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2

To achieve the maximum flow keep your pump at ground level. With a 1/2" slightly pressurized intake it may help to put 3/4" out put to the water tank but much larger would probably be a waste of $. Make sure to have water in the pump at all times the shaft seals are usually ceramic with no water they overheat and crack. This would be another reason to keep ...


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I installed 1" pipe from main line to the back flow preventer. Then 1" to the main zone-valves. From there, I used 1" to all over the yard. When branching to the sprinkle, I used 1/2" or sometimes 3/4" depending on the location sprinkler, type of plants around, more water or less, down hill or up hill. There are many variables to take into consideration but ...


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Improper flushing often results from minerals clogging up the holes under the rim of the toilet. The usual cure is to clear out the buildup with a muriatic acid treatment.


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Presumably you are in a non-freezing climate. In freezing climates, it's very common to have a pressure regulator / pressure reducing valve inside the house, since it would freeze (or be in an inconveniently deep hole) outside the house.


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I would suggest an expansion tank on the cold supply at the water heater. Your meter probably has a backflow preventer in it (check valve) which will not help when pressure builds up in the house.


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Sounds like you expansion tank is failed or not pressurized properly. I suggest draining the expansion tank and checking the pressure. If you get any water out of the air valve, your tank has failed.


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Pressure tanks are intended to overcome one- and two-story elevation rises. You should have no problems.


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It depends on the particular sprinklers, but somewhere in the 25 to 40 psi range should work for all but golf fairway sprinklers. Usually the pressure regulator is adjustable, so you can experiment to see what works best.


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Sometimes when you open older valves, they get stuck open. If you can't get the valve to reset, you'll have to replace it.


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Do you have a screen, in the tap (faucet) at the end where water comes out into the sink? (or the line that collects hard lime, water deposits?) This can be a problem anytime the water is hard, THUS quite mineralized. Those bits- often the size of sand grains -- can collect and wreak havoc. Clogging of water lines if galvanized via mineral build up before ...


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to your points: 1) no - it doesn't mean they are crossed. it is almost impossible to make a cross connection unintentionally. this is so unlikely its almost a guaranteed impossibility. 2) wont harm anything 3) low pressure is probably unrelated, but could be a result of contamination introduced into the pipes when the work was done (solder debris ...


4

You can use an automatic air vent for the water supply. It has a air chamber and a float that will automatically bleed the accumulated air. They are also relatively inexpensive. The automatic air vent is commonly used for for hydronic water heating systems but make sure its approved for potable water in your case. This Honeywell EA122A1028 should work. ...



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