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5

Zipties (aka cable ties). Be sure to use ones that are UV-resistant. Cost pennies each, strong enough for the application you're talking about, non-damaging and non-permanent, and easy to remove when done.


2

You don't have to caulk something just because you normally caulk it. There is a reason why everything is done and learning this will save you time and money. Since you've had the home for a year already, I'd guess that you know if water leaks in or if you can feel drafts near them? If so, caulk it. If you have a reasonable doubt that they might not be ...


1

I've used that material before and cut it with a sharp razor blade and a clamped straightedge. I didn't use scissors because like you said, there's really no way to get a good clean cut. I agree that something like a router will generate too much heat, and could just not cut it at all because of it's rubbery flexibility.


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The approach is usually progressive. You try a less aggressive cleaner to see if it works, and if not, then move on to a more aggressive. At some point, you may find that the cleaner damages the surface, so test in an inconspicuous area. I would use paper towels and a mild scrubbing pad, and I would use cleaners in the following order: a soap based ...


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If you didn't put insulation and/or a poly vapor barrier over the bare dirt before you poured the basement slab, you made a mistake, and that mistake is causing moisture in the soil to wick into the concrete, keeping it saturated with water. That's very difficult to fix now, but vinyl will not mold, so you may be okay. If you're really worried about it, you ...



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