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9

I too, was in search of Tuck Tape at Home Depot / Lowe's and couldn't find it. When I asked a salesman about it, they didn't understand what I was looking for. When I said I wanted to seal the edges of vapor barrier, they told me to use the Tyvek tape, the same one you found. Duct tape won't cut it; it's too porous. We used the Tyvek and it's worked well ...


6

At this point, it's not a DIY project. You need to consult an engineer or an architect/engineer that is used to these kind of building envelopes. A sealed envelope with an ERV needs to be designed and PROPERLY sealed, and the ERV capacity needs to be determined and designed by an engineer in order to meet building code and pass inspections. Note: I'm in TX ...


5

Most crawl spaces are vented if they have an earth floor or are prone to moisture. If you insulate between the floor joists with a moisture, mold and vermin resistant insulation (foam as we discussed before) you would still want some ventilation. The only time I would seal the exterior walls would be if I also used a pretty darn water tight moisture barrier ...


5

Yes vapor barriers are to prevent condensation inside of insulation, greatly reducing its efficiency. In your climate, if you use air conditioning and that space has insulated exterior walls, you will want a vapor barrier on the exterior side of the insulation to prevent outside humidity from condensing inside the cooler insulation. If your exterior walls ...


4

Karl is right on with his advise to consult an HVAC expert to help you with this situation. I agree that the foam is far superior to batt fiberglass and worth the extra cost. There will be several considerations such as types of fuels used in the home, ie; gas range, fireplace etc. Other items worth a look are possible Radon, window and door schedule. Your ...


4

Since you're going to have the walls open, I would use pre-faced fiberglass batting. The rolls give you more flexibility than the pre-cut batts if you have non-standard height walls and they're usually a little cheaper per square foot, but I see special offers in the big-box stores all the time so shop around. There's no special trick to installing it, but ...


4

Typically, nothing is done. That puncture should be at a tight connection of drywall to stud, where airflow is impeded by the pressure of the screw holding the drywall and vapor barrier to the stud. The vapor barrier isn't an impermeable seal, it just dramatically reduces movement of air and vapor between interior space and exterior walls.


4

I think you'll have to get one of these vapor barrier boxes, and fit it before installing your electrical box. Seal up where the cable penetrates, then install your electrical box. The other options would be to cut a larger hole and patch drywall, or seal it up from the back side (but that would require access to the other side of the wall/ceiling).


4

I'll answer the second question first: Where would I go looking for any such information for my location? Your city's building and code inspector's office. But note that because something is to code doesn't necessarily mean it has to be done that way--provided you can show why your way is better. Which leads to your first question: Does anyone ...


3

It is a good idea to seal any apertures between the crawlspace and the main house. If you have to rely on caulk and spray foam you're probably in a situation where the house has some weird structural problems - that is, you should not have giant gaps between the crawlspace and the floor above in any normal construction regimen. It is not a good idea to ...


3

IMO you are making several leaps here that don't fit. You've got mold below a window, spread out about 2 feet on either side, and you suspect condensation as the culprit. You specify that the damage is old - years old by the look of it. Condensation happens every year, every season. Why would the damage be old, it should be fresh if it's condensation. ...


3

Presumably you are going to have heat early/late in the season, when it gets cold at night. If you ever want to heat the cottage in the winter, it's also significantly easier to do now than it is later. I would install a vapour barrier in this case. It's needed when warm meets cold; in cold climates, on the warm side, to prevent moisture from forming ...


3

No, there's no need to install a vapor barrier between two conditioned spaces. The purpose of a vapor barrier is to prevent warm moist air from traveling through the insulation and condensing on the cooler side, which can easily happen in cold climates. With a conditioned space on both sides, you can allow any moisture in the air to pass through. There's ...


3

I have a few questions and observations that will effect what you should do. First, I see that the peak (ridge) seems to be over the existing framed and drywalled wall. What is on the other side of this wall? Is this garage attached to the house or free standing? Do you have or intend to put any heat or heat dump register in this space? I also noticed ...


3

I prefer fiberglass batting over blown-in insulation because it's not as messy, you don't have to rent a machine to do it so you can do it at your own pace, and if you need to do any subsequent work in the attic, it's easier to move it out of the way then move it back again later. I'm not sure about the relative cost, but I frequently see special offers ...


3

I completely disagree with BMitch here. If you live in an area with sustained freezing temperatures, you should have a plastic vapor barrier between the drywall and the studs, wherever "warm meets cold" (exterior walls, top floor ceiling). You want this vapor barrier inside your insulation so the barrier is toward the "warm" side of the thermal break ...


3

Nope, it shouldn't cause problems with moisture buildup -- but how much blown in fiberglass do you have up there? If it's less than your roof joists, it's not enough, and you should think about adding some (or a lot, actually) to bring you up to R-30 at the least in your attic. If you do have that much up there, but you moved some to the side to put down ...


3

Yep, the 120 year old houses do make life more interesting (and expensive and/or colder.) Use an air barrier that is NOT a vapor barrier. More commonly known as housewrap. Vapor moves through, but bulk air movement is reduced. For insulating inside the floor joists, either blown-in cellulose (which supposedly has very little issue with vapor, due to having ...


2

Increasing your wall thickness to facilitate 6in insulation is a fine idea, can't hurt. A vapor barrier of 4 mil plastic with taped seams should always be installed between the insulation and drywall. this will stop moisture from the outside from penetrating the back of the drywall and conversely, humidity from inside collecting in the insulation. T111 ...


2

Moist air is condensing (barring any oughtright leaks) It is most likely due to air leakage from house to attic: Ceiling to attic is leaking moist air, condensing. Solution: air sealing of all penetrations (light fixtures, ducting, electrical, gaps in construction) Insufficient insulation, combined with air leakage allows condensation to occur. Vapor ...


2

You don't seal the vents, ventilation of the crawlspace is needed to prevent moisture buildup and rot. I had to take on the very same project. There are three objectives. Under house air can have mold in it, you shouldn't be breathing it, block all air exchange between the living space and the crawl space. Under house moisture levels must be brought down ...


2

No, you only want a single vapor barrier. A second vapor barrier would create a moisture trap that would cause more mold issues. If there's a condensation issue, I'd replace the section of HVAC ducts with an insulated duct. The insulation inside the duct prevents the outside metal part of the duct from getting cold enough to result in condensation.


2

Safest bet is to replace it of course - but in your case I wouldn't call it necessary. There's an easier way to replace the vapor barrier. Run the barrier over the trusses. Keep it flush to the drywall but run it up over the truss and down again. Of course, if your house is that old that it had vermiculite, I'm going to bet that you've got about 8 ...


2

You should, so that any moisture that gets behind the cement board runs into the tub or shower instead of into your wall cavity (causing rot or mold/mildew). If you overlap the moisture barrier with the raised lip around the tub, any moisture has only one path to take due to gravity -- down the barrier and into the tub. I usually use thick-mil plastic ...


1

"I am thinking to just form a small pocket around this whole thing, and then tape up the holes where the wires go through, and tape around the 2" suction line." Seems like you answered your own question. I like that you're being fastidious about the vapor barrier, but I have some questions for you. How new is the house? How comprehensive is the ...


1

You can use Tyvek tape (or Tuck tape in Canada) to seal any tears in the paper. bcworks's answer is right about not wanting multiple vapor barriers, and that your only vapor barrier should be on the conditioned side of the insulation (closest to the inside of your home). In the winter, humidity levels will be higher inside of your home and without a proper ...


1

The purpose of a vapor barrier is to prevent moisture from condensing in the insulation, greatly reducing it's insulating value. To do this, it must be placed on the warm side of the insulation. In cold and moderate climates, this is towards the living space. In hot humid climates where keeping the living area cool is the primary concern, it goes towards the ...


1

There is more to it than vapour barrier. The rigid board most likely meets all the required vapour barrier but does it create enough thermal break? Warm air can still hit the foam board and if the board is cool enough warm air can condense on it. Most rigid board is R-5 per inch so you probably need 2 inches to create the thermal break necessary. On dow's ...



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