Hot answers tagged winterizing
Clean your gutters Make sure your chimney is clean Install storm windows Empty the gas from your mower and Reverse ceiling fans
I have never covered mine and this article also seems to recommend not covering it: Your central air conditioning unit consists of a compressor and condensing unit placed outdoors in a metal housing. These units, built to resist the weather, generally do not need a cover. In fact, covers can cause problems because they trap moisture and ...
Take the snowblower out of storage. Put a little bit of gas in and make sure that it starts. No sense in trying to diagnose a small engine problem in the freezing cold (if you can help it).
Give your car a once over: Check fluid levels (oil, coolant, brake, steering, transmission) Make sure you top up the washer fluid Check the tires. Check tire pressure, and adjust as necessary Check the treads. If you insert a penny in the tread, and can see the top of Lincoln's head, then you are due for new tires. Double check your spare is in good ...
Drain all your garden hoses and insulate external faucets with these.
I would guess that the problem is not a draft from the windows, but moisture in the room, probably caused by having two people sleeping in a closed room. The warm, moist air in the room will hit the cold window and water will condense. To eliminate the problem, get more air circulation - open the door, or open the window a tiny bit. At least try it for a ...
I have always just had a "last mow of the year", where when I run the mower dry, and I've never had a problem. Then you're not really "wasting" the gas. Depending on your model (and it looks like the one you specified ought to manage this), you may be able to do option 2 if you have a really full gas tank. Then, after emptying, you still ought to run it ...
In the winter, windows can be one of the biggest sources of heat loss in your entire house. In an older house with no or low insulation, this can be particularly true. One thing that you can do with minimal fuss - if you feel cold drafts coming from around the window its entirely possible that you've got air leakage around the window frame itself. A quick ...
IMO run it dry, most of my neighbors and I do this by mowing our leaves. Either bagging or mulching actually helps. Alternately look for the line that runs from the bottom of the fuel tank to the carburettor. If this is easy to get to and remove you may be able to remove the line and use that to drain it.
Blow out your sprinkler (irrigation) lines so the water does not freeze and break the line or sprinkler heads.
As Tester mentions, new windows are the most cost and energy efficient in the long haul. However, the upfront cost is substantial, especially if you want to do a lot of windows. The concept is the same with all window coverings, add an additional layer of air between the primary window and the covering to slow down the transfer of heat. A single pane ...
If you have a fireplace - get the chimney swept/inspected.
It'll be fine. You should always wait at least one year anyways to make sure the wood is fully dried. I think I waited almost 3 years before I stained parts of my deck, with no detrimental effects.
Depending on the door construction and your own comfort level, you might be able to modify the door you have by cutting an 8" section out of each vertical stile in the top or bottom of the door, somehow attaching them back together, and then reinstalling the screen in the smaller opening. Given how simple a screen door is though, and especially on an ...
It's definitely a good idea to blow the water out using a compressor. Since naturally there will be sections of the system where water will sit, and the pipes are not very deep (typically 1 or 2'), they will likely freeze, and if that happens the pipes will crack, and you'll have a non-working system (and lots of digging to do) in the spring. Check this ...
I bought a little gas siphon with a squeeze bulb from home depot for $5. I use that to empty the tank. I then run the mower to pull the remaining gas out of the system (runs for like a minute). Oh, and +1 for using Sta-bil. Even if you don't leave gas in the mower, you should put a fuel stabilizer in your gas can. Unless you use up the fuel in your gas ...
If your leaking problem is from loose fitting window sashes or a poor fitting door, the simplest and cheapest method would be to purchase some self-adhesive foam weather stripping. This rolled product can be easily installed at the bottom of a window or around the outside edge of the door frame. Select the smallest size that will help seal the gaps, then ...
I had this exact problem. It also got much worse when we refinished our basement. Not sure if you have a basement, and if it is refinished. Here is the summary of my issue. The floor joists from the basement extend out to support the bump out. So standing in the basement, you can reach out below the bump out. The space was insulated, with the ...
Fill the hole with concrete. Concrete doesn't expand in the cold -- you're probably thinking of frost heave, which is where moisture in the soil freezes and expands, disturbing whatever's above it. If your sidewalk hasn't heaved by now, then the addition of new concrete below it isn't going to change anything. Filling the hole with dirt or sand may in ...
Chris is on the right track. A single a pane window is R1, the most expensive double pane window money can buy is R2.4. Not much difference, huh? Glass gets cold, excessive moisture in the room is condensing on the glass, that simple. Either stop breathing or get some air moving through the room or lower the humidity in the house or that room with a ...
I'm no plumber, but I did just install my own sprinkler system. That looks like a reduced pressure assembly used for backflow prevention. the little screwdriver valves at bleeder. You should only need to touch them if Water comes out. With the main water under the house on, turn on the the big valve closest to the house first, then the second valve ...
The "article" you linked to is written by the manufacturer of STA-BIL, a brand of fuel stabilizer. So I would take the entire thing with an enormous grain of salt. I don't see how you can go wrong following the advice of the lawn mower manufactorer. Personally for my small engines I switch to stabilized fuel sometime in the fall so that it works its way ...
Cover your air conditioning condenser to prevent snow/ice buildup. Before covering, be sure to clean off the coil, and inspect for any damage.
You can use fiberglass batts, but don't leave them exposed to the elements (or the wildlife, for whom it makes perfect nesting material). One option I've seen used for covering up this sort of thing is vinyl soffit. If there's room you can install nailing cleats inside the bumpout's rim joist so the soffit material is held up inside the rim and is not ...
I agree that it is important to make sure the windows are sealed and properly weatherstripped. All windows regardless of age transfer a lot of heat. With some older windows and in older houses, the discomfort that a lot of people feel is actually air transfer moving through the windows. Sealing gaps (if you have new windows but the old weight cavities are ...
If you have no space in a garage or shed (like me) then outside is your only option. I use a 20'x20' plastic tarp tied around my four patio chairs and table on my deck. They've survived 6 Minnesota winters. After a big snowfall, sometimes I'll sweep the snow off if it accumulates.
You are correct that having a hot radiator on what's effectively a cold space - the porch - is very inefficient and, presuming nobody's on the porch most of the time, wastes a lot of energy. And you are correct that the hot water going into that radiator is being cooled in the process. However, it is unlikely that the water is going to any other radiators, ...
Get a window insulator kit. It is made of a clear, plastic material that goes over the window, with double-sided tape around the edges to seal it. It's easy to set up and helps a lot with drafty windows.
That sounds like it would work but its involved. I do what you do and use the double stick tape on the flat top of the sill. Then before I shrink the plastic I get normal clear packaging tape and go around the whole window again. I get a lot of draft and condensation and over the years this technique evolved and seems to work.
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