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The best method is to get or make a miter box as others have suggested. Short of that, the quick carpenter solution for cutting with a circular saw is to use the speed square. The triangular shape includes a 90 and 45 degree angle and there are marks to cut other angles. For the 45, you place the lip of the square against the quarter round, slide the square ...


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Use a Japanese pull saw. Quite versatile.


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Short answer: Put some splines in those corners! Based on the details of your situation, that is probably enough. Long answer: Wood movement can be a problem for frame miters because the boards will get wider and narrower with humidity changes. This means the 45 degree miters will try to stretch themselves to be slightly different angles. Here's what I ...


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There's no reason that you can't fasten crown molding to ceiling joists... except that they'll probably only be present along half your walls. Unless you happen to have a hip roof design, the other half will run parallel to the joists and you probably won't have backing. In that case, trim screws with hollow-wall anchors may work, or nails backed up with ...


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The "correct way" to install this is (in this order) to install the drywall, paint, install baseboard, install flooring, finish baseboard and flooring (assuming it's not tile or carpet), install shoe molding. The drywall should not touch the floor. The baseboard both protects the drywall and hides this gap (which is there to allow for expansion). Wood ...


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I have seen this done. There is no special trim. Steps: Install trim Take a utility knife and scribe around the trim exactly. take out enough drywall layer to set trim - some guys just take off the paper mud and sand where needed after reinstalling flush trim Does it look better? Debatable. Is it worth it? Almost in all cases no. Note: My opinion ...


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One thing the trim does typically is hide the edge of the drywall which usually, one would not want to look at because it's rough and ugly. It's hard to imagine trim that doesn't extend (at least the thickness of the metal itself) below the surface of the ceiling. If you want a trimless look, what you will probably need to do is apply drywall compound up ...


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Construction adhesive would certainly do the job, but it would destroy the drywall when you remove it. I'd use silicone caulk as both the adhesive and the caulk to the countertop. It'll be rock solid, and if you ever need to remove it you may be able to do so without ripping paper off the drywall. Just put 2 or 3 quarter-sized dabs along the back. They'll ...



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