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Yes, it's good possibility that if you don't purposefully depressurize the lines first, you will get spray. But this is easy to do. Turn off the cold water supply to the house. Then open the hot and cold taps in a sink somewhere. When the water stops flowing, you're good. If you want to be really safe, you could drain a little bit of water out of the tank ...


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I found the source of the problem, and thought I'd post the answer in case anyone is having the same issue. I needed to turn up the temperature on the hot water tank. For some reason, when I have the temperature set to 108, the kitchen faucet doesn't trigger the tank to kick on. When I set the temperature to 120, the problem was resolved.


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Concentric PVC is a thing. I like concentric pipes because they only require a single penetration rather than two. Honestly, any of your options should be fine for a high-efficiency gas appliance and a three foot pipe run. The exhaust temperature of condensing, high-efficiency gas appliances is pretty low, which is why PVC is an option. PVC might be expected ...


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For exterior applications, fiberglass faced gypsum board is commonly used. Fiberglass, unlike paper, is resistant to mold growth and ordinarily does not deteriorate when exposed to moisture. For protected locations such as an exterior shed, this is almost certainly adequate as is indicated by the service life of the current installation. Fiberglass faced ...


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Cement board, tile backer board - or use the exterior siding flavor of "otherwise pretty much the same product"


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Model the water heater as a continuously stirred tank reactor (CSTR), so it is always at a uniform temperature. Assume the recovery time is not dependent on temperature and completely accounts for insulation losses and the like. Neglect losses in pipes and assume the operator controls the shower temperature to 105°F perfectly. Taking the stopping criterion ...


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Sounds like you need to replace the mixing valve. This is a simple part to replace. This usually involves removing the handle and possibly the trim, then removing a retaining clip, and the pulling out the cartridge. Buy a new one and reverse the process. Here's a good set of instructions for Moen valves: ...


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No harm in turning it off. It was off before it was ever shipped to you! If there is a risk of the ambient temperature dropping below freezing, you might consider draining the tank and the rest of your pipes. If you've never drained the tank, you might as well use this as an excuse to do so. Periodically flushing the tank is part of standard maintenance ...


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It's not a bad idea to turn off the gas while you work on your water system as the water level inside the tank may become unacceptably low, or pressures to high if you shut all the valves off; triggering the T&P relief valve. You must turn off the gas or power if you have to drain the entire system and the tank.


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You will need a so let for the older models, or if your anode is recessed under a cap. We're draining and replacing the anode now, so we will soon know if that's the issue.


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Okay, I needed to replace some damaged caulking in this shower stall, and this smell disappeared right after. I'm thinking some mold (or mildew, or any other fun guys that like to grow in shower stalls) gave off this smell when heated. As to why this needed re-caulking: I turn the shower to "hot" and turn it away from the shower stall door, towards the ...


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Background on UK practice In most detached houses in the UK, the hot water tank is primarily heated by hot-water from a gas or oil-fired boiler that also supplies heat to radiators for room heating. The boiler installation has it's own timer to control room-heating and hot-water. The electric immersion heater in the hot-water tank is only a backup system ...



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