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Backer rod and sealant can fill the joint. Provided the installation prevents bulk water infiltration, it provides an additional layer of protection. If the joint currently allows the passage of water, this is a stopgap versus reinstalling the windows properly.


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The wood may give the impression of feeling firm but could very well be beyond recovery. You should try probing the wood with a narrow pointed tool such a flat blade screwdriver. If you can push the tool into the wood any amount then it is a pretty good indication that this needs replacement. Replacement of the outside window trim can involve a lot of ...


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It looks to me like the window unit itself (what looks to be the newer vinyl clad window) may have been installed over the original sill and inside the frame of the original window. No telling why this may have been done other than to avoid having to deal with the interface between the old frame and siding. Anyway it looks like insulation was shoved up ...


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You can do any of 5 things: 1) Install a window opening alarm half way up the window (So they have to open the window a lot before they can reach in and shut it off). 2) Get a glass break alarm (Goes well with #1). If someone shatters your window, this bad boy will kick in and wake the dead! 3) Assuming your window opens up vertically, get a stick ...


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In many cases, repair of really old wood windows can be as or more expensive than replacement due to a variety of factors, one of which you have found--unavailability of off-the-shelf replacement parts. And after you're done, you still have leaky, single-glazed windows! I would only consider repairing these windows if they have architectural or historical ...


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Air Sealing Your Home -energy.gov Although there are some good suggestions here, I hate temporary solutions to permanent problems. Your main one being AIR INFILTRATION. How to install a door sweep. How to seal windows and doors. In Chicago, from September 15th to June 1st, "it is the landlord’s responsibility to ensure that the heater can heat ...


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I know around here there is a kind of temporary transparent caulking that can be put around windows and such to prevent air flow. In the winter, it prevents cold air to come in, and in the summer it can be put around window air conditioning units to prevent warm air from coming in and cool air from going out. This type of caulking is easy to remove at the ...


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First, kill the mold with bleach and wipe down the whole area to try to get rid of as many spores as possible. Next, identify and treat the root cause. Mold at the bottom of the inside would suggest that interior condensation is pooling there. Window condensation is caused by two factors: Interior glass temperatures below the dew point Humid enough ...


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To wipe, wear gloves and make a bucket of diluted Bleach (1 part bleach, 9 parts water). Use a rag or sponge to wipe the mold and clean the rag often in the bleach solution. The bleach will kill the mold and the damp rag will keep the spores down.


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Looking at the pictures I would say leave the steel and clean it up. The steel may be a lot tougher to remove then it looks. Might have pins into the wall or be hooked into rebar. It also looks like the steel was there when they poured the wall, making it real tough to remove. IMHO it might prove easier to cover the stuff with then remove it.


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if you are not allowed to add anything to the door you can buy a long round cushion that you put in front of the door (or train your dog to do that :) ) If you are allowed to add something to the door you can install a sweep:


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You need to add a threshold to the door to seal under it. There a number of thresholds where you can then adjust the height to meet the bottom of the door. Around the other 3 sides you need to add weather stripping.


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Since making modifications is out of the question, you might want to consider a portable alarm system. These are designed for apartments and most have glass break sensors you can add to the window.


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Depending on the manufacturer, drilling new weep holes will void the warranty . Then again, so will installing sideways! Now that is out of the way, I would recommend sealing the original weep holes on the side frame and matching the area of the holes sealed, along the bottom of the frame. Multiple small holes would work, but could get clogged by insects, ...


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From personal experience, installing a nail in every hole is wasting time and materiel. Most instructions recommend every other hole, which will cover any unlikely warranty issues. A good resource for this question can be found at This Old House. I find that "This Old House" is a great resource for learning the proper way to accomplish construction tasks. ...


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Probably a case where the window can look good from the outside, or the inside but not both due to the way the house was constructed. They chose to not make it look like an eyesore from the outside where everyone walking by would notice it. It's one of the irritating factors of retrofitting something into something that was never built to those dimensions. ...


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An outside mount with no sill would at least give you a drip edge there. It's just installation step one: rest on sill. So be careful trying to mount an exterior one. For an inside mount, remove and measure the screen. Have them replicated as storms and hold them in with clips to promote annual use. Caulk it shut if you must. And the rest of your trim while ...



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