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30

There are two main and opposing risks: Too high, and users get scalded Too low, and you risk pathogens, particularly Legionella bacteria, which causes legionellosis (Legionnaires' disease) Minimum temperature Legionella risk According to the paper "Legionella and the prevention of legionellosis," found at the World Health Organization website, ...


26

The best way to speed up hot water to the tap is through the use of a booster heater, also known as a "point of use" hot water heater. This is a small (~4 gallon) hot water heater installed very near the sink. If you need a lot of hot water and you want it to start fast you can install the hot water line as the supply for the point of use heater. That way ...


21

Install a hot water recirculating pump. Older pumps required that the house be plumbed with a return loop to support circulation, but newer designs can be retrofitted if a house wasn't plumbed that way. More info: http://www.askthebuilder.com/413_Hot_Water_Recirculating_Pumps.shtml $ saving tip: put the pump on a timer and have it come on only when you ...


20

It's part of the recommended maintenance for the heater, so there's definitely value in it. No matter how clean your water supply, there's always going to be some amount of sediment getting through, sand and grit or dissolved minerals. As the water sits in the heater's tank, that can settle out and build up on the bottom of the tank. How much does it cost ...


19

Insulate the hot water pipes from the hot water heater to the faucet. Hopefully you have access to them in your crawl space.


19

I'd say it's a mark left by the plumber's torch while soldering the copper pipes rather than an electrical problem.


18

When most people think of a water heating system, they think of a tank (40-75 gal. on average) with a heating source. However, a robust water heating system probably shouldn't be so simple. How you want to configure things depends on what your exact situation is, and what features you want maximized. Some examples: 2 tank, parallel This kind of setup ...


17

I have a tankless heater, and I love it for the efficiency (energy and space wise) and of course the endless hot water. But there are some drawbacks: There is a minimum flow rate required for it to "fire up". That flow rate is high enough that you won't get hot water out of a faucet unless it's turned all the way over to "hot" and on full blast. In ...


12

If you have an electric hot water heater, it may mean that one of your two elements has burned out. Most electric hot water heaters have an uppper and a lower element; the upper runs until the top of the tank is hot, which provides quick recovery time, then when the top thermostat is satisfied, it transfers power to the lower thermostat, which heats until ...


12

If you've got a gas water heater, there is a common problem that can occur with certain models. Because of the way they're designed, many have a "dip tube" that sits underneath the cold water inlet. It runs most of the length down the heater and channels incoming cold water down to the bottom of the tank where it can be heated closest to the flame. If ...


12

Modern codes generally require 5/8" fire-rated drywall (Type X) between a garage and the living areas of a house. Double check with your local city/county/state as they may have more stringent requirements.


10

There really isn't a perfect solution to slow-flowing water, other than carefully planning your home so that the water heater is as close to the faucets as possible. As stated by Josh, one solution is water recirculation. But depending on usage scenarios, water recirculation can waste a lot of energy. "Sense" technology that enables recirculation when ...


9

A lot of water heaters (that I've seen anyway) are in unheated spaces -- basements, garages, attics (in some countries). The rate at which you lose heat from the water depends mainly on two things: the difference in temperature between the water and the outside environment. The greater the difference, the faster the heat loss. the R-value of the ...


9

You can go for a small water heater right near the faucet. I have done this with small 8 litre water heaters in the kitchen and guest toilets rather than linking them to the main water heater.


9

Tankless heaters are rated by the amount they raise the temperature of the water at a specific flow rate (and as the flow goes higher, the amount they raise the temperature is lower), for example: Rise in Temp: 50°F 75°F 100°F Flow rate: 3.8 gpm 2.4 gpm 1.9 gpm Basically, the lower your incoming water temperature, the larger a unit you ...


9

After doing a bit of research on what exactly hot water return lines are I found this page which goes into a lot of detail about how they work and their benefits and drawbacks. The big drawback I see is that you will need to make sure that all your hot water lines are well lagged to minimise the inevitable heat loss that will occur with the hot water ...


9

There are three reasons a T&P valve opens. Temperature, pressure, or a faulty valve. Temperature If the water in the heater reaches a temperature of 210 degrees F, the T&P valve will open and release water until the water temperature is reduced. As water is removed through the T&P valve, cold water enters through the inlet and mixes with the ...


9

The drip pan's drain tube may not be large enough to handle the flow if you drain the entire water heater through it, leading to an overflow of the drip pan. I would be safe and use a hose to connect the outlet to the drain.


9

Check out the 1 or 2 gallon point of use heaters that install under the sink. They run on 120VAC and are fairly easy to install with minimal plumbing changes. There are also above sink mounted hot taps that mount into the sprayer hole in the sink. These are usually used for hot water for coffee/tea etc. Both of these type products are available at your local ...


8

The concern that I know of is about the size of the pipe and all appliances that can be running at the other end. So if they ran out of a larger dimension pipe (or just had a lot of the smaller dimension) this would almost make sense. But I'd think any normal installer would try to minimize the parts cost and split it closer to the appliances. However, if ...


8

It could be that the Thermocouple has failed or is failing. This would cause the system to think there is no flame present, and shut off the gas supply for safety (so it doesn't fill the house with gas). If you don't feel comfortable working on the heater; or you don't have the knowledge and/or tools to do so, call a trained professional to come take a ...


8

The numbers you need are flow rates and desired temperatures. For example, Home Depot's guide gives the following flow rates: Bathroom Faucet: 0.5 – 1.5 gpm Low Flow Kitchen Faucet: 3.0 – 7.0 gpm Shower: 1.0 – 2.0 gpm Dishwasher: 1.0 – 2.5 gpm Clothes Washer: 1.5 – 3.0 gpm Tankless heaters are rated for how much heat they provide at a given flow. If ...


8

This manual for a State Select gas-fired water heater states "Due to the nature of the typical gas water heater, the water temperature in certain situations may vary up to 30°F higher or lower at the point of use such as, bathtubs, showers, sink, etc. This means that when the temperature adjustment dial is set at the mark approximating 120°F, the actual ...


7

The amount of oxygen consumed by a hot water heater is negligible. The risk of the gas heater sucking all the oxygen out of the room is zero. Now that does not mean that it's code to have it in a bedroom, but there is no safety issue from consumption of oxygen. The safety issue is on venting of the carbon monoxide (CO) from the hot water heater. In order ...


7

Several possibilities: There's a thermal shutoff that automatically stops the gas if the pilot light doesn't heat it up. This prevents you from leaking unburned gas into the home, which would be very bad. Check that the probe is in contact with the pilot flame. The fact that it stays on for 15 minutes makes me think this may not be the issue, but ...


7

9 times out of 10, like Tester mentions, this is going to be the aerator. Unscrew it, run some water without it, and clean it before screwing it back on. There's all kinds of stuff that gets knocks around in the pipes when water is shutoff and things are added or replaced in the plumbing system, and the best place for them to end up is the kitchen sink ...


7

The user manual for your unit can be found here. According to the document the following are possible when no codes are displayed: Clean inlet water supply filter. On new installations ensure hot and cold water lines are not reversed. Check for bleed over. Isolate unit from building by turning off cold water line to building. Isolate the ...


7

If you are on a municipal system and have pressure that high, you quite likely already have a pressure reducing valve (PRV) installed near your water meter. The International Plumbing Code requires PRVs on any water supply over 80psi. If this is the case, your PRV may just need adjustment. As they age, the spring regulating the device's operation can soften. ...


7

The typical way to pre-warm water is to install a standard tank water heater before the tankless, but leave it turned off. Using an automotive radiator is a terrible idea. You don't want to connect something not designed for potable water to your plumbing. That's just asking for trouble. The pex idea is interesting. The only reason that I can think that ...


7

If the tank itself is rusted out, it's time to replace it. Water expands when it's heated, which creates pressure in the system. Pressurizing a rusty water tank is a recipe for disaster. Replace the tank before it causes problems. Trying to eek out a few more months is foolhardy.



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