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I ended up going to a different supply store. I bought a new Temperature and Pressure relief valve (A Watts brand) since they didn't have just the pressure relief valve. I was able to very easily unclip the temperature probe (it was held in by a small little metal clamp.). The new one is also rated for 150psi. I installed it, turned the water on and voila! ...


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In a normal hot water system heat demand triggers a main circulating pump and a zone valve or zone pump. Without demand, heat can slowly migrate through the pipes by the laws of thermodynamics. This migration can be stopped by the zone valve or a zone pump with a built in check valve. Hope this helps your thought process.


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Turn off your house main, while fixing this. It would behoove you to plan this when no other household members need water. And prepare to do it quickly. I recently had a similar problem, but my house shutoffs didn't work either. I had to call a plumber, who called the town, and shut off the water to my house at the street, while the plumber replaced both ...


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Suggest you gently turn the 'packing nut' or 'gland nut' but only 1/16 of a turn at a time. I've seen this issue countless time with these valves - many of which are well over 30 or 40 years since originally built in the home. In all likelihood this will stpe the annoyuing slow leaking. If not, yes, close the valve fully, then remove the handle and the '...



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