Hot answers tagged

35

There are two main and opposing risks: Too high, and users get scalded Too low, and you risk pathogens, particularly Legionella bacteria, which causes legionellosis (Legionnaires' disease) Minimum temperature Legionella risk According to the paper "Legionella and the prevention of legionellosis," found at the World Health Organization website, ...


29

I'm from Serbia, just like the OP, and we do have such a myth there. After my initial rant, aimed at explaining why some of the safety assumptions that many answers here may have are wrong, I'll show installation of a typical water heater and explain a couple of issues that I see with the installation. (Feel free to skip this part) First, some background, ...


27

The best way to speed up hot water to the tap is through the use of a booster heater, also known as a "point of use" hot water heater. This is a small (~4 gallon) hot water heater installed very near the sink. If you need a lot of hot water and you want it to start fast you can install the hot water line as the supply for the point of use heater. That way ...


22

Install a hot water recirculating pump. Older pumps required that the house be plumbed with a return loop to support circulation, but newer designs can be retrofitted if a house wasn't plumbed that way. More info: http://www.askthebuilder.com/413_Hot_Water_Recirculating_Pumps.shtml $ saving tip: put the pump on a timer and have it come on only when you ...


22

If the water heater is not properly grounded, it could be dangerous but then it would be dangerous all the time, not just when you take a shower. Sounds to me like a myth that got started because someone once was injured by a faulty water heater and then the myth took on a life of its own. If the water heater is wired properly you have nothing to fear. ...


20

It's part of the recommended maintenance for the heater, so there's definitely value in it. No matter how clean your water supply, there's always going to be some amount of sediment getting through, sand and grit or dissolved minerals. As the water sits in the heater's tank, that can settle out and build up on the bottom of the tank. How much does it cost ...


20

Insulate the hot water pipes from the hot water heater to the faucet. Hopefully you have access to them in your crawl space.


19

When most people think of a water heating system, they think of a tank (40-75 gal. on average) with a heating source. However, a robust water heating system probably shouldn't be so simple. How you want to configure things depends on what your exact situation is, and what features you want maximized. Some examples: 2 tank, parallel This kind of setup ...


19

I'd say it's a mark left by the plumber's torch while soldering the copper pipes rather than an electrical problem.


17

I have a tankless heater, and I love it for the efficiency (energy and space wise) and of course the endless hot water. But there are some drawbacks: There is a minimum flow rate required for it to "fire up". That flow rate is high enough that you won't get hot water out of a faucet unless it's turned all the way over to "hot" and on full blast. In ...


15

If you've got a gas water heater, there is a common problem that can occur with certain models. Because of the way they're designed, many have a "dip tube" that sits underneath the cold water inlet. It runs most of the length down the heater and channels incoming cold water down to the bottom of the tank where it can be heated closest to the flame. If ...


15

Regardless of code, I like to get them off the floor just in case the basement floods. My preferred (and easily available anywhere) solution is a few solid concrete blocks; one under each foot. You can stack them if you want, too. This is an easy way to increase the height in 4" increments. I don't suggest using lumber. If your floor is the least bit ...


14

If you have an electric hot water heater, it may mean that one of your two elements has burned out. Most electric hot water heaters have an uppper and a lower element; the upper runs until the top of the tank is hot, which provides quick recovery time, then when the top thermostat is satisfied, it transfers power to the lower thermostat, which heats until ...


12

Modern codes generally require 5/8" fire-rated drywall (Type X) between a garage and the living areas of a house. Double check with your local city/county/state as they may have more stringent requirements.


11

There are three reasons a T&P valve opens. Temperature, pressure, or a faulty valve. Temperature If the water in the heater reaches a temperature of 210 degrees F, the T&P valve will open and release water until the water temperature is reduced. As water is removed through the T&P valve, cold water enters through the inlet and mixes with the ...


10

There really isn't a perfect solution to slow-flowing water, other than carefully planning your home so that the water heater is as close to the faucets as possible. As stated by Josh, one solution is water recirculation. But depending on usage scenarios, water recirculation can waste a lot of energy. "Sense" technology that enables recirculation when ...


10

In the UK we have electric showers which heat water on demand - ie they're supplied with 230V using about 9kW, which is enough for a moderate flow of cold water to be heated to about 50C as it flows through the shower. Not only are they directly connected to the shower hose, they're usually inside the shower cubicle - so the unit gets wet and the electrical ...


9

You can go for a small water heater right near the faucet. I have done this with small 8 litre water heaters in the kitchen and guest toilets rather than linking them to the main water heater.


9

Tankless heaters are rated by the amount they raise the temperature of the water at a specific flow rate (and as the flow goes higher, the amount they raise the temperature is lower), for example: Rise in Temp: 50°F 75°F 100°F Flow rate: 3.8 gpm 2.4 gpm 1.9 gpm Basically, the lower your incoming water temperature, the larger a unit you ...


9

A lot of water heaters (that I've seen anyway) are in unheated spaces -- basements, garages, attics (in some countries). The rate at which you lose heat from the water depends mainly on two things: the difference in temperature between the water and the outside environment. The greater the difference, the faster the heat loss. the R-value of the ...


9

After doing a bit of research on what exactly hot water return lines are I found this page which goes into a lot of detail about how they work and their benefits and drawbacks. The big drawback I see is that you will need to make sure that all your hot water lines are well lagged to minimise the inevitable heat loss that will occur with the hot water ...


9

This manual for a State Select gas-fired water heater states "Due to the nature of the typical gas water heater, the water temperature in certain situations may vary up to 30°F higher or lower at the point of use such as, bathtubs, showers, sink, etc. This means that when the temperature adjustment dial is set at the mark approximating 120°F, the actual ...


9

The drip pan's drain tube may not be large enough to handle the flow if you drain the entire water heater through it, leading to an overflow of the drip pan. I would be safe and use a hose to connect the outlet to the drain.


9

Check out the 1 or 2 gallon point of use heaters that install under the sink. They run on 120VAC and are fairly easy to install with minimal plumbing changes. There are also above sink mounted hot taps that mount into the sprayer hole in the sink. These are usually used for hot water for coffee/tea etc. Both of these type products are available at your local ...


9

Newer water heaters do not last as nearly as long as they used to. Nowadays, you are lucky to get 10 years out of one. This is due to the way they are manufactured. There are still some water heaters around that are from the 1960s that work perfectly fine. The tanks on some of those heaters are made out of copper, and won't corrode like modern steel tanks. ...


9

Answer to Question asked originally That appears to be unused piping that goes nowhere now. The valves were shutoffs for whatever was that direction. The pipes appear to be capped now, meaning the valves have no function now. Answer to question as Edited These pipes and valves still have no purpose. Take the picture you posted to your maintenance people ...


8

The concern that I know of is about the size of the pipe and all appliances that can be running at the other end. So if they ran out of a larger dimension pipe (or just had a lot of the smaller dimension) this would almost make sense. But I'd think any normal installer would try to minimize the parts cost and split it closer to the appliances. However, if ...


8

It could be that the Thermocouple has failed or is failing. This would cause the system to think there is no flame present, and shut off the gas supply for safety (so it doesn't fill the house with gas). If you don't feel comfortable working on the heater; or you don't have the knowledge and/or tools to do so, call a trained professional to come take a ...


8

The numbers you need are flow rates and desired temperatures. For example, Home Depot's guide gives the following flow rates: Bathroom Faucet: 0.5 – 1.5 gpm Low Flow Kitchen Faucet: 3.0 – 7.0 gpm Shower: 1.0 – 2.0 gpm Dishwasher: 1.0 – 2.5 gpm Clothes Washer: 1.5 – 3.0 gpm Tankless heaters are rated for how much heat they provide at a given flow. If ...


8

Check the manufacturer's installation instructions for the heater. As far as I'm aware, a gas appliance only has to be raised off the floor if there's a possibility of flammable vapors being near it (e.g. in a garage). IRC P2801.6 Water heaters installed in garages. Water heaters having an ignition source shall be elevated such that the source of ...



Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible