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15

The only real answer is to fix the root plumbing issue. You are basically begging for problems by not fixing it. This can do serious damage to your house over time. There might even be health issues if the traps are not holding water (water flowing out of them due to incorrect slope) and sewer gasses are escaping into your house, not to mention the ...


13

A washing machine should have One detachable flexible cold water feed of indeterminate length. One detachable flexible hot water feed of indeterminate length. One possibly detachable flexible drain line of indeterminate length. One permanently attached electrical cord of indeterminate length. So the problem you have now is figuring out how long each ...


12

Motors dont break... the brushes used to power the coils or the golden fingers used to get the power are for sure worn out and needs replacing.. This can be a difficult task sometimes and these parts could cost $50-- so by replacing the motor of an equivalent type you should expect the same life span based on the usage of the machine. In this picture you ...


11

I don't know of any specific schedule, but I can recommend several "best practices": Buy braided hoses. These are the metal hoses with an inner plastic tubing. They are NOT guaranteed not to fail, but their failure is much less likely. Their most vulnerable failure point would be at the connection to the coupling. Inspect the hoses annually. Do not ...


8

An overflow of suds is what you get when you use too much laundry detergent, or when you use a cleaning compound that is not intended for use in a washing machine. If you are using an appropriate product and you are getting excess foam (foaming out of the machine, or residual foam in the garments, or foaming out of the drain), cut the amount you use in ...


8

The usual remedy is to install a water-pressure regulator (aka. water-pressure–reducing valve) where the water line enters the building: They cost about $70, and the plumber should be able to install it in less than an hour. But since you live in an apartment, this is probably something the landlord or condo management company would have to arrange. ...


6

The answer to that question in Electrical standards is NO! The problem is that both these machines use heating elements that can cause surge power to heat water. Now if you use(not you but anybody unknowingly) use them at the same time it could cause an overload. Fine- you are protected by 1-The wall plug, 2-The DB Breaker. Causing such an overload during ...


6

It sounds like you have something causing drain water to backup, and siphon back into the barrel slowly. The drain pipe that runs to the utility sink... does the pipe incline to get to the sink? I had one many years ago and I can see it in my head.. the pipe would hold about 1.5 gallons of water, and would stink quite badly. I never had it run back into ...


6

First, figure out the replacement cost. Based on that, figure out what you're willing to spend on keeping the old one running. Never call a technician unless it's still under warranty. Parts + Labour for one call can be up to half the price of a new machine. (This is not a slight against the technicians. They're entitled to a fair wage, and your 1 hour ...


6

The top hole is indeed used for the washer drain. The lower pipe is used to drain a washing machine pan. If the washer leaks this pipe allows the water to drain away safely, instead of flooding the laundry area.


6

In homes where there are no drain lines in the basement floor, it's common practice to use some form of cistern containing a pump. A quick search at Home Depot turned up the SANISWIFT®, made by a company called Saniflo. The specifications list this unit as having a vertical discharge of 14 ft., which should be more than enough. I've seen similar setups ...


5

Turns out I needed an Agitator Cam Kit. I found one on Ebay for $3 and $5 s/h. A video I watched on Youtube shows that this is about a 10 minute repair. Basically the Agitator Clutch Dogs were worn down and no longer catching. So the lower "agitator" worked just fine, but the upper "auger" didn't spin very well and could be stopped with one hand. Follow-up ...


5

Because you mentioned the load size switch, it sounds as if it has issues detecting the empty tub when set to a minimum change level (small load); this may indicate a blockage of some sort. There is a thin 1/4 inch tube that runs from near the bottom of the tub up to the water level switch inside the console. Disconnect and blow the gunk out of that tube. ...


5

Yes, there should be no problem with doing that, provided you're within distance constraints of the pump. The washer stand pipe should just be a vertical pipe, with your washer drain going inside it, and not actually connected/sealed. This is done so that there is a vacuum break. You should simply put the pipe from this pump along side the washer pipe in the ...


5

There is a partial blockage in a pipe common to both the washer and toilet. With the blockage, the path of least resistance is out of the toilet, so that's where the water goes. This blockage needs to be cleared. Often, gurgling is a sign of faulty drain venting. In your case, I hope it's just incidental to water working it's way back up to the toilet, and ...


5

No. Well maybe it can, but it shouldn't. RTFM If you check the documentation that came with the washer, it should contain the maximum drain height. Generally, the maximum height is around 39" (99 cm). Newer washers often have a drain hose permanently attached, which is designed to make drain installation fool proof. The supplied drain hose shows ...


4

In addition to what Greebo said, they also make hoses with the shutoff built into the hose, but the reviews on these are pretty bad and won't stop a small leak.


4

Experience tells me that at least some models of washer won't hold water unless the drain hose extends above the water level of the wash basin. I can't quite figure out what you're trying to say about extending pipes, but it should be safe to have the water drain out of the washer drain hose at its maximum height. Eventually, the drain hose can be high ...


4

Those covers are usually sprayed with dry paint, that is heated and cured in an over to give the best protection. So a DIY fix will only solve it temporoary. First of all you need to get rid of the "cancer" which is not always easy. With some coarse sand paper 100/200 grit lightly loosen scratch the affected area.(lightly no need to apply great force) ...


4

Can I extend the pipe that is after (above) the U (to leave more room for the forming foam (and hopefully prevent it from overspilling?) You should not use any extender or splice the hose. This could be a place that could easily clog or maybe get pulled on and pull out of the clamps. Also, the water pump is only designed for the height shipped with ...


4

One of two problems, burned out drive belt or burned out motor. This could be fixed by a DIYer, but need to know what level of mechanical ability you have. Take off the front panel and take a look as you run it through a short cycle and be prepared to shut it off or pull the plug if you see sparks or smoke from the motor.


4

Modern washers have a timeout (in case the water-fill sensor fails) which is around 10 minutes, but you'll have to check the manufacturer to get the exact timeout for your washer as well as how much water it needs to fill at your preferred load settings. If (DesiredCapacity / HeaterGPM) < TimeoutInMinutes ...then you'll be ok (I wouldn't cut it very ...


4

According to Murphy and his annoying law, if you buy a motor, then you'll have a solenoid go out, or the controller behind the dial will go out. I've found it's cheaper to wait for something to actually break, if you can't predict which component will break, and then decide if it's worth fixing or you're ready for a replacement.


4

It sounds like the pipe is partially blocked and water can only get through at a slower speed. The drain at the hot water is the lowest point so that's why it is coming from there. The blockage could be anything, from debris that came in through the pipe in the service closet or a sock that made it out of the washer. Since it's after where the water is ...


4

If you're not selecting a hot water cycle, then you probably have the hot and cold water lines hooked up backwards. Or the hot and cold taps are labeled incorrectly. Next time you run a load, touch the water lines or the fittings to feel their temperature. If the cold water line is hotter than the hot water line, then you should be able to find the problem.


4

Ideally, you should move the P-trap upstairs, and vent through the roof. Under no circumstances should you have two p-traps in one line. You get an air-lock between the two, and funny stuff happens. You want something like this:


3

Not really, over 5 decades of being the appliance repairman for family and friends, I've yet to see a washing machine motor give out. All the machines I worked on used split-phase motors, not brushed universals. Unless you get a brown-out that burns the windings out, the motor lasts as long as the bearings. Depending on start system, you might have a ...


3

One or both of these drains are improperly vented. There should be a pipe going up, shortly after each of the traps, to vent the plumbing to the roof. Often this is done inside the wall where you normally wouldn't see it. Without it, the flow of water going down the drain can build up pressure and push sewer gases past the trap and into your home. The fix ...


3

Yes, your washing machine should be level and all legs should be squarely on the floor. If it's not, you'll have unbalanced forces acting on it as the drum spins. During the spin cycle, these forces are much larger because of the higher spin speeds and will make it "walk". You'll need a spirit level to balance the washer. There's usually a gap between ...


3

Is the washer particularly full when this happens, or are you setting it correctly for the load size? If the clothes can't move freely in the water, they can clump together on one side of the drum, causing it to be unbalanced when it starts to spin. Your washing machine is then stopping at that point in its cycle to prevent it from damaging itself, or from ...



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