Hot answers tagged windows
We were all young once. You need a Torx screwdriver of the appropriate size https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torx Actually due to the pin in the middle it is more technically security Torx. Harbour Freight will get you out of trouble cheaply.
There may be a brick that has that shape already, but I have not seen any. If there were, they would be custom ordered. To match your brick you have in place would even be a taller order. Bricks made in one time of year under the same name will differ in color and texture to a degree from brick of the same name from the same company, just made at a different ...
In a miter joint you're gluing end grain to end grain. That's inherently weaker than most joints. If you really want this appearance, at least spline the corners so there's significant long-grain gluing area. A mitered half-lap would be another possibility, or one of the other joints that mimics a miter in appearance but has something stronger underneath ...
You will need all 8' material. The amount of waste you will have would be minimal Any of the numbers do not add up to 96". The stretchers will also work with 8" stock too, with little waste. There you will in essence be using 24" and 32 " lengths. Cut everything to a rough length, then set up jigs to make your repeat cuts.
The nailing flanges are never put under the sheathing. The window goes in after sheathing is installed, then usually the trim is applied then the siding ran to the trim with a head flashing over the window and head trim. These days that is forgotten, either the carpenters don't care, or don't know. I have seen many windows trimmed out over the siding, as is ...
You might be looking for "plinth stretchers". Some of our sills are made from these (UK). See for example special shaped bricks.
You ignore the primary purpose of awnings - which is to ventilate. Awnings are primarily 'air scoops'. As wind encounters a structure it has to flow up or around the object. Awnings, and awning type windows, serve to 'catch' this upward flowing air and direct it into the open window. A simple double hung window captures only the air flow which directly ...
Cut out the plate at the wall. let the drywall run up to the window and add a minor piece of wood, something like lattice to cover the difference at the edge of the window to the new ceiling extension. It may take 2 pieces to form a new corner at the window, but I think the corner would be better at the window rather than at the wall face.
The sash were set in place with the guides. To remove them you will need to remove the inside window stops to expose the edge of the track. You will also need to remove the fasteners that are in the track, one of which is visible in your picture at the bottom. There may only be that one fastener, but there should be another at the top, and depending on the ...
If it is a place where water can get in, it needs to be touched up. There are places where caulk should not be used so it will act like a weep hole. Since there is no picture to see the condition of the caulk, I can only assume the missing caulk is in a place where water can get in.
I have large sash windows and what I do is fill in all the gaps with foam roll and then use big sheets of bubble wrap and tape up the edges. It helps and isn't expensive. Easy to remove too if you want to reopen windows.
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