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My thermostat stopped working, my electric water heater got too hot, and water boiled out of the T&P valve. I just had to replace the thermostat. Have it looked at by a plumber. So yes, this can be an intermittent thing. And yes, there could be a slow leak somewhere else. What type of WH is it? Gas, electric? Please add this answer to the bottom of ...


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So this is happening in separate bathrooms that is supplied by one water heater? You'd be surprised how quick you can go through 38 gallons of hot water especially with a high flow shower head. Newer shower heads are usually rated at 2.5 GPM, while older ones were much higher. Also check the timer on the heater. One other question, is the hot and cold ...


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If you have flexible piping running to the bottom of the faucet: turn off both the hot & cold the water supplies disconnect the piping from the faucet aim the hot water pipe into a bucket and turn the hot water back on (quickly turn it off, of course) repeat for the cold water side If you're getting water in the bucket, the faucet's the problem. If ...


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Most (virtually all) electric models have a non-obvious and inconvenient (but you don't usually need to adjust it that often) thermostat associated with each element. Since you need to expose the element electrical connections to see and adjust it, turn the power off first. Repeat - turn off the power to the water heater before looking for or adjusting the ...


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There is nothing about this condition that by itself suggests a leak. Common causes are your cold water pipes run near heating ducts or the furnace, or water from your hot water heater expanding back into the cold supply. Likewise, a warm spot on your floor could be from ducting, a light below, the sun hitting it through a window, etc. If there is a ...


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If you can't manually operate the handle, the actuator might not be at fault - the actual valve might be jammed (or the actuator might be jammed, keeping you from operating the valve by hand, I guess.) In any case, you should probably take the actuator off and verify if the valve can be operated by hand without it in place - if not, the new one won't have ...


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I would strongly suggest an "in the pipe" electric heating solution. Not to run all the time, but to be there if you need it, since this can be imperfect, to say the least, and it's a lot easier to plan ahead (and just be able to flip a switch until the water runs again) than to fix it when it's already frozen. I would not recommend this "instead" of the ...


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I think my first step in sorting this out would be to positively identify the feed from the supply main, shut it off at the main, cut this whole business out at least temporarily, and connect the house to the main without all this "stuff." If, as appears to be the case, the pressure from the main is being reduced before it's increased, something is just ...


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We have the answer - Talking with the well/plumbing company that we had replace a jet pump in a prior home years ago, as he heard the issue he offered "just what filter cartridge did you replace?" It was a sediment filter, and he asked whether I might have replaced it with a carbon filter instead, and that if I had, the pressure issue might be caused by much ...


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I think you have two completely separate issues that you became aware of at the same time, and which are mostly unrelated. Improperly set system and air pressures in bladder tanks. A note - the higher the system pressure, the less water storage (drawdown) in a bladder tank. So you might get better performance from a 40/60 or 30/50 setting. You are also ...


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Get a different water heater with larger fittings.


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Another option would be to not use the icemaker in the refrigerator, and replace it with a countertop icemaker: These are available in different capacities (and prices), and many are designed with a refillable water reservoir so it doesn't need to be connected to a water line. As an added bonus, if your refrigerator icemaker is removable, you can free up ...


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My refrigerator instructions (28 cuft frigidaire) says minimum of 20psi is needed. You may want to check this product called flojet bw4000, which is the simplest most reliable solution for using bottled water (5 gallon). It can sit on the floor, or inside cabinet up to 20 feet away from your fridge.


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Wanted to add to this... I had the same problem this morning, i.e. 1 - no hot water 2 - no error codes on unit We had a snow storm the evening before, and my son piled snow in front of the vent/exhaust. The unit has a safety feature and won't make hot water if it can't exhaust. Cleared the snow, hot water returned!


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You have the idea of it, I think, so long as you're not going for something cockamaimie like tying the air charge sides together. I don't actually think you are saying that; in any case, don't do that. You just set those both 2 psi below the cut-in (ie, 18 PSI for a 20/40, 28 PSI for a 30/50 38 PSI for a 40/60 pressure switch setting, with the water side ...


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Are you saying that your apartment has one water heater that only you and your roommate share, or that your complex provides hot water to all units? If the complex provides hot water and if both showers get cold together at about the the same time, your plumbing is probably normal (your shower doesn't have some extra source of hot water). The difference ...


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Typically this would be a quarter turn valve, and turning the key on the left would open the valve. It may or may not rotate 360 degrees, the design does not indicate that. Adding some oil or lubricant to all surfaces around the 'wing' cannot hurt. If you are able to cut off the flow with the blue valve, try releasing the screw on the side of the Mueller. ...


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Bathtub and shower valves have (and are required to have) anti-scald features which limit the temperature. Depending on the valve that may be somewhat adjustable - check the owners manual for it (look up on the web if you don't have one.) I believe the reasoning is that a small child or invalid would not be able to get out of the tub, while it's assumed ...



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