberglass ...


2

Start by removing the trim from around the window, this will give you a good look at the problem. Once you have the trim removed you'll be looking at something similar to this... You may notice gaps between the window frame and the wood frame or between the wood frame and the wall, these are the areas you'll want to fill to stop the draft. Get a can ...


2

Make an insulated, heated enclosure for the paint. Since the paint is already on a wire rack, just insulate the floor and enclose the bottom shelf of the rack. Use a lizard heater and a thermo-cube. Cut and notch OSB, rigid foam insulation and some scrap pegboard to fit on the floor below the shelf. Use scrap vinyl to make a serpentine channel on the ...


1

What are you using to heat the house with? I notice a lot of houses in Seattle use electric baseboard. That's probably the most expensive way to heat (unless you are diligent and turn them on/off as you go from room to room throughout the day). So new windows may absolutely be a good thing, but if the goal is to save money, you might get better bang for ...


1

Sounds like your new windows are much better than your old ones, and the house is now much tighter than it was. This is a common problem in well sealed houses. We have Anderson double pane low E windows, and they fog up inside when we boil things on the stove in the winter. The best solution is natural ventilation. Try leaving the window open a crack ...



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