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28

I'm from Serbia, just like the OP, and we do have such a myth there. After my initial rant, aimed at explaining why some of the safety assumptions that many answers here may have are wrong, I'll show installation of a typical water heater and explain a couple of issues that I see with the installation. (Feel free to skip this part) First, some background, ...


22

If the water heater is not properly grounded, it could be dangerous but then it would be dangerous all the time, not just when you take a shower. Sounds to me like a myth that got started because someone once was injured by a faulty water heater and then the myth took on a life of its own. If the water heater is wired properly you have nothing to fear. ...


10

In the UK we have electric showers which heat water on demand - ie they're supplied with 230V using about 9kW, which is enough for a moderate flow of cold water to be heated to about 50C as it flows through the shower. Not only are they directly connected to the shower hose, they're usually inside the shower cubicle - so the unit gets wet and the electrical ...


7

I have never heard of such a thing, and in the USA the water heater is usually tucked away in some hard-to-access place like a basement or utility closet. Turning it on and off all the time would be totally impractical. I know in some other countries it is typical to have the water heater installed in the kitchen or bathroom.


5

In any administration where internationally recognised regulatory rules are used and means are provided to ENSURE that all except a few rogue installations are installed to the standards then the risk of electric shock from such installations is extremely small. I have never heard of such an installation causing shock or death in New Zealand (where I live). ...


2

To add anything to the water heater you will need to turn the water off and drain the pressure in the lines. After this there are 2 choices; Pull the anode probably the best idea because it may have dissolved. The 2nd choice would be to pull the supply line and add there. I have never had this problem that flushing and replacing the anode did not fix. After ...


2

Ex-communist or not, real reason is that many older building have substandard wiring, especially grounding which in combination with metallic plumbing can cause electric shocks even without insulation fault.


2

I've recently had a problem with my gas water heater turning off frequently. When I called the manufacturer, they asked if I had a dryer in the same room. My answer was, "yes, the dryer sits next to the water heater in an open room of the basement." The rep said that was most likely the problem. When hot water heaters are in the same room with dryers, over ...


2

One could always come up with hypothetical scenarios, but this seems pretty unlikely for several reasons. One: For electric current to be in "contact" with the water, there'd have to be physical damage to wires or heating elements, with just the right bad luck that they came in contact with the tank. And the tank itself would have to conduct electricity. ...


2

The 2014 NEC is adopted in Ohio. You need a dedicated circuit for these appliances: Refrigerator, Freezer, Electric range, Microwave, Water heater, Washer, Dryer, Dishwasher/garbage disposal, Furnace, Heat pump, Air conditioner (central and window), Sump pump, Hot tub/Sauna/Jacuzzi A furnace requires a dedicated circuit.[422.12] Dwelling units require ...


1

This is completely normal and is the reason it is suggested you drain and flush your tank periodically. Even better than just draining a gallon of water is to turn off the tank (either kill the electricity or turn off the gas valve), shutoff the water to the tank, drain the entire tank, and then with the drain open, run the water to flush any remaining ...


1

Even if you could it is not at all a good idea. Bottom line is if the water heater is on a 30A circuit then you CANNOT do this unless the tanning bed draws approx. 6 amps or less, which is highly unlikely. The max load on a 30A circuit is 30A, and the limitation is 125% of a continuous load (a storage water heater is to be considered a continuous load, so ...


1

In then end it was indeed the thermocouple. At some point the water heater shut off and things got cold enough that condensation formed when it was restarted. Since replacing the thermocouple, the problem has not reoccurred.


1

It depends on what type of failure are you talking about. The rate at which water flows from a leak, is going to depend on the size of the leak. It could range anywhere from less than 1 ml per day, to the full supply flow rate. If it's a catastrophic failure, you could be talking about the full contents spilling out in a matter of seconds/minutes, followed ...



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