Tag Info

It looks like all that is seperating the drywall from the tile is a bead of caulking. To fix this, I would first remove all of the existing caulking. Then I would cut out the area of the affected drywall and patch in a new piece, using the factory taped edge as the end that butts up against the tile. Tape, mud and sand the new section and paint to match. ...

Yeah, that 4" would be a long cut. It could be done in two passes, one from each side. The middle area would have a bit of an overlap and maybe a blade mark, but that could be sanded down. Plus you are probably going to finish it anyways. What I would recommend though is changing the shape of your transition piece to make it easier to cut, and would also ...

I think you should be more concerned with the expansion gap than other types of expansion. In my opinion you should use some kind of separation between the living room and the bedrooms, because bigger rooms require bigger expansion gaps. And that difference in expansion could give some bowing.

In a normal room-sized install, both tools are used. The kicker for the first edge and the stretcher for the rest. Kickers are also used in corners where the stretcher is awkward to use. On stairs, just a kicker is used. A kicker is ideally only used to attach the carpet to the tack strip. A stretcher is used to attach the unanchored sides. You anchor ...

One potential location is on the last rise on the stairs. This is depicted below on my crude diagram. Make the cut of the carpet right under the lip of the top of the 2nd floor. Use a piece of trim to hide the cut and make it finished. Other options include: Create a small carpet landing at the top. Take the carpet off all the stairs and make the ...

A usual method is to go down the edge of the wall with a surface bullnose, showing a "knife edge" at the corner. This means the tile rolls down to meet the corner. Another method, if your bullnose has finished bottoms, is to overlap the edge and go "around the corner", having the bullnose round into the outside wall (the wall that has the striped ...

I would glue the guide bar down with construction adhesive on top of the moisture barrier - given that your moisture barrier is pretty tight. Wait a day. If it is pretty solid then I would put the t-molding in with construction adhesive too... tons of glue and the t-molding with a good amount of weight on it for at least 12 hours. You do need to make ...

There are several effective ways to hold the molding in place if you were OK with screwing it in place. One good way I would try would be to follow these steps: Cut and fit the molding into length and shape for the spot it would get installed. Check out the fit and see how well it fits down to the flooring on each side. Note any places where it takes a ...

For the sake of completeness, here's the alternative way of accomplishing this: Schluter RENO-TK I'd prefer this one (exactly the offset I have), but unfortunately could not find it anywhere locally, and tile installation was already scheduled.

In view of the new information, I would remove the mortar in the gap. Seal the edge of the wood floor at the sub floor with a waterproof caulk and use a funnel and self leveling (cement based) underlayment to make a flat base. Tape both sides of the gap with some blue tape to make any cement spillage an easy cleanup. When setup (24-48 hr) and well cured, ...

Mesh is definitively a better blending product. I like to embed mesh with the lightweight setting joint compound and then use general purpose (premixed) joint compound for topcoat and blending. AFA plaster cracking, there are large size mesh rolls meant for skimcoating and repairing plaster. One I know of is 36" by 150' by FibaTape