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My house has copper plumbing. Right after moving into the house, I noticed the (electric) water heater had some discharge out the temperature and pressure (T&R) relief valve. The cause seemed to be a corroded thermostat, so I replaced both thermostats. A few months later, the problem returned and again the thermostats were somewhat ...


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In our situation, it turned out the high pitched noise was coming from the thin tube that carries the water to the top of the cistern and fills the tank. The tube had become slightly kinked. Straightening it eliminated the loud noise.


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Typical water heaters/tanks do rust out over time, especially if the sacrificial anode isn't replaced periodically. If yours is failing, get it replaced. You'll probably get better fuel efficiently from the new one too -- and you can almost certainly improve efficiency if you want to spend more and switch technologies. (I switched to a highly-insulated, ...


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For the Fluidmaster valves (fairly common in the US), the method to clean them is pretty quick and easy. Sample image from homedepot.com, no affiliation Shutoff the water to the toilet. Drain the toilet as much as possible with a full flush. Lift the float to the top While the float is raised, press down on the top and give it a 1/8th turn counter ...


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The sealed units have a heat link underneath the gas burner. When the vents get clogged by dust and dirt, the combustion chamber overheats and the heat link melts. Beneath the heat link is a spring clip which holds down a metal rod. What you will see when you take out the burner is a loose spring clip because it popped out when the link melted. This heat ...


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Epoxy a bunch of bricks and/or pressure treated 2x4s to the driveway. The climate is super-dry, and because of the pitch of your driveway and the amount of water on it, you only really need to contain about a 1/2' high wall of water, and it doesn't matter if it leaks a bit as long as most of the water is directed down the drain. For the truly cheap, laying ...


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You could offer to install a trenchdrain into your neighbours sand. depending on your runoff, that should solve the problem. unless you want to go with the above solution and build a mound, which may or may not be a better solution depending on the way the water runs, i.e. you dont really want the water to pool on your side.


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Your plan is decent, but I'd amend it slightly: Turn off the water Take off the scalemaster and throw it away Replace with a couple couplings and a regular piece of pipe Turn the water on. Be happy you saved your money by not buying a pointless device


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The toilet fill valves are often sensitive valves with small water passages that can easily get clogged up with debris in the water line. It is a sure bet that this is what has happened in your case. Some styles of fill valves are designed so that they can be opened up to allow removal of grit, sand or other debris. On the other hand if your toilet fill ...


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By design it is always filled to capacity, it is a pressure tank. Do not mess with the relief valve, it is there to prevent the tank from exploding due to malfunction causing overheating (if you are curious about that just do an internet search of boiler explosions). Do not turn off the water supply and drain the tank without also turning off the heat source ...


2

Water heaters do not live forever. Start shopping. While it is possible that you have a leaky fitting near the water heater, (which could be fixed) the most common cause for a leaky water heater is that the water heater itself has started to fail, and the only option there is replacement, as the corroded tank is not a replaceable part. Depending where you ...


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Flue cap is not waterproof, especially in wind. I am talking from experience. We have two chimneys, one with regular flue cap: and the other with a directionalflue cap similar to this: From my experience, the directional version works much better, but requires some maintenance, like occasional lubricating (like once a year is more than enough).


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It sounds like your chimney cap top might have flew off for that much water to come in. Mine just a few months ago and I had to secure it with extra screws. I would check that first. If it is only coming inside the chimney it really has to be top of the cap or that you need caulking around the base of your cap.


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The manual will say something like Flushing the heat exchanger with a descaling solution if mineral build up is evident. Scale build up will shorten the life of the water heater, descale heat exchanger thoroughly and repeat annually depending on mineral content of ground water. (From Bosch 2400E NG user manual) or maybe something like Periodic ...


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..Your driveway would be the cracked concrete slab to the left, I assume? If the picture is not misleading, there appears to be some slope towards the street. If so, rent a concrete saw or buy a concrete blade for a saw you own (but unless you own a water-cooled saw, a rental saw that is water-cooled will generally do a better job, faster) and cut a bunch ...


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Sometimes this is a resonant refill valve -- pushing the toilet, or a minor leak through the flush valve, shifts the water level just enough to open the valve a hair, and then it bounces between open and closed a few times until the water level comes up enough to close it more reliably. Fiddling with the water level may help, but replacing the refill ...


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If there really is a leak, it's easy to figure out. Make sure nothing in the house is actively using water (sink taps closed, no toilets running, etc.) and look at the water meter. If it's not absolutely, completely still, then you have a leak.


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I would say to wait and see if the water continues to come in after a few days. It is quite possible that the sprinkler water is seeping through above the slab. Are there bathrooms or other water usage utilities above where the leak is? Pipes usually rise vertically from the ground to the bathroom. You could also try to shut off the main water valve for as ...


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Throw some bales of barley straw into the water. Barley straw is often used to control algae in fish/garden ponds. I've had pretty good luck using it in my pond. I hear that when the barley decomposes it releases/creates hydrogen peroxide and kills the algae. Another thing you might try is adding snails and/or tadpoles to the water. They'll eat the algae ...


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The guy who always shuts off his water when he goes on vacation never says if he shuts off the gas to the heater or leaves it running. I would assume he shuts it off. That being said it is a major pain in the behind re-lighting the pilot. I hate getting down on my knees on the concrete basement floor to see if the pilot light is lit.


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First, what's wrong with algae? Other than the visual, it won't hurt you. Some cultures actually harvest and eat it. I have ditch next to my house with some algae. It's home to a toad family. I have a couple solutions for you. The best is to fix the ditch pitch so water doesn't collect. If you have a plethora of green stuff, try switching to a lower ...


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Well either the diverter isn't closing off the hot and cold to the mixing valve or there is an issue with the mixing valve itself. You wouldn't be able to physically see anything wrong with either until you start taking them apart. If you noticed your handle moving "faster" that can signal that the handle was not tightened properly or has stripped ...


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You cannot insytall a softener without a soft water loop. the soft water cant go to cold side of KS, refrigerator or hose bibbs.


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You will get improved performance, even if the piping in the house has not been "upgraded". There are two different types of "pressure" that are relevant to this situation. The first is the static pressure. This is the pressure when no water is being used. This is generally between 50 and 80 PSI, and it is never effected by pipe size. The other is dynamic ...


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There is a difference between pressure and flow rate. Pressure is the power with which the water presses against valves; this won't change with the diameter of the pipes. Flow rate is how much water comes out at a time, this will get better depending on the smallest diameter along the run and which other taps are open (in other words the smallest choke ...


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1/2" is a very small "main" - the only truly functional approach would be to upgrade it to a larger main. If your multiple-water use scenarios are of short duration, you could get some benefit from placing a pressure tank (as used in well pump systems) in the house to provide a few gallons of buffering, but after a few gallons (variable with size of tank ...


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You can download the manual from http://www.bradfordwhite.com/documentation. It explains how to turn off and restart. If in doubt, I'd contact the maker and ask for advice.


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I don't think that you need to turn off the gas to the hot water heater. I believe that it is likely acceptable to leave the appliance on the 'pilot' setting. I would obtain the manual for this device (try searching online, you will likely find it that way) or call the support number for the manufacturer. However, what is acceptable practice is not ...



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