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I may not be able to tell you who the manufacturer is, for the letters you found on the glass may be the insulated glass manufacturers initials, not the window makers. There should be someplace on the window, a window manufacturers label or something. The window, since the ballast has broken on one side has in essence, has tilted to one side, even though it ...


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The true answer is that it takes more energy to remove heat from a space than it does to add heat to a space. For every watt of heat you want to remove, you have to expend an additional 2 to 3 watts of heat just to carry that first watt away from the area. So, insulation will always be biased towards preventing heat ingress.


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I pride myself on being able to fix many things, but the inside of window that's probably gas sealed isn't one of them (maybe someone else here can chime in with some window magic). Replacing the window package I could do; fix your window, not so much. If you can get the window out of the frame and take it somewhere, it'd be cheaper but you're most likely ...


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If this is a cold climate, keep in mind you will want insulation. Also need to consider issues of condensation or wicking. You will want a moisture and vapour barrier between any wood and concrete. Also consider foam insulation between metal and wood to avoid moisture from condensation when water vapour in the air meets cold metal. Other than that there ...


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Walk into a fabric store and ask for advice on making "blackout drapes". They'll sell you something suitably heavy for the purpose; this is a fairly standard request. Adding that behind a cheap set of drapes,or getting a more attractive face fabric to sandwich it with, will do a pretty good job of blocking outside light; not completely but you did ask for a ...


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What I've done in the past is use Command Adhesive hooks to hold a curtain rod, then hang a curtain from that. This is rental-friendly, as there are no permanent hangers installed, and it can be moved as needed. It's a bit more expensive than cardboard, but should have a better appearance.


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A sheet of cardboard cut to fit the window frame tightly. With a small finger hole or notch cut out so you can pull it out easily. Thick cardboard would be best so it doesnt bend. Practically free, blocks all light, does no damage, and can easily be removed in the morning and put back in at night.


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I called a well-regarded Chicago-area window company and gave them the specifics. From our discussion, it sounds like replacing the hardware might be a possibility depending upon the manufacturer. Otherwise, the wall from the top two pictures should be about $8,000 to replace just the lower sliding glass doors and the stationary panels to the left and ...


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Yes there should be flashing but that isn't the main issue. This is the architect's problem. The top of your molding is flat. Where do you think water will go on a flat surface? It will sit on it. It will then seep into the wood and to the wood underneath it, slowly water logging and rotting all of it. If someone showed me your new molding I would ...


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In that third photo, it doesn't look like there's any flashing at all! Whenever there's an opening in an exterior wall, there should be flashing at the top that runs from inside the siding to cover the top surfaces of the trim around the opening.


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Using treated lumber, you can attach the framing using a combination of suitable adhesive and concrete anchors like tapcons. Consider, though, whether you'll have moisture issues between your plywood (or finished surface) and the concrete. How do you plan to seal and insulate, or do you?


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Many single and double-hung vinyl windows have "spiral sash balances". An internet search of that term will reveal a lot of info. They are replaceable but it is not simple, and finding the right size can be a challenge also. If the windows are old consider a DIY replacement of the entire window unit with an easily installed block frame replacement window.


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This is the classic case of condensation problem. My guess is that PVC windows haven't been placed on your building originally, but something you put recently. The other problem (I'm guessing) is that you have no thermal insulation on outside walls or it poor. Furthermore jambs around your windows are most probably faulty. All of this has contributed to your ...


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Use sponges soak with salt water and let dry. Then put sponges near windows which will absorb excess water. It is old family trick we have used for many generations now.


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Quality sliding PVC windows use rollers. Keep the tracks clean, using a slightly damp lint-free cloth. The rollers take care of themselves. On cheap PVC sliders, I use paste wax after cleaning the slot with a slightly damp lint-free cloth. You can also use spray silicone. Clean the track with a slightly damp lint-free cloth. Spray the silicone on another ...



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