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The only thing I use is lightweight Spackle. First fill is fast with your finger. In 20 mins clean off the excess with a damp sponge. 15 minutes later put on a second coat to fill any indents. Again, after 20 mins sponge it off very gently. After an hour sand it if needed and it will be perfect. Minor touch up if needed until you get the nack. I have ...


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Spackle is best. It's cheap, easy, water clean up and you can completely remove it if need be any time later before you paint. And it can't hurt anything, because there's nothing you can't clean it off of or out of at any time later too. First screw, nail and/or glue anything that has movement. fill in all cracks and imperfections, trim to wall and trim to ...


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You want spackle. It sticks, it doesn't shrink, and it can be sanded flush. For more detail, see this awesome article that turned me on to the technique: http://www.thejoyofmoldings.com/when-to-use-spackling-and-when-to-use-caulk-moldings/ Spackle is probably one of my favorite compounds; it just has so many uses!


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I have always had good luck with pencil fillers such as the one below. It takes a little practice to get it to fill the hole evenly, but works great once you get the hang of it. It will also never shrink, since nothing is drying. These come in all sorts of colors: mostly various wood-shades, but also plain colors such as white.


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Less wiping. More time before sanding. Unless you go to something extreme like epoxy putty, it all shrinks. If you leave the filler proud of (sticking above) the hole, let it cure fully, and then sand it down, it should work. In extreme cases you may need to refill and let that cure, but that's adding more time to the program which is probably not good ...


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I do remodeling, and flood/fire damage repair for a living. Most jobs require drywall, flooring, trim, and painting. The best way to do it is- Prime, and 1st coat of paint on drywall/trim Install trim Putty nail holes and caulk edges/corners 2nd coat of paint on everything This makes the priming and first coat easier, and a solid finish coat. Painters ...


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The Family Handyman has an article on How to Install Craftsman Trim, which says to simply glue and nail the stool to the jamb using 2 1/2" finish nails. Once you have the stool cut to length, add a bit of wood glue to the length that will sit against the window frame. Position the stool where you want it, and drill pilot holes through the stool and into the ...


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Looks like you could "float" them level with the existing frame, but screw in from the window side (through the face away from the room, into the part you call a stool that I'd call a sill) which would firmly attach the stool to the windowframe so it could not pull away from the wall. They are probably designed not to have one, yes - "picture-framing" ...


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I have a quality steel Japanese made version of this style that is much thinner and sharper on the leverage end (right). The thin cross-section allows it to slide behind just about any molding without damaging the edges while the width of the blade spreads the force so it doesn't readily split the wood.



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