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9

Check out the 1 or 2 gallon point of use heaters that install under the sink. They run on 120VAC and are fairly easy to install with minimal plumbing changes. There are also above sink mounted hot taps that mount into the sprayer hole in the sink. These are usually used for hot water for coffee/tea etc. Both of these type products are available at your local ...


8

The drip pan's drain tube may not be large enough to handle the flow if you drain the entire water heater through it, leading to an overflow of the drip pan. I would be safe and use a hose to connect the outlet to the drain.


6

How often does your heating system spring a leak? It's not particularly often in my (long) experience with closed-crcuit hot water heating systems - less than once per 20 years, I'd say, and usually with some outside cause. In general, it is a waste of money to remove/replace a system that's working. To address one of your "benefits" - where do you suppose ...


5

Water heaters have a dip tube on the cold water side that puts the cold water into the bottom of the tank. If water pressure is lost on the cold water side, the tank can siphon down through the cold water inlet till it reaches the bottom of the dip tube. Then since there's no water in the tank to absorb heat, the dip tube can melt and the tank can be ...


4

The most likely reason is a degraded/broken dip tube in the hot water heater. If this were the case, there would likely be little bits of plastic in your water, which perhaps could be seen if you removed a faucet aerator. To replace the dip tube, the cold water inlet must be removed, and the new tube installed. One related cause is if the inlet and outlet ...


4

I'd suggest you use a watering can or pitcher to test where the drain tube goes before you crack the hot water heater drain. Pour a half-gallon to a couple of gallons down the tube and see if it shows up somewhere below. It probably should be more or less directly below in the basement, but it's always a good thing to check that it works before asking it to ...


4

It sounds like you are describing two different problems. FIRST PROBLEM: Turning off a hot water heater. First, there are two ways to hook up two water heaters: series and parallel. SERIES In series, the water comes in to the first water heater, then passes through the second hot water heater, and finally goes to your fixtures. If you turn off the ...


4

You can buy an electric tea kettle. It looks like a coffee thermos but it has a cord. No modifications to the plumbing needed!


3

Couple options come to mind: Change the fan. Change the fan speed. Change the fan connection to the vent. Dampen the vent. Change the size or length of the vent. If you can't or don't want to change the fan, then try dampening the vent by clamping it somewhere to the building structure and possibly adding some padding or pipe insulation where it makes ...


3

There are one user failure and 2 equipment fails that usually contribute to non lighting water heaters" User Not pressing down the pilot button long enough. After lighting the pilot flame initially, you must hold down the pilot button long enough (30 seconds) to allow the thermocouple (a detector of heat, which sents its signal to the main gas valve) to ...


3

Only "power-vent" type gas water heaters can be vented with plastic pipe. These are gas water heaters with a fan on top which blows the flue gas (and cools it by mixing surrounding cool air with it, hence plastic vent is OK) out of the house. Most can be vented with 3" PVC (white), ABS (black), or CPVC (kinda tan colored). These vents can be run horizontally ...


3

It turns out it's nothing to do with the water heater. The sump pump's backup battery, which is pretty close to the water heater, exploded inside its container. That's what caused the smell.


2

I just did a search for John Woods thermostat wiring and found the John Wood website. Then I used it, and your pictures to create the modified picture below. It looks to me like you have it wired right. Also, it looks like the original wiring was done so that both the upper and lower heating elements would be on at the same time. With it wired the way you ...


2

This answer is my opinion as a technician to the simple question: If my water heater is left on, and the water is shut off, will this damage the gas fired water heater if the hot water will not be used very much, or not at all? Considering you wont be using the water, and it will only be off for a short time there is no risk at all. You can also shut off ...


2

Before the use of pressure relief valves, homeowners were always urged to shut off the gas or electricity to a water heater which has the water cut off. The reasoning was simple: When the water heater came on to heat up its reservoir, it would cause the water to expand, and therefore pressurize, to the point where the tank or a pipe would rupture. As long ...


2

To be clear for future searchers: the nut is critical, it provides half of the electrical connection. A thermocouple requires two wires to function: electricity is generated at the junction of two different metals and two wires are needed for current to flow. While some thermocouples have two wires, the original poster is talking about a model with one ...


2

Time to call a professional; either a plumber or the local fire department. They can use more sophisticated leak detectors to pinpoint the leak, and know how to do so safely. Leaking gas is not something to trifle with. Liquid leak detectors (the type that bubble up when gasses are leaking) are great for simple threaded connections, but you've got a whole ...


2

You would gain... Sewer gas explosion. Never should sewer vents be exposed to any ignition source... In mines it's known as firedamp and it kills indiscriminately. All it takes is the proper ratio of flammable gas to oxygen and you have a fuel-air explosive. Sewer gas is vented to the atmosphere for several reasons: it displaces oxygen sulphide gasses ...


2

Installing a pan under a water heater is always a good idea. As a contractor, I have responded to many leaking tanks over the years and a drained pan would have made the situation a lot cheaper and easier for the customer. the leak is one thing, but the collateral damage is another. If you have clearance above the water heater, you could raise the level ...


2

You have used the wrong type of teflon tape - for gas the thicker yellow teflon tape should be used. Another option which many prefer is to use a pipe sealant like RectorSeal. If after replacing the white teflon the smell persists I would check the other end of the gas line. It's possible that when removing the old gas line an existing fitting was ...


2

If you eventually get hot water, it is more likely due to the flow rate of the sink vs. the flow rate of the shower. This determines how fast the cooled water sitting in the pipes is pushed out before the hot water from the heater reaches the faucet. In half inch pipe at a typical faucet flow rate of 1.5gpm, it will take 1 minute to clear roughly 18' of ...


2

Such a variation is not normal unless you are using an abnormally high amount of water so that the water heater does not have enough time to recover. Otherwise, since the heater worked properly when first installed, I would recommend calling the installer.


2

Unless your hot water heater is positively vented (i.e. an exhaust blower), you need a draft hood in order to prevent back pressure in the vent line. If you connect directly to the hot water heater without a draft hood, you are risking having the pilot light blown out by pressure in the vent (think wind) or letting exhaust gases escape into your house. It's ...


2

Do a quick search online for the brand and model of the water heater. Most manuals for install are available online, but of course this will depend on the age of the unit. The manual (in most cases) describes the limitations of exhaust pipe distances and in particular the inclusion of elbows in the flue. It is important to check as elbows reduce the ease of ...


2

Many homes suffer from low pressure/flow issues for various reasons. This regular drop in pressure/flow seems to indicate an external problem, such as a large water user (commercial or industrial) using water from your water main line for some automated process. Also, check with your water distribution entity to see if they have changed the way they ...


2

I did this very thing (replaced copper with PEX for baseboard heating). But I did this because my copper had frozen and split in about 200 places. So, if your copper is shot, I'd replace with PEX. But if the copper is fine, save the hassle! But if you do decide to do it, some tips: Sharkbite connectors are great and make it super easy to connect copper ...


2

I would definitely have the two circuit separated. In fact, they should have been from the start. If the water heater is a "standard" 4500 watt tank-type then a 20A breaker is not adequate anyway. You'd need #10 wire with a 30A two-pole breaker.


1

There is no relationship between tank sediment and pipe calcification. Unless he was able to show you how your pipes are actually constricted, such as where they connect to the water heater, there is no way anyone can know there is such a problem. Unless you were shown obvious evidence of build up, this sounds like a complete scam to me from what little ...


1

Do you have a multi-meter? If so, test the voltage output from the thermocouple when heated by the pilot. Set your multi-meter to DC and the lowest voltage it can measure - the output should be at least few hundred millivolts. You can consult your furnace documentation for the minimum voltage needed. You can perform this with it held in the correct place ...


1

Each appliance has a specification, available from the manufacturer, on various clearances. This number is sometimes zero, usually not, but never more than a few inches. That said 3 inches between the furnace and water heater does not sound risky. Water heaters stay cool compared to furnaces: the clearance to the water softener may be the bigger deal. ...



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