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A thermocouple makes 30 mv power by a temperature differential across the tip of the thermocouple which contains 2 dissimilar metals. If the entire tip is hot,there is no temperature differential thus no power made or not enough power will be made.A thousand millivolts = 1 volt,so a thermocouple's 30 mv is about 1/33 of 1 volt,a AA battery has 1.5 volts ...


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A thermocouple makes 30 mv power by a temperature differential across the tip of the thermocouple which contains 2 dissimilar metals. If the entire tip is hot,there is no temperature differential thus no power made or not enough power will be made.A thousand millivolts = 1 volt,so a thermocouple's 30 mv is about 1/33 of 1 volt,a AA battery has 1.5 volts ...


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Water heaters have a safety device called a T & P valve, T is Temperature, P is for pressure. it sits atop or near the top of the unit and is designed to "pop off" or open in cases where the temperature or pressure is high.These can go bad by themselves or after being bled by a well meaning or curious person. See if the temperature setting is maxed out, ...


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I ended up getting a Rheem XG40T12DM40UO instead. According to my Kill-A-Watt it uses the following amounts of power, depending on the state of the water heater: Standby, Idle: <= 1 Watt Damper active open/close: ~4 Watts (lasts about 10 seconds or so) Active burn: ~4 Watts


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Your diagnostics so far point to the indirect hot water heater coil leaking potable water into the furnace loop as the most likely issue. You could perhaps verify if you can shut your hot water down for a few days (not convenient, I know.) Depending on the overall condition of the indirect water heater tank, the coil can often be replaced as a part, if the ...


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If it's power vented, that's a neat trick, because the installation manual never mentions supplying it with any sort of electrical feed... From a cursory look through the documentation, it appears to be standard vented. Also note the combustion air intakes on the sides and the design of the vent hood.


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Standard Vent - no dedicated air intake, a flue exiting the house, almost always through the roof. Not much different from 1920's technology. Direct Vent - Generally a concentric pipe with air intake in the annulus between pipes, and exhaust in the center. Frequently a horizontal through-wall vent. Will be mentioned in product install literature.


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The usual remarks about the safety of scalding water anywhere in your system go here. Physics says the life of your tank will decrease, but not enough for you to notice. Everything else being equal, hot water has a slightly higher pressure, but expansion tanks are there to deal with that very problem. The one place you might notice a difference is in ...


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Your best bet would be an IR or instant read thermometer. You should test it from the closest faucet to the hot water tank, and make sure to let it run for several minutes first. If you do use a leave-in meat thermometer, it might take several minutes to get an accurate reading. Ice water should be close to 0C/32F (and if you add salt, it would get even ...



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