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Cover the entry with a roof, awning, etc. Wait until the door is dry and seal it with many layers of Tung oil, shellac, Varathane, or even a high quality paint (epoxy? or oil based paint) If the door opens inward, add an exterior water resistant door like a conventional screen door but which has windows in areas where the water strikes.


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You might consider replacing the wooden door with a fiberglass one. Metal would avoid the swelling issue, but likely suffer from rust/oxidation due to the wet environment.


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I would install an awning or porch roof extension out 3 feet from the building wall line to protect the door. They even make fabric type awnings that can roll up against the wall during nice weather times.


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I am going to guess that you have a wood door causing the problem. If you have checked the original installation and frame alignment and feel that cannot be changed, then the only real solution is to plane it down so it closes properly when damp or humid. You can install extra or new weatherstripping to assure it has a good airtight seal,especially in dryer ...


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My solution was to use a dishwasher hose drain kit, cutting the 'connector piece' until it just barely fit inside the original drainage hose. I then used a hose clamp to make the seal water tight.


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If the top is hinged and is overlapping the sides, you could put 1/4 to 1/2 inch rubber weather stripping on the inside of the cover or on the frame to give yourself a nice water resistant seal.


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For the lid, you'll need to support the decking as frequently as it is supported on the deck itself. If your deck joists run every 12" or 16", you'll need to replicate that or the lid will sag. The photo shows benches that are sixty inches long. You diagram show one support in the middle, leaving a 30" span. At summer temperatures, it will be sagging ...


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Easiest way is to buy some 20mm light duty flexible corrugated conduit from hardware store and pvc electrical conduit glue.run the glue around inside of end of drain hose and around the outside on the end of flexible corrugated conduit.insert conduit in end of drain hose,glue will dry in a few minutes or so and you are good to go with no leaks.or ...


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Replace this hose with a single long hose. Remove the hose that came with the unit and measure the size of the fitting it was attached to. Go to a good hardware or plumbing shop and buy a single length of heavy duty reinforced rubber hose and a hose clamp to fit. This is the only correct way to do it IMO.


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A) No. Nothing short of an unbroken membrane will resolve the issue. Even if you were to tar each row of shingles, you'd likely miss a few spots and have long-term damage. The right solution is a rolled roof or rubber membrane, possibly underneath shingles if aesthetics are a concern. B) See A. C) The question is too broad for the SE Q&A format. Ask ...



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