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A standard SDS drill would not be strong enough. I seriously doubt there is any such thing as a 6" SDS bit. This is -at minimum- a job for an SDS-max or spline drill. Those bits are several hundreds of dollars; this is an inexpensive one I have also seen hole saws designs for a 7.5" or 9" grinder...


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The vent should be going directly outside, not venting inside the attic near a screen. Also, the pipe should be covered in insulation to prevent the warm humid air from cooling down so much that the water vapour condenses and runs down the pipe into your bathroom. This might be damaging your ceiling drywall, which is a pain to repair. Extend the pipe ...


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I just confirmed with inspector for my use case - with forced air (fan) I can route down to route through floor joists. Exit can be on side of house if a) more than 10' from a window and b) not in a walkway.


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Due to the grease and other unwanted fumes being exhausted this is not a good idea for a range hood in the kitchen. You would be surprised at how easily grease builds.


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I don't think there is any restriction against an exhaust going downward. A slightly downward direction is standard in some installations, like when a soffit exhaust vent (common in extremely cold and snowy environments) is used with a fan box which sits above the ceiling joists.


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Your toilet and washing machine standpipe probably empty into the same pipe. There should be a p-trap at the bottom of your washing machine standpipe that always holds water, sealing it so that sewer gases cannot enter the building through the standpipe. There should also be a vent pipe running upward from the washing machine waste pipe, just downstream ...



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