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21

Yes, ball valves or quarter turn valves tend to be more reliable than globe valves. Globe valves require a washer and a tight friction fit between the seat and washer, and if either of these wear out (which they do over time), leaks start. Ball valves are much simpler in construction. A downside to ball valves is that they are more difficult to get ...


15

Why not just use a ball valve? These valves make it easy to tell if they are open or closed. In the open position (gas is flowing) the handle (lever) will be parallel with the pipe, when it is closed (gas not flowing) the handle (lever) will be perpendicular to the pipe. This should make it easy for you to tell if the gas is on, or off.


12

The quarter turn valves usually have a few things going for them: Clear indication of whether it is on or off They (at least in my experience) seize less often, and the handle shape gives more leverage for turning it. Less clearance needed around the valve


9

I'm not a professional plumber (though I did work on water treatment systems for several years), but in my opinion what you did is fine. Gate and globe (stop) valves are prone to corrosion and generally wear out over time. Ball valves are much more durable and reliable. I've seen many, many old stop valves that are leaking or don't shut off properly, or ...


9

There are three reasons a T&P valve opens. Temperature, pressure, or a faulty valve. Temperature If the water in the heater reaches a temperature of 210 degrees F, the T&P valve will open and release water until the water temperature is reduced. As water is removed through the T&P valve, cold water enters through the inlet and mixes with the ...


9

Everybody wants to save money Builders and utility companies are not in the business of wasting money, which means the main line will be as straight and as short as possible. This is a big help to you, since it will narrow your search. Walk out to the curb shut off, and look back at your house. Try to determine the straightest, shortest path between the ...


7

If you purchased one of the generic replacements, they usually come with both the slide on and hinge mounting rubber parts attached. If your mounting is the two side pin type, then you must cut the connecting tabs of rubber that hold the slide on rubber ring, and discard it. If you slide the flapper on with the ring and also use the side hinges, it will not ...


7

Call the local water municipality, they will be able to shut the water off either at the meter or before it. This is something that should not be done by a homeowner. While you may find that you can access the main supply shut off you should not use it, as you could end up being fined by the city/town/county. Also if you damage the shutoff or ...


6

If the drip becomes a flood, it's not the cost of the water you should be concerned with; it's the water damage. You say the leak seems to be coming from the valve itself, and your reasoning makes sense; if the toilet's dry it means the valve is turned off, so it's probably not any fitting beyond the valve stem. This means that the shutoff valve gasket, or ...


6

From the way you describe it, it sounds like it's a regular gate valve. You might be able to repair it as you describe by removing the packing nut and replacing whatever is broken or stripped out inside. The only exception to that would be a ball type valve, but those will just have a handle that makes only a 1/4 turn. Those generally aren't repairable, ...


6

I'm going to assume it's a typical gate valve, and also since you said main water valve I'll assume it's the main shutoff just before the meter. With these assumptions in mind, I'm going to say you will have to call your local municipality. The water company does not allow (or like) home owners to tamper with anything near (and defiantly not before) the ...


6

The first valve looks like it might be a thermostatic valve - the numbers representing the various temperature "settings". There should be an indicator on the bit that turns that points to the number. Try turning this fully towards the "1" and then fully towards the "5". Leave the valve in each position for half an hour or so. The radiator should get a lot ...


6

This is contra turn taps usually used for lever handle taps so they both turn away from the wall on a basin or turn both down in a shower or similar if used in vertical eg. Shower above and below you would get normal taps not contras so that they both turn in the same direction which are the ones that you are used to. Also re reading your post it seems that ...


6

Background: All new valves sold in the USA must meet a Federal anti-scald standard meant to prevent sudden surges of hot water. A typical inexpensive 'cycling' anti-scald cartridge works on pressure only, and does not sense temperature. For example you're showering and the sprinklers go off, the cold water pressure drops, and the valve will reduce the hot ...


5

You will need a compression fitting for both ends if you don't already have them. Often the fridges will come with a plastic supply line but I always like to replace it with a copper one as they last longer and are less prone to damage. You might also want to verify the valve works correctly. If it is a piercing-type valve, the often fail and should be ...


5

There are two basic types of valves--the ones where you turn a handle many times to go from off to full and the ball valves that only turn 90 degrees. In my experience the latter are far more reliable, I've never had one fail in any way. The type you crank many times is another matter--leak city as far as I'm concerned. For shutoff valves there's always ...


5

They're also known as vacuum breakers, such as this one. Some searching shows that they're available from Lowe's and HD (assuming you're in the US), but you should be able to find one in a store near you or online if not.


5

The easiest way to achieve what you are looking for with what you already have is to: Shut off the water at the angle stop shown in your first photo (confirm that the valve is closed by opening the cold on you sink) Cut the copper tubing in half (the tubing between the angle stop and the second valve) Install the valve tee shown in your second photo (this ...


5

Do not cover over the following items: Integral Stops (Item 9 on page 2 of the instructions, there are two) These are the isolation valves for the hot and cold connections to the valve. These valves allow you turn off the water to the shower valve to do repair/maintenance without having to turn off the water to the whole house. Balancing Spool (Item 8 on ...


5

I have had good luck getting these fittings to release with an open end wrench. Slide a wrench the same size as the outside diameter of the tubing over the tubing. Then use it to push in the release collar. It works well in tight areas or where the fittings are close together. If you have to replace any tubing a clean cut is required to get a good seal.


5

A capped opening in a sewer line is called a clean-out, usually they are a 4" long bend wye with a cap on one branch so you can pull the cover and run a snake down the whole length of the main sewer line. In this case, a 2" pipe would be a good size to run a snake down to clear any clogs downstream from the toilet. I'd guess that somebody didn't allow ...


4

First, a silly question for you. Are you sure the valve is not a 1/4 turn ball valve, and are you sure it has not turned off the water supply to the tank. If the answer is no to both questions, then we have to assume the valve is defective and we go to plan two. Now you have two jobs ahead. First, replace defective valve with a 1/4 turn ball valve and ...


4

I have one that does the same thing; it just needs a little more twisting force to get it past that "locked" position. I've always been able to do it by hand, no tools required.


4

Any valve that refuses to fully shut off won't be improved by tightening the handle further. The usual problem with a Globe Valve is that the rubber valve seal has aged and cracked, needing replacement. This means you have to shut the water off upstream of the valve and remove the body cartridge so the rubber seal can be changed out. Some valves have a ...


4

First, no, they don't function as a check valve. They limit inflow by dynamically changing the valve opening so that when less pressure is on the out side, the valve opens up fully, and too much pressure on the out side causes the valve to shut. In a no pressure situation (where water could go backwards), it won't be impeded at all. Assuming that this is ...


4

I ended up just pulling the valve off and sanding inside the snap-on hinge bits. It didn't take much to get it moving smoothly - they didn't seem very rough before I sanded, and I didn't widen them very much.


4

Every shower body comes with part #4 on page two - "Plaster Ground". This is what you tile up to. This is the hole you cut your Sheetrock/cement board to fit around. The trim piece for the body will cover this hole.


4

Have you tried gently tightening the gland nut? It's the hex cap under the handle and squeezes some sort of packing against the valve stem. Tighten only in 1/16 turn increments and only if it moves with minimal force. If it acts in any way like it's tight, somebody else may have already compressed the packing to its maximum and no further seal is possible. ...


4

It's a quick-connect t-fitting, not a valve. You should be able to push down on the little lip at each connection and pull the hose loose. Or you can just cut each hose and replace it with a new fitting. You just push the hose in until it clicks and you're done.


4

Relief valves discharge when the temperature or the pressure gets too high in the tank. When the tank heats up water, the water will expand and the pressure will increase. Pressure: If there is no allowance within the system to absorb the increase in pressure such as an expansion tank or a thermal expansion valve and all the taps are closed, the relieve ...



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