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There are several stain-like finishes for wood: Penetrating stain - can only be used on unfinished wood. Several coats can be used to even the tone and make it slightly darker. Once the wood has a finish coat, it will only sit on the surface, and usually looks bad. (Most are solvent based, but there are also water based stains) Varnish/poly stain - this is ...


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I would probably just cut out section of subfloor around this mess, and the section of drywall, and then re-route everything (under the subfloor) so the pipes come out of the wall. It's not that difficult, and it's probably less work than modifying cabinets and doing the creative plumbing necessary to get this to work. Of course, this might also mean ...


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Cut that pipe out in 2 places. One place is above the bottom shelf of the new cabinet and mid way between the 2 fittings on the upper pipe that goes at a 45 degree angle. Recouple it back together when the cabinet is installed. The supply lines need to be relocated too, but you may be able to move them around to get past their issues. The cutting of the ...


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The makers of those tops will have the seam adhesive to join the tops permanently. If they are anything like Corian by Dupont, they want to protect their warranty. You may need to do some convincing to an installer to sell you the adhesive you need. It can be done, I have done it before. It takes a router or a belt sander to get the joint down flush after ...


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I don't think this is a design matter. It is a matter of the flooring. You tile or whatever and it extends close to the wall - well doesn't matter a lot because vanity it over it. So there makes doing that side of floor easy instead of cutting the tile to fit exactly at vanity. And then that is the next point, what do you do if you get a new vanity? If ...


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Most standard type box vanities are constructed with a back stile across the width of the unit at the top/back. We never connect them to the floor. We find the studs in the wall and screw the back stile to it. When doing this, you can correct the level both side to side and front to back. Strategic use of shims helps in the leveling process, but the screws ...


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I presume the sink is faux marble. Try Lime Away. Or C.L.R. - they should remove it without hurting the surface. Comet bathroom cleaner (The squirt kind) works good on light rust spots, but would take a while on really severe spots.


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Yes, you can reroute the pipe. 1) Draw a diagram mapping out how you want the pipe rerouted. Use 90 degree angles and remember you need to leave room for the trap which in your case will be an "S" trap (so named because it looks like an S that's been rotated 90 degrees. This looks like inch and a half pipe but you can cut a piece off the top and take it ...


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If you don't care about the existing granite, a hammer strike near a corner should split the slab and make it easy to wiggle a large flat blade screwdriver to "separate and lift". To minimize munging the cabinet, place a smallish piece of broken granite beside the next victim and use the former as a fulcrum.


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You'll have to get it started somewhere, but a thin wire wrapped on a handle at each end (as for cutting cheese) will normally cut things off if glued with something reasonable (ie, silicone or similar.) If they epoxied it in place, it's going to be much more difficult. Heat would be my first approach in that case, hoping the stuff softens, or turns out to ...



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