New answers tagged walls
Cut out wall as shown and replaster:
The terms / phrase you want to use with your local home improvement store are "outside corner moulding". I've seen a very broad selection of this at Lowes and Home Depot in my area, so there's bound to be something there that you'd find acceptable. If not, you may be able to find a lexan or polycarbonate outside corner moulding on the internet. Were this my ...
Most refrigerators have options to swap the side that the refrigerator door is hinged from. If this is an available option on your unit you may want to consider swapping the hinge side so that the door swings open the opposite way. It is hard to tell from your picture if the unit you have offers this option. If yours is a refrigerator that has split ...
The correct way to insulate a basement wall is with rigid foam or spray foam right up against the masonry walls, with air sealing scrupulously done with caulk, tape, and more spray foam, to make sure that no humid air can touch the masonry walls. Once that's done, you can safely build a framed wall covered in drywall if you like to finish the space. There ...
You have not discussed what the trapping of moisture symptom is? It sounds like you found your poly under the sheetrock? It should be against the masonry. Just an opinion. Jeff
Trus-Joist Corporation has an informative .pdf that addresses some of these problems. It's here: www.woodbywy.com/document/tb-821/ (I found this link by Googling the phrase 'I-joists as wall studs'.) One of the main problems I noticed in the document is securely attaching the studs to the floor. What they describe is to add stiffeners to the OSB web at the ...
Perhaps slide a thin piece of aluminum flashing up under the aluminum siding so that it overlaps the lower flashing. Attach it with a few nails just under the lip of the siding and spray the nail heads with the spray rubber stuff or put a dab of caulk over them.
Conventional stick framing in North America has you build the floor first, then build a wood wall on that platform. If your pretend world doesn't have lumber mills, then google yurt.
I guarantee the walls are not parallel but you may not notice it. Point is being off a 1/4" or so in any direction for something like that is not going to be a problem. Just measure up, and measure over from the nearest wall on each side. Probably be more accurate that way than a level if you are not used to using a level. We'd just shoot our laser on it ...
Why not buy the pipe, and make the marks based on that. That is, have a level, hold the pipe up and level it, then mark where it touches the wall. A friend would help, so might hanging or otherwise supporting the pipe from either above or below as you do this.
An interior wall which is parallel to the floor and ceiling joists is probably originally intended to be loadbearing. An interior wall at right angles to the joists is probably not originally intended to be loadbearing. Probably. Originally. There are exceptions, and load may shift as the house settles. When I had two walls opened up, I paid the ...
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