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8

As long as the p-trap is lower than the drainage from the basin then you can install it. It can also be lower than your exit pipe you need to drain into You attach the p-trap directly to the drainage and manuever the p-traps exits into you existing drain. It is not ideal to have the p-trap below the the exit drain because water gravity has to force the ...


6

I've seen lots of houses that use standard kitchen cabinets as a master bath vanity -- around here at least it's considered an upgrade. A 36" height is not uncomfortably tall for anyone but small children (which is why they're only used in the master bath). My wife is 5'2" and loved the 36" double vanity in our old house.


5

That piece looks to just be a single curve (bent in a single axis), so it's possible to do yourself, but it's not necessarily the easiest thing to do, and you can get some optical distortion depending on how evenly you flex it. If I were to do it, I'd do the following: Trace the inside contour onto a piece of wood. Make multiple wood pieces, slightly ...


3

In the UK there services popping up that offer profesional 3D printing For example 3D Print UK They offer help designing product and i think the max sizes are something like 2.5metres by 1metre. They charge £2 per square cm of material used. In order for it to diffuse light like you require you will need quite a thin print out (cheaper so that's good) ...


3

I think all of the comments are pretty spot on - unless a friend of yours has a large 3D printer, getting a single part made is going to be very expensive. Producing the part is actually not the expensive part, but building the molds used to produce the part can be VERY expensive. So expensive that often times a company might only have a single mold of any ...


2

If you are doing a double sink, I've seen in some homes where one portion of the vanity counter is raised. That way you have the normal height for the not so tall and a raised height for us normal people :). Being 6' also, I saw that and thought "I will have that in my house", having the counter half way between your knees and waist gets very annoying...


2

Is the mirror one piece or is it made of tiles? Is it glued in place or supported by clips, brackets, or a frame? If it is mounted (clips, brackets, or frame) carefully unmount it, have it professionally cut, and then remount it. I strongly advise hiring a professional window or glass man to do this. If it is glued but is made of tiles: Locate a supply ...


2

There are several stain-like finishes for wood: Penetrating stain - can only be used on unfinished wood. Several coats can be used to even the tone and make it slightly darker. Once the wood has a finish coat, it will only sit on the surface, and usually looks bad. (Most are solvent based, but there are also water based stains) Varnish/poly stain - this is ...


2

The makers of those tops will have the seam adhesive to join the tops permanently. If they are anything like Corian by Dupont, they want to protect their warranty. You may need to do some convincing to an installer to sell you the adhesive you need. It can be done, I have done it before. It takes a router or a belt sander to get the joint down flush after ...


2

I would probably just cut out section of subfloor around this mess, and the section of drywall, and then re-route everything (under the subfloor) so the pipes come out of the wall. It's not that difficult, and it's probably less work than modifying cabinets and doing the creative plumbing necessary to get this to work. Of course, this might also mean ...


2

Cut that pipe out in 2 places. One place is above the bottom shelf of the new cabinet and mid way between the 2 fittings on the upper pipe that goes at a 45 degree angle. Recouple it back together when the cabinet is installed. The supply lines need to be relocated too, but you may be able to move them around to get past their issues. The cutting of the ...


1

I don't think this is a design matter. It is a matter of the flooring. You tile or whatever and it extends close to the wall - well doesn't matter a lot because vanity it over it. So there makes doing that side of floor easy instead of cutting the tile to fit exactly at vanity. And then that is the next point, what do you do if you get a new vanity? If ...


1

Most standard type box vanities are constructed with a back stile across the width of the unit at the top/back. We never connect them to the floor. We find the studs in the wall and screw the back stile to it. When doing this, you can correct the level both side to side and front to back. Strategic use of shims helps in the leveling process, but the screws ...


1

If you don't care about the existing granite, a hammer strike near a corner should split the slab and make it easy to wiggle a large flat blade screwdriver to "separate and lift". To minimize munging the cabinet, place a smallish piece of broken granite beside the next victim and use the former as a fulcrum.


1

You'll have to get it started somewhere, but a thin wire wrapped on a handle at each end (as for cutting cheese) will normally cut things off if glued with something reasonable (ie, silicone or similar.) If they epoxied it in place, it's going to be much more difficult. Heat would be my first approach in that case, hoping the stuff softens, or turns out to ...


1

Yes, you can reroute the pipe. 1) Draw a diagram mapping out how you want the pipe rerouted. Use 90 degree angles and remember you need to leave room for the trap which in your case will be an "S" trap (so named because it looks like an S that's been rotated 90 degrees. This looks like inch and a half pipe but you can cut a piece off the top and take it ...


1

It's a grey area. Nothing explicitly says you can't, nor explicitly that you can. An inspector could reject it based solely on it preventing the fixture from "draining rapidly". I see your proposal as OK, it's no different than adjacent basins sharing a single trap. As long as the horizontal offset is less than 30" and there is not more than 90 deg ...



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