Tag Info

Hot answers tagged

7

Tubular skylights, a suntube in use and available from Solatube. There's roofing and carpentry involved but no framing needed. They're the only way to have a skylight with an attic above without blowing out your ceiling. Cut 2 holes, flash it to the roof, enjoy.


6

1. New roof. If you've got a leaky roof, you've got big problems. 2. New Siding. Since it sounds like you'll be adjusting the thickness of the walls, it makes sense to complete this job before anything else that will be installed on/in the wall. 3. New Gutters. Depending on what shape the gutters are in, this might move up or down the list. If they are ...


5

Passive infrared sensors (PIR), use Infrared (IR) light to detect motion. Unfortunately for you, infrared light does not travel through glass so well.


5

An arch (if engineered correctly) is self supporting. No need for a lintel at all. From the looks of it, that arch is more than adequate to hold the brick above so I'd say that wooden piece is merely a filler--not a structural element.


4

Most code states that all railing balusters must be spaced no more than 4" apart to prevent a child from inserting their head. So, that is one measurement you could use...if you don't want anyone's head to get through: 4". Of course, also make sure you can't get an arm through that could reach the window lock. Edit by OP: According to ...


4

There are two things working together to make water condense on the windows. The house is humid, and the windows are cold (even well-insulated windows will usually be the coldest thing in the house because of the low R-value compared to walls and ceilings). To prevent the condensation, you can remove the humidity or make the windows warmer. Removing ...


4

Very interesting situation. First off, replacing perfectly good vinyl windows is not going to help you from what I see on your pics. Simple weeping drains around windows is not going to help much with all the moisture I see on walls, ceilings and floor. I would suggest you have someone come in with an infrared scanner and make a sweep of the building to ...


4

You may be able to run the screw right into the framing with out using the anchors. It will hold much better if it is framing and not wood lath or masonry. if the brackets are directly over the window, you may have found the header.


4

The only logical that comes to my mind is an awning of some sort. If you get a big enough one, most direct light will be lost and you should have the same amount of airflow.


3

Rough openings are exactly as they are called, rough. Yours sounds extra rough though. All rough openings are made to have space to add shims, sometimes the rough openings, because of conditions, can only take shims on one side or the other. As a rule of thumb I usually do not use no more than 2 shims on a side. If the rough opening (RO) has need for more, ...


3

I realize that you don't want to proceed with the project but I thought I'd answer anyway in case someone else is curious. I am a licensed contractor and my company specializes in basement remodeling; we have done several window expansions or additions in concrete foundations. A few things: You definitely need a permit for this project (though you don't ...


3

Removal is your best bet. Whether you use a heat gun, which much care will be needed since burning what will be bare wood eventually can easily occur. Also you will need to wear a respirator to get past any harmful fumes from the off gassing of the heated paint. Various shapes of scrapers will still be needed to clear out the crevices to freshen up the look ...


3

The oil that you applied to the crank joints is doing several things. Foremost it has eliminated the dryness in the joints that led to the squeaking. It is flushing out the years worth of wear dust and particulate that collected in the joints from operating them without lubrication. Oil present on the joints now will be a magnet for new dust and dirt from ...


3

Your options are: Use a second layer of 1/2" drywall to bring the wall flush to the window; Trim the window casing down by 1/2"; or Use inch thick trim on the window casing. Personally I recommend #2 and would use what's called a Japanese saw: or a multi-tool with a wood blade to trim the casing down to be flush with the wall.


3

The usual approach is a "crank-type" casement window with a loop in place of the crank handle, and a hook on a pole (try "clerestory pole crank" as a search term) that engages the loop. There are also hex-type versions that use a flexible shaft inside the pole. Or, these days, motors. I'd suggest the hook on a pole, I view motors in this sort of application ...


3

First, kill the mold with bleach and wipe down the whole area to try to get rid of as many spores as possible. Next, identify and treat the root cause. Mold at the bottom of the inside would suggest that interior condensation is pooling there. Window condensation is caused by two factors: Interior glass temperatures below the dew point Humid enough ...


2

I have migrane headaches and have to have a completely dark room to sleep. I bought solid pink insulation and cut it to fit my windows. painted the side one side white and then still hung blackout curtains. you can not see your hand in front of your face in the middle of the day, but you can sleep.


2

We just ordered replacement windows but no-one told us the amount of viewing area that we would lose. Since one reason we we bought our house was for the views, we were devastated when we saw the windows and sent them away. For example, our two kitchen casement windows which have 16" of glass each would have been reduced to just over 12" of glass each. ...


2

You can stack molding. Perhaps a piece of square stock, then a separate quarter round "shoe molding" as you illustrated. Be sure to keep your hardwood floor expansion gap intact. Complex molding is often built up from simpler shapes: once painted you never notice.


2

I like the answer JonW gave, but also would suggest just putting an awning over your existing window and opening it from the top as it's likely to be a bit less expensive. Edit: I passed this house fixed type awning system and decided to grab a shot to add t this post


2

You can get a Tilt and Turn window - a window that tilts inwards slightly (and locks in place so that it doesn't tip back anymore) to let air circulate, but can also be opened as a traditional window too (albeit one that typically opens inwards instead of outwards).


2

This tree, not the one you should be barking up, is. PIRs do NOT work though glass. Put it outside.


2

Those 27 inch blinds you link to are top mount and will fit in a 27.5 inch opening without modification. But there are also side mount ones that would also work but you would need to add a 1/4 inch shim to both sides or a 1/2 inch shim to one side. Most blinds can't be simply cut down in width except those that are designed to be cut to length.


2

They are called safety cup hooks and have been cleverly repurposed. Links are for illustration purposes only. No product or source is being endorsed.


2

These are called spring balances, and have enough tension in the spring to hold the window open (sorry about your hand). It's kind of hard to tell from the pictures you posted what type they are (other than older ones), but you should be able to find some instructions for a model similar to yours now that you know what to search for. In general, you'll ...


2

Any solution will be a compromise. The more light you block, the more air you will also block. You want something opaque and dark and non-reflective and adjustable. Some sort of slat blinds is a common solution, but if you have room to install a device away from the window, some other creative opportunities exist to block direct light but allow airflow ...


2

Soundproofing as it relates to windows is all about mass -- the denser the materials, the more sound reduction you'll get. PVC is, indeed, typically more dense than the far more lightweight aluminium and so will will resist noise transfer more. However, the amount of surface area made up by the frame is absolutely dwarfed by the glass itself. Any ...


2

It's a slider, as @bib says. No "special precautions" having to do with it being a slider when replacing - the precaution for any window opening (new or replacement) is accurate size/measurements, and careful attention to flashing to direct water correctly (the new window should have detailed instructions.) It's also normal and expected that the window does ...


2

Whomever told you that hurricane windows are "required" wasn't being exactly truthful. The only requirement is that the window opening must be hurricane compliant which can be achieved through a combination of windows and shutters and will eliminate window breakage. The biggest drawback of hurricane impact windows (besides price) is that they will not ...


2

I have removed these before. A cut at the bottom bar, which is not anchored into the sill the way the sides and head is. When cut, the 2 bottom corners can draw in, allowing the flanges on the sides to begin to withdraw from the groove they are mudded into. You may want to nick the upper inside corners to make it easier to bend inwards. They might even snap ...



Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible