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3

Personally, I'd lean toward installing something rigid (wood/plywood/metal) that bridges between the studs and installing the TV on that, so the weight is going to the studs on both sides. Depending on your skill level and what you're placing around it, that could be a simple pair of one-bys painted to match the wall, or a nicely finished piece of plywood ...


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Provided you don't have knob-and-tube wiring, this one is easy. Remove the vinyl siding, cut holes through the EPS foam and the sheathing at the top of each stud bay, and inject dense-packed cellulose into the empty stud bays. Should be pretty cheap and help a ton. I wouldn't use retrofit-style non-expanding foam. It'll be more expensive, highly flammable, ...


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Normally the long metal arm holds all the weight. The screws are just holding the shelf in place. With the upside down shelves all the weight is on the screws/bolts. They will not be able to hold as much weight. It might be good enough. Or it might not and piles of books come crashing down on someone's head. There are calculators online to figure out ...


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Yes- minor problem - When the support is beneath the shelf the load pushes down at the bottom and out at the shelf edge. When the support is above the shelf the load pulls down at the back of the shelf and out at the top Anchoring into brick is a bit tricky and much harder to achieve pull force resistance to the anchor. It can be done but I would consider ...


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Success. I used a 2 x 10 long enough to ensure mounting to the two metal studs. I drilled the 4 half-inch holes in the wood for the toggle bolts (rated at 265 lbs each) to go through. Measure twice... For mounting the articulating bracket I drilled the 4 holes and countersunk the backside to cover the bolt heads using a 1" spade bit for that side which ...


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Note: I am not an engineer, and I haven't done any kind of load calculations on the recommendations below. I did some somewhat related research on how to hang a 100LB heavy bag (punching bag) from a wall (just one wall). Initially I was thinking about using pipe and a pipe floor flange, but I decided that a pipe attached to a wall was not going to be ...


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I would pat the ceiling with fire hot wet sponges (have used paint rollers too) and then scrape off as much as you can. Then you skim the ceiling. I have both used @BrianK's method of rolling and have just used a long putty knife. They both have their good/bad points. Rolling a ceiling is an absolute mess so you would have to tarp everything. For a ...


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I have heard of an old Wall-paper installers trick, but have never done it myself. You take some joint compound and thin it down so that it can be put on with a smooth roller. You then roll it onto the wall. After three or so coats (let dry between coats), viola - the wall is smooth. Like I said, I have never tried it myself. But maybe someone else here ...


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Think about 1/4 inch drywall. It can be glued or screwed up and is much easier, faster and neater than trying to take the existing finish down to smooth. You do need to deal with seams and edges at the baseboard, but it is still faster an easier. Links are for illustration only and not an endorsement of products or sources.



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