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3

I recommend that you should insulate this room like a basement: with rigid foam covering the exposed masonry walls, with the seams and edges sealed off to make it an air barrier. No need to frame anything at all if space is at a premium. I wouldn't frame anyway without rigid foam here, since the thermal bridging of the studs will compromise the insulation ...


3

It's probably not going to be as simple as "tighten up the bolts" - mysteriously unscrewing themselves is a low likelihood .vs. "there's some deterioration in the wall where they attach" which will need to be addressed. Or "Someone sat on the sink and stressed them/the wood they were attached to." So, the sink probably needs to come off to effect a lasting ...


2

The correct way to do it is to remove some of the drywall from the ceiling, and install cross braces between the joists. You'll then attach the top of the wall to the cross braces. Anything less and you'll have movement in the wall, and you don't want the wall moving (especially if it's tiled). Sounds like you've got a nice project going. Don't half-ass ...


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In the end we called a plasterer and got it re-skimmed due to the surface being very poor (lots of the plaster came off in the paper removal process). Thanks for everyone's help, maybe it will help future DIY'ers.


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The problems associated with insulating brick, block, or concret walls vary depending upon environment, construction, and even sunlight. I is critical to get a for sure assessment of the overall situation. This is an instance where money spent on a documented professional consultant money well spent. I have come behind DYI folks many times....some of them ...


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The splodges look like jellyfish. Add some fish and bubbles and tell people you redecorated.


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The primary difficulty you are facing is that virtually all paint is somewhat porous, water based paints generally more so than alkyd (so-called oil) based paints. It is complicated by the fact that the stain that has been added is also water based. While there are plasiticizers in water based paints used to make them more stain resistant, these only ...


1

This sounds sketchy to me. The zinc-plated screw-in drywall anchors are actually quite string, and could be used to partially secure a wall in some cases, in my opinion. However, given that: This is a shower You are putting tiles on this wall The other edge of this wall is secured only to furring strips Any movement at all is likely to crack the ...


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Base shoe molding is really rather flexible and should be able to push up to walls that are more than an inch or so out of alignment over a reasonable length of say nine or ten feet. You did not show any picture or quantify the amount of bowing that exists so it is hard to take the shoe molding fit any farther without more information. Normally when ...


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Depending on where you live and the rights as a renter, this seems like something that should be taken up with the building owner. You can certainly attempt mitigation, but from personal and anecdotal experience, mold growth that shows up in living areas, is usually a sign of much worse mold behind those visible surfaces. Often times this would require mold ...



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