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14

If this is a submersible pump in a fairly shallow well and it is running continuously and only putting out 20psi, you have several possible problems: The impeller assembly is coming apart and there is excessive internal leakage in the pump. There is a leak in the pipe leading from the pump to the well-head, either the pipe has split, or the barb fitting ...


11

If the pump is a 3-wire submersible with a control box, you can do some basic troubleshooting with an ohm meter without pulling it. If you have a control box like this: Then you can pull the top off. Inside there are terminals that have black, yellow and red wires that go to the pump. Inside the cover of the control box, it will tell you the resistance ...


7

The biggest difference in solid and stranded is the flexibility of stranded. It is easier to pull and bend. One does not handle more amperage or voltage than the other, unless you get into fine stranded cable like a battery or welder, which are not used as building wire.


6

Typically 100psi poly is used (it's a black flexible pipe with a blue stripe). You should be using brass or poly fittings. I personally avoid nylon, just because with the threaded parts it tends to have the tool grip worn down - it's especially a pain when you go to take it off years after it's been put on, and you need to apply a lot of torque: it tends to ...


5

A larger tank will cause the cycles to be longer (slower), but overall the runtime will be the same (if you use 500 gallons of water, the pump has to supply 500 gallons of water). For example, if the tank is full and you open a tap, with a 36 gallon tank it may take 60 seconds before the pump starts, and then 30 seconds to run, and repeat. With a 55 gallon, ...


4

The part that jumped out at me is this: "4" well with a submerged pump and a pressure tank in the garage." How big is your pressure tank? My guess is that the greater water draw of a 1/2 or 5/8 inch hose can drain the tank in 15 minutes. The washer or shower has a much lower flow rate in gallons per minute used than a hose. When the pressure is low from ...


4

At 2.5 GPM, your 2-3 minutes of shower time between cycles is using between 5 and 7.5 gallons. If your tank starts at 60psi and 7.5 gallons is enough to bring it down to 40psi, that means you're starting out with 15 gallons of air in your 40 gallon tank, and ending the 3-minute cycle with 22.5 gallons of air. I calculated this using Boyle's law, or P1 * V1 ...


3

Think of the electricity flowing into your house just like water flowing through a pipe. If you turn on a faucet only halfway then you will probably not notice a drop in pressure elsewhere in the house. But if your washing machine is filling (or your irrigation system kicks in, etc.) then you will see reduced pressure elsewhere in the house. The ...


3

From my answer before: When you connect this pipe to the fittings, you'll need to heat it up (I prefer MEP gas but propane works as well) just enough so it can go on (you still need to apply a bit of force). If you heat it too much to the point it stretches, you'll weaken the pipe and probably cause a leak - if you do this, cut the end off and start ...


3

The short answer is, depending on the source of the water table, it should fill back up over time. But there are many reasons, other than you leaving the hose on for a day, why your well can run dry. Are there any new building developments in the area? Is your region suffering from low rain or snow fall this year? Or, if there's excessive rain/snowfall, ...


3

There's trouble with the pressure tank. You are right to be concerned. Its bad for the pump to be running constantly. Is there a pressure gauge? What does it read? Is the P-Tank full of water? It could be simply needs to be charged with air compressor. When was last time?


3

Turn off the power to the pump. Turn off the feed to the house (there should be a valve between the pressure tank and rest of house). This is simply to make the next step easier. Drain any water from the pipes where the pressure switch is screwed in. Usually there is a sed valve. Unscrew the existing gauge. Check the T where the gauge was screwed in for ...


3

I'd guess that the recovery rate on your well is sufficient for your daily use, but not for the extended used that occured with the hose. As a result, the water level in your well has probably dropped to the point that the intake tube isn't completely submerged, so it's drawing less water. If you can reduce your water usage for a few days, it will likely ...


3

We did turn off the water last night and the power to the water pump and found that over a couple hours time we lost all the water in our reserve tank. Does this sound like a leak to you? Maybe. Was the reservoir tank cut off (like with a valve) from draining back down the well? If there is a check valve, is it in good working order? If not, it is ...


3

I would believe the pump isn't keeping up with demand and the pressure tank is supplementing it for the first 15 minutes. Where I live the pump can run at full steam and the pressure tank is used for reducing the number of times the pump turns on and off. Test - Turn off the pump attach a hose closest to the pump and drain the water tank. Leaving the ...


3

I had the very same question when I sized my generator to run my well-pump during power outages. I purchased a clamp meter for under $100 and tested the pump on household current. I simply attached the meter to the hot line and then turned on the pump. My pump is 220 volt with two hot wires so I had to multiply the results by 2. Unfortunately, I have ...


1

I do not have a well, and not a water expert, but I have a recurring water leak problem and thought I'd share my experience in case it helps. I recently experienced a problem similar to what you described - water kept running but nothing I could touch was leaking. I could hear water running (high pitch sound), but could not locate the leak. I finally ...


1

Thats right. You need air in the tank. OR the bladder has ruptured. Either way you need air in the tank, and likely need to put more air in about twice a year until you replace the P tank.


1

I figured it out. It turns out that part 16 (gasket) and 17 (cast-iron seal plate) (which to me, looked like part of the casing (part 1) came apart to allow the casing to slide off. I didn't realize they were separate from the casing as they were flush with it and painted the same blue color all over. The two pieces popped apart fairly effortlessly at the ...


1

I am surprised no one mentioned at leak in the pipe from the well to the house(s). That can cause quite a bit of water usage. Look for water standing between the house and the well. It helps if you know roughly where the pipe runs. A couple years ago I hit almost 90 dollars in usage in one month. Normal is around 25 dollars. From there either start digging ...


1

You face two challenges here: silt and moisture. Silt could gum up brushings (if present) or bearings. Assuming the pump is full of clean water the usual drying techniques apply: Disassemble to the greatest degree reasonable. Rinse with clean water (no need to be shy for a pump). Use compressed air to blow water out. A bike pump works in a pinch. Use a ...


1

Provided that the motor did not run while wet, then the windings are probably fine because they are encased in enamel. But if it's still wet inside, or dirty, or you have a seized bearing, then trying to run it could burn out the windings. At that point you're looking at replacing the stator or the whole motor. So the question of whether to run it or not ...


1

If you already own the generator I say go for it and try it out. If the generator is anywhere decent then it will regulate the voltage more than enough for a motor so you won't over power the motor with voltage. If the generator can't handle it you will not harm the motor unless you are able to stall it for an extended period of time; the generator shouldn't ...


1

It's possible it's the pressure tank. To check the pre-charge, turn the pump off, and then open a faucet to let all the water out. Check the pressure in the tank using a tire pressure gauge (there is a valve on the top). This should be 2-10 PSI below the "start" pressure of the pump: eg, if your pump comes on at 40psi (on at 40/off at 60 is the most common ...


1

Possibly a leak on the suction side of the pump pulling in air.


1

@TNT is close, but it is likely that the well itself isn't keeping up with demand (low yield). The well itself acts as a reservoir, and has water flowing into it from sand and fractures in the rock around it is drilled through. When the pump is off, the well will fill up a certain amount, after which point it will turn off. This is point is called the ...


1

According to the company that installed my well pump and pressure tank, they say that this thing happens. Apparently some bacteria and iron are producing stuff that is getting caught in the filter, and occasionally there is a large amount of this. Some people may have to replace their filter every week normally. As long as there's nothing that looks like ...


1

Thank you everyone for all the help. Since I couldn't get my mind around how adding another line would help without increasing the size of the main pipe; I decided to read the manual for the sprinkler head and found out that I could change the nozzle sizes. So, I replaced the nozzles with highest flow ones I could find and after 3 sprinklers, the well ...


1

"Cycling" in a pressure system is generally when the pump is turning on and off too quickly. Pressure systems are specifically designed so that the pump runs up to its maximum pressure, then you use water from the pressure tank, until it reaches the minimum pressure, at which point the pump turns back on and runs until it reaches the maximum. The ...



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