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3

You should be able to find a P-trap assembly available at any local hardware store. The horizontal section should attach directly to the drain line coming out of the wall, while the vertical end should accept the tail piece from the sink.


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Standard bathroom vanities were made at 32" years ago when many homes typically were 2/1's with a shared bathroom. That means parents and children would be using the same vanity. To accomodate children, vanities were lowered to 32" which is standard height. Now that many homes have multiple bathrooms and even a dedicated bathroom for each room in the ...


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If you can mark the shims at the face of the cabinet, remove them temporarily, cut them slightly shorter than the mark, use a black marker to "paint the visible sides of the shims and set them back in about a 1/8" behind the face of the cabinet. Using a tube of clear water cleanup caulk, with the tip cut really small, say about 1/8" at the tip, draw a line ...


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Sink needs to be above the drain and the trap need to fit between to sink and drain. Since the trap keeps sewer gases from entering your house through to drain, they are very important.


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I have the same problem. These doors are crap. The backings are 1/8" fiber board glued to the mirror glass. This 'fake' wood is warping from bathroom moisture, hence the mirrors are becoming unglued and starting to flop. I am considering replacing this cabinet instead (with a higher quality more pricey one, sigh!), since the 2nd (of 3) door hinges broke ...


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If you're looking for something like this (only hopefully fancier). You could simply build the cabinet in such a way, that there is a brace where the pedestal part should connect. Just make sure the brace is strong enough to support the sink, and has a way to connect the sink to it while also allowing the plumbing to pass through. NOTE: These ...


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This is not a trivial project, as apron front sinks have straight edges on the front sides and bottom. 2 cleats should span under the sink to support the weight. They should be sturdy enough to make the cradle, perhaps 1x3 or 1x4, oriented like joists. You could reinforce the cabinet sides with the same size boards laid flat and extending to the cabinet ...


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I don't think this is a design matter. It is a matter of the flooring. You tile or whatever and it extends close to the wall - well doesn't matter a lot because vanity it over it. So there makes doing that side of floor easy instead of cutting the tile to fit exactly at vanity. And then that is the next point, what do you do if you get a new vanity? If ...


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Most standard type box vanities are constructed with a back stile across the width of the unit at the top/back. We never connect them to the floor. We find the studs in the wall and screw the back stile to it. When doing this, you can correct the level both side to side and front to back. Strategic use of shims helps in the leveling process, but the screws ...



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