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5

That is a standard type of valve used in the UK for connecting a water supply to appliances like dishwashers. It is sometimes called an "appliance valve". Usually the appliance is supplied with a cold-fill water hose that looks like this Though they vary and sometimes the other end of the hose is permanently attached inside the appliance. The blue ...


3

The blue plastic piece itself can't be replaced. The whole inlet valve needs to be replaced. Pretty sure it's this part which costs about $50. Not very familiar with taking apart dishwashers down that far but the appliances I have taken apart have been surprisingly easy. I've always found videos online that helped. This video looks like your dishwasher. ...


3

When you shut off your main (or any valve really but the main is the big one) and turn it back on you can cause debris or sediment that was trapped somewhere in your plumbing to dislodge. It seems to me that some debris might have gotten trapped in that faucet's aerator. Remove it and see if the pressure seems fine. If the pressure seems fine with the ...


2

You likely need a backflow valve to meet code regulations these days. That said, I don't see any reason to have two of them. Whether it's at the hose bib, or at the well, it's doing the same thing for you. I suppose one argument for putting it closer to the well is that you block more of the water from back flowing, but if the pipe to the hose is rated for ...


2

I would only call a plumber if the purpose was to have the plumber reroute the lines to an interior wall where the pipes will not freeze. I can't see paying someone $100 an hour plus for holding a hair dryer or mini-blow torch next to a pipe to get it to thaw. Your plumber plumbs not perform magic. If your pipes are freezing to this extent though I ...


2

Actually, this requires a system analysis to determine if it's a problem of the water heater, or a problem of your system needing a expansion tank. For instance, if your water supply is provided with a check valve or a pressure reducing valve/regulator on its input, a water heater full of cold water will cause expansion, and without an expansion tank or an ...


2

During normal operation, no water should be discharged from the T&P (temp and pressure relief) valve. If the water is leaking from the valve at the bottom of the unit, then it likely isn't shut fully. If you're talking about the T&P valve, either the valve is faulty, or a fault condition is occurring that is causing the water heater to overheat. ...


2

Aquarium grade Room Temperature Vulcanizing (rtv) silicone will not harm fish life - it's what holds nearly every glass aquarium made in the last 40 years or so together. If the aqaurium in your picture is glass, it's probably glued with silicone. Read the label on the tube. Somewhere in the fine print there will, or will not be a mention of suitable for ...


2

You have the idea of it, I think, so long as you're not going for something cockamaimie like tying the air charge sides together. I don't actually think you are saying that; in any case, don't do that. You just set those both 2 psi below the cut-in (ie, 18 PSI for a 20/40, 28 PSI for a 30/50 38 PSI for a 40/60 pressure switch setting, with the water side ...


1

Bathtub and shower valves have (and are required to have) anti-scald features which limit the temperature. Depending on the valve that may be somewhat adjustable - check the owners manual for it (look up on the web if you don't have one.) I believe the reasoning is that a small child or invalid would not be able to get out of the tub, while it's assumed ...


1

Search for bulkhead fitting (and PVC if you must), just about every hardware store has them. There's plenty of examples of hacks using regular fittings as well.


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Typically this would be a quarter turn valve, and turning the key on the left would open the valve. It may or may not rotate 360 degrees, the design does not indicate that. Adding some oil or lubricant to all surfaces around the 'wing' cannot hurt. If you are able to cut off the flow with the blue valve, try releasing the screw on the side of the Mueller. ...


1

Best is to keep it damp "forever." Design strength for most concrete is based on 28 days at 21C/70F. The early part of the cure is the most critical. Time is doubled at 50F/10C and reduced at higher temperatures - so long as it's kept damp. Covering with damp cloths/burlap/sacking and then covering that with plastic can help to keep it damp longer (from a ...


1

To raise the float level without adding any additional points of failure, just move the whole pump up - shorten the pipe, put concrete blocks under the pump to raise it in the pit. Your power bill will thank you. You could try putting a strong dye [food coloring or fabric dye can work, but "septic dye" is probably the most effective] in the water, though it ...


1

According to International Residential Code (IRC), you'll need to provide a 30" x 30" level working space for servicing and inspection of both appliances. You'll also have to follow the manufacturers installation instructions, for clearances from combustible materials and any other restrictions. You'll also have to consider supplying the equipment with ...


1

There are three basic non-snake oil devices that one might use: sediment filter, RO filter, and water softener. A sediment filter doesn't remove dissolved solids. An RO filter is not suitable for high volume uses like bathing, dish-washing and clothes washing. A good water softener is the right product for your needs. But you might add an RO filter in ...



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