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It's not a pressure issue, but a volume issue. If you're on city water, then a water service from the meter to the house in 1"or 3/4" depending on the distance is in order. The main line under the house should be 3/4 and the branches will be 1/2. If it's on a community system, a pressure tank won't help, a jet pump would be the answer. But until you solve ...


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If you have to fiddle with it every two months, the air bag/bladder/diaphragm is leaking. If there is any sort of guarantee/warranty, you might want to use that. If not, you might want to select a different brand for the next one. As for the pressure, think of it as the lower end of the pressure you'd like to see supplied in the house when several things ...


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The only way that I know of to repair this kind of damage without replacing the pipe is to have an epoxy lining installed. What this essentially will do is add a tough epoxy coating to the entire pipe from the inside. This is something you would need a specialist for. The tools and materials are not readily available to a homeowner. An epoxy liner is not ...


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Option 1 - the valve (rarely operated) broke when operated and is not opening. Option 2 - deposits, disturbed by closing the valve and draining the plumbing, have plugged the pipes. For option 2, open whatever valves are nearest the valve, or open up unions and flush out whatever glop may be there if ANY water flows - and/or run a stiff wire into the pipe ...


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Follow the manufacturers instructions. New and higher priced DW's are more frequently starting to connect to cold water. The better dw's fill with so little water the the hot doesn't arrive anyway unless you let the sink water run like in the shower. Better energy efficient washers heat their own water to the proper temperature for better cleaning and ...


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Generally, law questions are off-topic, so I'll answer in a way that's broadly applicable. For the most part, building components that are no longer code-compliant are grandfathered in until work needs to be done on them. So if you have a section of galvanized pipe that's rusted or clogged, you'll have to replace that section with copper or something else ...


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This is a very common setup, and basically the situation in my house. What you need is called a shallow well jet pump, and I believe this is what you are seeing in the store. Your suspicion is correct - that local mechanic is wrong. Some notes: Size the pump 1/2 or 3/4 hp based on the flow rates and demands you expect. There's insufficient details to ...


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Lacking a specific brand from your question, I went and looked at http://www.screwfix.com/p/mapei-ultraplan-self-levelling-compound-grey-25kg/4959f Which states that it will cover (mixed) 6 square meters at 3mm thick. I make that 100cm x 600 cm x 0.3 cm or 18,000 cubic centimeters. Last I checked, 1000 CCs was a liter, so you have 6 liters of free space. ...


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That bucket is far too small. Normally, you want to get a "concrete mixing tub" (e.g., at Home Depot), which is broad enough to allow you to mix the water and the powder thoroughly. I usually use a garden hoe to do the mixing, which allows you to do it standing up. Also, the tub is very smooth on the bottom, which means that it's relatively easy to drag ...


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If you loosen the screw that holds the handle to the top of the actuator, you can push down on the screw and it will (should) disengage the gear drive in the actuator. That will allow you to move the valve. If the actuator is actually bad, any actuator made for operating Jandy valves can be used... You may have a power issue as well, no power and the valve ...


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Honestly, I would imagine your walls will be just fine with a little water running over them. The stone walls all over the Irish countryside have been standing for a year or two and seem to cope with the wet, cold North Sea coastal weather pretty well, and most of those aren't even set in mortar. ;-) What I definitely would do is consider what kind of ...


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It might be an indication that gas regulator on your water heater might be going bad or incorrectly adjusted. It sounds like it's allowing too much gas pressure and blowing out your pilot light. Your water heater should have a sticker that says what the regulator pressure should be set at. It will likely be listed in inches of water. Mine says 4"wc (wc = ...


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After being sure the water tank is full of water (which would not be the case after replacing an element) and the cutoff valve(s) are on, be sure the power is on. If you see voltage at the elements, it has got to be heating water. Unless they were not wired correctly. If you had just turned it back on, give it 10–20 minutes to detectably heat the ...


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Green is most likely algae, but it could be metals. You have to get your water tested for metals and phosphates (most pool stores will do this for free if you bring in a water sample), and then get rid of any measurable amounts using products designed for the purpose. Cloudiness is also consistent with both of those problems, but could be independent: If ...


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Why not create a flashing dam around the post areas? You could use a roll of sheet aluminum, maybe 6 inches wide. Put a crease down the middle to form an L shape. Scrub down the blocks and when dry, duct tape the bottom flange of the aluminum to the blocks. You can bend the corners by cutting the bottom flange to the crease or cut separate pieces and ...


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You need a brass connector. "1/2" female iron pipe" (1/2" FIP) is the size of the female connector on the end of the hose coming out of the sink plate in your picture; "3/8" female compression" is the size of the connector on the end of the hose coming out of the faucet in your picture. You need a 1/2" MIP (male iron pipe) X 3/8" male compression adapter. ...



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