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By shutting off the water main, there is no way for expanded hot water to be relieved by backing into the main. This causes over-pressure and either the pressure relief valve is letting some water out (hopefully into the pan) or the high pressure water is opening a flaw in the tank or a through-hole, such as a heating element, spigot, or water connection. ...


It turns out it's nothing to do with the water heater. The sump pump's backup battery, which is pretty close to the water heater, exploded inside its container. That's what caused the smell.


I've never seen a burner assembly area that wasn't rusty, H2O is a byproduct of combustion. Things to consider: is the exhaust vent in good condition, is the TPR valve not leaking and in working order? Provided it's not in a location where a catastrophic leak would cause damage, ride it out. That being said, 12 years is getting towards the end of its life. ...


I would definitely have the two circuit separated. In fact, they should have been from the start. If the water heater is a "standard" 4500 watt tank-type then a 20A breaker is not adequate anyway. You'd need #10 wire with a 30A two-pole breaker.


A water expansion tank gives water a place to expand in a closed system (frequently found with boilers, or home water supplies with a check valve). Otherwise, heated water cannot expand and instead increases pressure until some component of the system leaks or explodes. If the tank is on the hot water heating system, then it's there to relieve expansion ...


How often does your heating system spring a leak? It's not particularly often in my (long) experience with closed-crcuit hot water heating systems - less than once per 20 years, I'd say, and usually with some outside cause. In general, it is a waste of money to remove/replace a system that's working. To address one of your "benefits" - where do you suppose ...


I did this very thing (replaced copper with PEX for baseboard heating). But I did this because my copper had frozen and split in about 200 places. So, if your copper is shot, I'd replace with PEX. But if the copper is fine, save the hassle! But if you do decide to do it, some tips: Sharkbite connectors are great and make it super easy to connect copper ...

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