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4

The first issue you need to address is why is the base eroding in the same place time after time? The large majority of above ground pools survive many years with a leveled sand base. The probable reasons for your erosion problem is an unstable base, misguided water runoff or the base is a bit too high in relationship to the surrounding area allowing runoff ...


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Per request, I'll expand my comment into an answer: as for the joints in the concrete, I'd use polymeric sand (typically used for locking pavers). Then the key is to create some sort of smooth pad in between the concrete and the bottom of the pool. Some options: roofing felt (tar paper). Ice and Shield roofing membrane rubber pond liner epoxy (if it's ...


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There are several good foam type underlayments available. For maximum sound proofing, I'd probably recommend one of the high density closed cell foam pads as opposed to the standard blue or white 1/8" lightweight styles. You may have to visit a flooring specialty store, I have never seen the better grades in stock at the box stores, although they may be ...


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Answering my own question here with an email response from a Green Glue associate. In response to me basically asking him the exact same thing as in my original question: This application will certainly work. We would recommend using the heaviest & thickest material that you can...1/4 plywood is going to be a bit too light & thin. If height is ...


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The reason the floor materials aren't as effective is because this problem is best solved with an air-gap and a flexible connection spanning that air-gap. But you have a hard time supporting a floor with that air-gap. Therefore, solving this problem via the ceiling below this floor is better, using resilient or sound attenuation channel there. That said, on ...


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There is no reason to glue down engineered hardwood floor to an underlayment. This is just for initial aesthetics. The glue will NEVER last (in a residential setting). The only thing the glue will do is give you fits and make your install seem tighter. Within weeks or months the glue will come loose and you will have a floating floor. Nothing wrong with ...


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A flexible underlay will compact when walked on. This helps if your floor is slightly imperfect (it is) and people walk on the tongue-and-groove connections (they will). The extra stress could cause the connector to snap off one of the boards. A more compelling reason is that any slight dips in the floor will cause an audible sound every time you step on it ...


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You probably missed "the best option for reducing noise to below" if you put down new subfloors and didn't put insulation under them (assuming you actually removed the old subfloor and had open joists.) Your next-best option would be to blow in insulation from below. If you are already committed to nail-down flooring, I don't think the underlayment will ...


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On its website it says 8-10 hours. However it is not for the application you used it for. It is for gluing wood to things. Not for gluing foam/felt/whatever to concrete. Your underlayment has basically formed a bubble underneath. The wood glue needs a lot of air to dry - hence wood glue there will usually be a lot of air available. Now that the outside ...


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You could use some foam underlayment like used for laminate flooring. It is about 3/16 inch thick, cheap and you can use typar or packing tape to hold the seams. The same train of thought, how about blue vinyl siding insulation. It is 1/4 " thick, 4 ft wide and folds out to about 16 feet. Also pretty cheap.


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You can staple it down - not as messy and fairly quick. I've used something like this on a remodel. It was 3/8" cork over plywood subfloor, then bamboo on top.


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You don't have to glue it but it needs to be secured somehow - duct tape. Don't want the pieces rolling up on each other over time. You would just be duct taping the underlayment to the outside flooring or in the inside seams. And duct tape isn't hillbillying your floor. It is used because how well it handles moisture. Maybe someone has a specific ...


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I would probably attempt to just patch the one area and srape the rest off. Touch up with a grinder. However, that depends on how intact the existing CBU remains after scraping off the tiles and thinset. I would take the path of least resistance. If you try one way and it is taking way longer than the other way, switch.


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I don't know what Green Glue is other than it appears to form a gasket of sorts. My thoughts would be to try insulation along with layering some dis-similar materials to avoid conductive transfer. I'd suggest a sandwich of XPS foam, topped with cork underlayment, then your finish floor (which, ideally, could be dry-core subfloor panels topped with ...



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