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5

This is a picture of one example of a rough shower plumbing install: As you can see, at the top there is a cross brace, and there is a 90 degree angle that's been mounted into that brace secured, preferably with screws but possibly with nails. My guess? Your shower head was braced with nails, some idiot hit your shower head pipe pretty hard and pulled ...


3

This almost sounds like a common problem with draining RV holding tanks. You should try to support the drain hose from the tub so you have a gradual slope reaching from the tub/shower drain to the floor. I have a contraption called a "Slunky" which basically allows my RV holding tank drain hose to be very gradually sloped all along its run to a septic or ...


3

I don't know exactly where the other wall is you want to match up with. The standard method is to shim out your rough opening to be exactly what you need for the tub. That means putting shims on the studs around the tub to get it lined up where you need it. Once the tub is in where you need it, add more shims to the studs above the tub to bring your backer ...


3

PL 530 is not on Loctite's website Are you sure that the number is correct? Given their products with similar numbers, your tube of 530 is likely an adhesive, not a sealant. I would not use it except as a last resort in an emergency. I'd use a tube of sealant instead.


2

On the PL530 label, under "Performance Facts", 1st box is "Features". It says "Premium grade adhesive formulation specifically for use on mirrors, ..."


2

I need to remove a 45 yo cast iron tub for a remodeling job and don't want to damage the surrounding walls etc too much. Pick one of those two, or realize that "too much" has to have quite a high threshold in this case. They don't come out easily, and they were put in before tile, etc was put on, and the plumbing you need to disconnect may not ...


2

Blue or blue-green stains in fixtures is a sign of reduced copper. The source of this can be in the water itself (usually well water) or from the plumbing, usually caused by a very low pH (acidic water) which causes deterioration of the plumbing. This is an article describing the problem. You should get the water tested and have a qualified water treatment ...


2

OK this is a lot of talk about a very minor issue. First the issue is because you laid your first row too high (or it's slightly off level). I would also suggest going a little further out of the tub but if your tiles laid out to that width without cut I could see stopping. Grout the gap. Anything else would be silly at the point. Also your grout ...


2

Diverting the leak up to the shower head using the diverter valve should not be a problem, but your assumption that fixing it will be "pretty easy" may not prove to be true. You are correct in that hot and cold supply to the tub/shower valve needs to be shut off. Sometimes apartment shower valves have built in shut-off valves called integral stops. ...


1

There isn't anything wrong with grouting between tub and tile given that you do it right. I fill up tub full of water (weight) and grout. I feel grout is just easier to deal with. My grout has lasted 6-7 years now in one bathroom without any sort of cracking or separation. If there was separation I would caulk it. It does get mildew and mold and I ...


1

When you have a crack in the bottom of the tub, the area around it will flex and bend (even if it is only slightly), tending to put stress on the crack and making the crack want to continue to grow/lengthen. The first goal is of course to plug the leak and keep water in the tub. But the only proper way to do that is to hold the sides of the crack together ...


1

Sharkbites always spin when connected properly. Well the seal part doesn't but the cover does. If you don't want it to spin I would use copper.


1

I have never come across flanges that weren't compatible, and haven't seen manufacturers specify TPI on their kits or replacement parts. There are plenty of oddball pieces here and there but upon coming across those (on rare occasions), I'd be replacing the entire assembly. There is really no way to know the TPI without removing the flange, but chances are ...


1

This is a discontinued brand/manufacturer called Valley. My faucet handle broke and I saw your picture while I was researching for a replacement. I was able to get a replacement today from Biard & Crockett Plumbing Service Inc in Orange, CA.


1

Rather than fuss over trying to get repair parts for an old mixer valve body, why not replace the entire unit? You can upgrade to a good anti-scald, volume/temp control valve. Any good plumber can easily remove the mixer and replace the unit, You will need access to the back of the unit however. The model of the mixer valve is almost always cast into the ...


1

It appears to be a Moen or one of the Moen knockoffs. Moen units usually will have a name somewhere. This also might be a case where the handle was replaced with an off brand but the guts are genuine. As @ Steven has suggested remove the cartridge and bring it with you. Even if it is an older model the parts may span for many years and be available. Don't be ...


1

I recently took apart the bathroom in my basement. It was a steel tub and I had to bust up the tiles around it to take the screws out, then bust a hole in the other side of the wall to disconnect the plumbing. If you don't need to save it, take your anger out on it. Just be careful not to smash it near the plumbing and be careful to smash it only where it's ...



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