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21

Even if the windows were super thick, it wouldn't be strong enough to handle the pressure exerted by a properly positioned ladder. A ladder is supposed to be sloped 25%, like this: With someone standing near the top of the ladder, that means roughly 20% of his weight is directed as lateral force, directly into the wall or window, conveyed by the points ...


16

Don't do it. Put the ladder above the window, then clean by putting your arms through the rungs. Shouldn't the windows have a way to tilt them inward and clean from inside the house? Most every modern window I've seen has a way to do that. You may want to get a ladder stabilizer:


10

Either use a A frame ladder or a squeegee on a pole. I personally wouldn't trust my health on the structural strength of glass.


7

Tubular skylights, a suntube in use and available from Solatube. There's roofing and carpentry involved but no framing needed. They're the only way to have a skylight with an attic above without blowing out your ceiling. Cut 2 holes, flash it to the roof, enjoy.


6

Cardboard, and tape. Probably the cheapest option, as you can probably acquire the cardboard for free.


5

Low-E windows are designed with material inside the glass or layered on it at the time of manufacture. Argon Gas windows are multiple-pane windows that are air-tight with the gap between the panes filled with argon at assembly. It is possible to get windows that are both at once. A Google search for Argon Windows brings up several links explaining Low-E ...


5

One of the main purposes of moldings, such as the trim around doors and windows (called casings), is to act as a barrier and seal to wind and water intrusion. Moldings on wall between vertical boards, called battens served a similar purpose. The decorative element was an extra benefit (unless you are an extreme modernist/minimalist who wants totally flat ...


4

The idea of removing the glass and replacing with wood is reasonably practical. Since the glass is relatively thin you would need to replace with a relatively thin wood piece. I would think that 1/4" or maybe 3/8" thick plywood would be able to be used in place of the glass. There are a number of things to consider though before embarking on this approach. ...


4

I would suggest a quick visit to any building supply recycling type place near you to see if you can simply grab an inexpensive replacement door that's already better suited to installing a pet-door in - you may have structural issues with this door if you cut away a significant part of the bottom to insert a pet door. Replacing glass panels with wood is not ...


4

Get a combo sponge / squeegee on an extendable pole. They work very well. It is also possible to get these window washing soap bottles that have an integrated sprayer mechanism. You attach these to a garden hose for water. They easily can spray a nice and vigorous soapy stream or water at the windows over 20 feet (like 6 meters) high. Normally the ...


4

Use something like Goof Off or Goo Gone to dissolve the solvent, or something with orange oil in it, and then scrape it off. You might have to repeat a couple of times. BTW, taping windows provides no additional protection during a hurricane. Don't bother.


4

A sheet of cardboard cut to fit the window frame tightly. With a small finger hole or notch cut out so you can pull it out easily. Thick cardboard would be best so it doesnt bend. Practically free, blocks all light, does no damage, and can easily be removed in the morning and put back in at night.


3

First, kill the mold with bleach and wipe down the whole area to try to get rid of as many spores as possible. Next, identify and treat the root cause. Mold at the bottom of the inside would suggest that interior condensation is pooling there. Window condensation is caused by two factors: Interior glass temperatures below the dew point Humid enough ...


3

I don't like this question, simply because there are too many variables. "CAN it be detrimental?" Well... Windows come in single, double and triple pane; made from glass or plastic; have different insulation systems between panes, have different natural coatings and compositions for various properties such as UV protection or reflection; and many other ...


3

Depending on the size, weight would be my only structural concern. A large window well filled only with concrete is going to weigh a ton. That could potentially put unwanted pressure on the foundation. The windows should be blocked/bricked in, add some below grade sealer/barrier (whatever the foundation of the building is made of), the hole filled with ...


3

Specifically (without getting into product recommendations), look for "static cling film" as opposed to an adhesive product. You can get both mirrored and "stained glass" versions - they apply with water and a squeegee, and peel off again without a fight or residue. "Privacy film" is another search term; or "window privacy film." The stained glass or ...


3

I had never seen these before, but I was finally able to track down some information and replace them. My windows bear a "Viking" name, but I didn't find anyone selling parts under that name. However, the useful term for these are "channel balance" or "block and tackle balance" windows. With that term, it's possible to find replacement parts and even some ...


2

If you're building custom frames, take a scrap piece of the frame, cut it to the inside width of your frame, use it as a temporary support... like a cross bar... if you do not have extra material, or you're re-screening old frames, maybe a thin piece of wood will work for your temporary cross bar? Also, I like to use a T-square, it helps keep the frame ...


2

I have migrane headaches and have to have a completely dark room to sleep. I bought solid pink insulation and cut it to fit my windows. painted the side one side white and then still hung blackout curtains. you can not see your hand in front of your face in the middle of the day, but you can sleep.


2

It used to be that such a window had to have tempered safety glass, now: 2006 IRC: R613.2 Window Sills. In dwelling units, where the opening of an operable window is located more than 72 inches above the finished grade or surface below, the lowest part of the clear opening of the window shall be a minimum of 24 inches above the finished floor of the room ...


2

I am a graveyard shift worker. I found the best solution is a cheap sleep mask you can get at Walgreens. Total blackout for you leaves light when you want it. Not being sarcastic, just this is what I found over years trying to sleep during the day.


2

I typically use Goo Gone (US product), will remove most. Rubbing Alcohol is another item that works for some adhesive. Or clorox wipes also works on some.


2

The short answer is maybe, it really depends on what it was affixed with and how thick the granite piece is. The key to removing it (or anything) without breaking it will be to have multiple pry points simultaneously, or use a piece of wood (2x4) so that you are prying against the wood which can then spread the strain you are putting on the granite piece. ...


2

You need to add a threshold to the door to seal under it. There a number of thresholds where you can then adjust the height to meet the bottom of the door. Around the other 3 sides you need to add weather stripping.


2

Since making modifications is out of the question, you might want to consider a portable alarm system. These are designed for apartments and most have glass break sensors you can add to the window.


2

I know around here there is a kind of temporary transparent caulking that can be put around windows and such to prevent air flow. In the winter, it prevents cold air to come in, and in the summer it can be put around window air conditioning units to prevent warm air from coming in and cool air from going out. This type of caulking is easy to remove at the ...


2

An outside mount with no sill would at least give you a drip edge there. It's just installation step one: rest on sill. So be careful trying to mount an exterior one. For an inside mount, remove and measure the screen. Have them replicated as storms and hold them in with clips to promote annual use. Caulk it shut if you must. And the rest of your trim while ...


2

In many cases, repair of really old wood windows can be as or more expensive than replacement due to a variety of factors, one of which you have found--unavailability of off-the-shelf replacement parts. And after you're done, you still have leaky, single-glazed windows! I would only consider repairing these windows if they have architectural or historical ...


2

You can purhcase products such as DampRid. It is availabe in various size packages and will work to passively dehumidify a space. You do not want to use a fan or any active air mover to attempt to dry the window space. This can enable the mold to spread to other areas. Mold is dangerous to your health and this issue should be handled soon. One point of ...


2

Your problem is probably caused by the steam from showering condensing on and around your windows. I would recommend keeping the bathroom door closed while you shower and turning the exhaust fan on while you shower and for at least a half hour after. This will greatly reduce the moisture in your apartment. On warmer days it would also help to crack your ...



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