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7

First really look for the watermarks. These are usually ultrafaint in a corner. They could even be upside down. Second look for any chips on the edges. If there are chips it isn't tempered. Third if you need the hole just drill it. Use the smallest bit you have to start and work your way to the size you need. Wear gloves but putting a tiny hole in ...


3

Your vanity plan should have front side doors in line with where the sink is located. Then the drawers should be off to the left or right side where there is plenty of height and space toward the back to accommodate their placement. There are multiple reasons to not put drawers in the vanity under the sink area: People stand in front of the vanity at the ...


3

It would not be uncommon to install blocking around on the inside top edge of the vanity cabinet to butt up against the top assembly to hold it level without the top rocking around. Such blocking could be pieces of wood 3/4" thick that you glue or screw to the cabinet sides at the necessary height. As far as that edge along the sides....only you the ...


2

In my limited experience, the top is commonly adhered with either silicone caulk, or hot glue, neither of which care much about grooves (they will fill them where they happen to meet the glueline.) Typically make some sort of witness marks as you where you want the top, remove it, glue or caulk on the top of the vanity, set the top in place following the ...


2

The source depends a lot on how the surface of the lighted mirror border is created. If the same sheet of glass forms the mirror and the lighted border area then this is certainly a specially made glass. Such glass would have the mirror finish applied across the back with the border edges chemically etched to create a frosted glass behind which the back ...


2

Most of the installed mirrors I've met in the course of my work have been non-tempered. Especially since you can't find markings, I'd assume that it's not. And really -- the worst that can happen is a cascade of smallish hunks of glass. Then you'll send out for some glass that's appropriate for your needs. Wear safety gear and go for it.


2

Your number one concern should be to thoroughly dry all wet materials. Understand that many materials may be wet that you are unaware of. For example, by looking at the photo, I would presume that you have substantial moisture under and behind the vanity. This moisture has probably affected your wall and floor systems to some degree. If you do not dry all ...


2

If the particle board is stable I would suggest spraying the affected areas down with hydrogen peroxide. The hydrogen peroxide will kill mold and not smell as bad as using bleach. (Bleach will also kill the Mold but may cause more damage than peroxide.) After you are sure the mold is gone if the wood is stable it should be ok. Left untreated this could cause ...


1

If I understand your description correctly, there is a 3.5" void between the back of the draws and the wall. You want to 90 down out of the wall and the install the p-trap parallel to the wall in this void space. Extend the top of the p-trap to the required hight with a 90 pointed towards the basin drain. Then use one last 90 to connect to the basin's ...


1

I ended up replacing the vanity with a slightly larger one and cutting the tile a bit with an angle grinder to make enough room.



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