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7

EDIT: On second look, the drawing actually tells us. There's a note box to the right: TYP BEARING WALL 2x4 stud 16" O.C. on Continuous footing. The dashed line around the wall indicates the footing. ORIGINAL: If I'm reading the drawing correctly, IT DEFINITELY IS. For the sake of this discussion, north is the top of the drawing. There appears to be a ...


4

It's going to depend on the type of framing used. Balloon and platform framing are the two common methods. Platform If you're dealing with platform framing, you're going to have to drill through quite a bit to go between floors. First you'll hit the bottom plate of the upper wall, followed by the decking (subfloor). Next you'll hit a double top plate, ...


3

If this were my wall I would: Scrape off all loose paint. Sand area with sanding block - heavy grit. Feather in joint compound. Do another coat. Sand area until flat. Prime beyond damaged area. Repaint.


2

I had the same issue with my curtains. I was able to use the Tapcon concrete 3/16” by 2-1/4” concrete anchors. If your holes are too large for the Tapcons: try drilling out the hole to a ½ inch in diameter and about two inches deep. Then add some construction glue and pound in a ½ inch dowel. You can then reattach the curtain hangers with wood screws.


2

Go ahead and put that wall right on under that beam. The beam is a bearing surface for what is up above the beam. The wall you are adding is a non bearing wall that will not hinder the bearing capacity of the beam. Nail it in place using standard nailing practice. In other words, don't load it up with no more nails than you need, one nail staggered every ...


2

If you are fixing this to a wall with drywall on it, you will need 2 1/2" long finish nails to toenail it with, at the tongue edge. If you are staining it, DO NOT face nail it. If you are painting it, well nail it anywhere you please. The wood you are planning to use will work very well, make sure it will give you the look you want by making a sample, say 3' ...


2

Stock fitting - Male Pipe Thread to sweat (ie, soldered copper) Solder to a section of pipe, screw in, enjoy.


2

In the end we called a plasterer and got it re-skimmed due to the surface being very poor (lots of the plaster came off in the paper removal process). Thanks for everyone's help, maybe it will help future DIY'ers.


1

The primary difficulty you are facing is that virtually all paint is somewhat porous, water based paints generally more so than alkyd (so-called oil) based paints. It is complicated by the fact that the stain that has been added is also water based. While there are plasiticizers in water based paints used to make them more stain resistant, these only ...


1

For tools: I own a Porter Cable FN250B 16 gauge brad nailer and it's great for this type of application. It costs more but you will also get a range from 3/4 to 2 1/2 inches. It is on Amazon for a $140 ($92 used). I'd recommend selecting the material before buying the miter saw. A ten inch saw is only going to handle up to six inch material, so if you ...


1

Lee Valley -- Hiddenbed™ Bed/Desk Hardware Kit -- http://www.leevalley.com/US/hardware/page.aspx?p=72053&cat=53&ap=1 might be suitable. (And not $5K.)


1

There are millions of available types of coat hooks, most of which will look a lot nicer than the carabiners you proposed. The trouble with both of your suggestions is that they require two hands to get things off... one hand to unclip them and the other hand to remove the object. As such they will eventually drive you crazy.


1

According to the response from Shannon @ house-improvements.com (he's the pro who owns the site): Yes that is for sure [the wall is load bearing]. Three things tell me that: there is a concrete footing (dotted lines) under that wall. there is a note about a header in that door opening. the span of those joists over to the main beam is to ...



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