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7

Tubular skylights, a suntube in use and available from Solatube. There's roofing and carpentry involved but no framing needed. They're the only way to have a skylight with an attic above without blowing out your ceiling. Cut 2 holes, flash it to the roof, enjoy.


3

The usual approach is a "crank-type" casement window with a loop in place of the crank handle, and a hook on a pole (try "clerestory pole crank" as a search term) that engages the loop. There are also hex-type versions that use a flexible shaft inside the pole. Or, these days, motors. I'd suggest the hook on a pole, I view motors in this sort of application ...


2

It used to be that such a window had to have tempered safety glass, now: 2006 IRC: R613.2 Window Sills. In dwelling units, where the opening of an operable window is located more than 72 inches above the finished grade or surface below, the lowest part of the clear opening of the window shall be a minimum of 24 inches above the finished floor of the room ...


2

I have migrane headaches and have to have a completely dark room to sleep. I bought solid pink insulation and cut it to fit my windows. painted the side one side white and then still hung blackout curtains. you can not see your hand in front of your face in the middle of the day, but you can sleep.


2

I typically use Goo Gone (US product), will remove most. Rubbing Alcohol is another item that works for some adhesive. Or clorox wipes also works on some.


2

The short answer is maybe, it really depends on what it was affixed with and how thick the granite piece is. The key to removing it (or anything) without breaking it will be to have multiple pry points simultaneously, or use a piece of wood (2x4) so that you are prying against the wood which can then spread the strain you are putting on the granite piece. ...


1

Galvalume is a trade name and is not the same material as galvanized steel. Englert, a major roofing manufacturer has a good technical description that specifically cautions against placing Galvalume in contact with mortar. Believe it or not, the entire construction is not comprised of imbeciles, and building codes actually provide sound guidance in regard ...


1

A vibrating Multi-Tool (Dremel multimax etc) will work great on this. Mark with a line and cut freehand, you can easily get within 1/8th inch.


1

If you happen to have one, or can get one cheaply, a rotary drywall "saw" or cutout tool (more like a router, really) will do everything but the extreme corners quickly and easily (and very, very messily/dustily - a shop vacuum is highly recommended as well.) Depending how many windows you have to do, it might or might not make sense - or your local tool ...


1

The right tool in this case is the good old fashioned razor knife. (handle with a razor blade in it). Like this: I suggest utilizing a strait edge to make sure you cut a good line. I personally use my 4' aluminum level.


1

Many air conditioners have a "fresh air" setting; at that setting, they blow air from outdoors into the house. Although it does cost electricity, it's better than opening the window because it moves are even on dead-still days.


1

If you don't mind the loss of light from the window, a louver could be installed.


1

All things being equal (airspace, glass, spacer) Krypton is more efficient than Argon. Krypton works better when the airspace is reduced. However that does not mean that it is less efficient than Argon. Its not a gimmick. Read this Article. It has a chart showing the airspace and Argon / Krypton efficiencies. Even Xenon! Triple glazing may or may not ...



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