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3

Get a different water heater with larger fittings.


2

You have the idea of it, I think, so long as you're not going for something cockamaimie like tying the air charge sides together. I don't actually think you are saying that; in any case, don't do that. You just set those both 2 psi below the cut-in (ie, 18 PSI for a 20/40, 28 PSI for a 30/50 38 PSI for a 40/60 pressure switch setting, with the water side ...


2

There is nothing about this condition that by itself suggests a leak. Common causes are your cold water pipes run near heating ducts or the furnace, or water from your hot water heater expanding back into the cold supply. Likewise, a warm spot on your floor could be from ducting, a light below, the sun hitting it through a window, etc. If there is a ...


2

I think you have two completely separate issues that you became aware of at the same time, and which are mostly unrelated. Improperly set system and air pressures in bladder tanks. A note - the higher the system pressure, the less water storage (drawdown) in a bladder tank. So you might get better performance from a 40/60 or 30/50 setting. You are also ...


1

If you have flexible piping running to the bottom of the faucet: turn off both the hot & cold the water supplies disconnect the piping from the faucet aim the hot water pipe into a bucket and turn the hot water back on (quickly turn it off, of course) repeat for the cold water side If you're getting water in the bucket, the faucet's the problem. If ...


1

I think my first step in sorting this out would be to positively identify the feed from the supply main, shut it off at the main, cut this whole business out at least temporarily, and connect the house to the main without all this "stuff." If, as appears to be the case, the pressure from the main is being reduced before it's increased, something is just ...


1

We have the answer - Talking with the well/plumbing company that we had replace a jet pump in a prior home years ago, as he heard the issue he offered "just what filter cartridge did you replace?" It was a sediment filter, and he asked whether I might have replaced it with a carbon filter instead, and that if I had, the pressure issue might be caused by much ...


1

Another option would be to not use the icemaker in the refrigerator, and replace it with a countertop icemaker: These are available in different capacities (and prices), and many are designed with a refillable water reservoir so it doesn't need to be connected to a water line. As an added bonus, if your refrigerator icemaker is removable, you can free up ...


1

Wanted to add to this... I had the same problem this morning, i.e. 1 - no hot water 2 - no error codes on unit We had a snow storm the evening before, and my son piled snow in front of the vent/exhaust. The unit has a safety feature and won't make hot water if it can't exhaust. Cleared the snow, hot water returned!


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Typically this would be a quarter turn valve, and turning the key on the left would open the valve. It may or may not rotate 360 degrees, the design does not indicate that. Adding some oil or lubricant to all surfaces around the 'wing' cannot hurt. If you are able to cut off the flow with the blue valve, try releasing the screw on the side of the Mueller. ...


1

Bathtub and shower valves have (and are required to have) anti-scald features which limit the temperature. Depending on the valve that may be somewhat adjustable - check the owners manual for it (look up on the web if you don't have one.) I believe the reasoning is that a small child or invalid would not be able to get out of the tub, while it's assumed ...



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