Hot answers tagged

7

Yeah, that 4" would be a long cut. It could be done in two passes, one from each side. The middle area would have a bit of an overlap and maybe a blade mark, but that could be sanded down. Plus you are probably going to finish it anyways. What I would recommend though is changing the shape of your transition piece to make it easier to cut, and would also ...


7

It looks like all that is seperating the drywall from the tile is a bead of caulking. To fix this, I would first remove all of the existing caulking. Then I would cut out the area of the affected drywall and patch in a new piece, using the factory taped edge as the end that butts up against the tile. Tape, mud and sand the new section and paint to match. ...


5

I think you should be more concerned with the expansion gap than other types of expansion. In my opinion you should use some kind of separation between the living room and the bedrooms, because bigger rooms require bigger expansion gaps. And that difference in expansion could give some bowing.


4

One potential location is on the last rise on the stairs. This is depicted below on my crude diagram. Make the cut of the carpet right under the lip of the top of the 2nd floor. Use a piece of trim to hide the cut and make it finished. Other options include: Create a small carpet landing at the top. Take the carpet off all the stairs and make the ...


4

Since each room in your house will have different temp and humidity levels, the T moulding allows each room to contract, expand, and flex independently of the others. This helps prevent warping and cracking.


3

I had the exact same issue after I took a wall out: tile to hardwood. I cut one side with a rip saw and the other side with a wet tile hand-held saw (to keep the dust down). I used an 8 inch wide piece of oak. I stained it to match the floor and then used it as a guide to cut the other side so that it would drop in perfectly. The picture below is after I ...


3

Solid hardwood is a tough one because unlike the other materials, it expands and shrinks. Laminate and especially engineered hardwoods with a plywood core are much more stable, but they will still expand and shrink a little bit. Certainly more than tile! I'm in the middle of installing plywood core engineered hardwood in my own house and I have tile ...


3

I was only going to post a comment, since both members covered tile transitions, but I seen that the laminate floor transition has not been addressed. I will also throw my 2 cents on the tile transition too. The transition to the tile to wood has been well answered by both members above. Ecnerwal eluded to what I will mention. The joint between the tile ...


3

A usual method is to go down the edge of the wall with a surface bullnose, showing a "knife edge" at the corner. This means the tile rolls down to meet the corner. Another method, if your bullnose has finished bottoms, is to overlap the edge and go "around the corner", having the bullnose round into the outside wall (the wall that has the striped ...


3

In a normal room-sized install, both tools are used. The kicker for the first edge and the stretcher for the rest. Kickers are also used in corners where the stretcher is awkward to use. On stairs, just a kicker is used. A kicker is ideally only used to attach the carpet to the tack strip. A stretcher is used to attach the unanchored sides. You anchor ...


2

For the sake of completeness, here's the alternative way of accomplishing this: Schluter RENO-TK I'd prefer this one (exactly the offset I have), but unfortunately could not find it anywhere locally, and tile installation was already scheduled.


2

You should not be regrouting between changes in surfaces unless it appears that your grout has damage or significant age. A lot of people will say that this change of surface should never be grouted because it will almost always crack like yours do to wall or house movement. I disagree and I usually grout these areas... but I know there will be a crack ...


2

There are several effective ways to hold the molding in place if you were OK with screwing it in place. One good way I would try would be to follow these steps: Cut and fit the molding into length and shape for the spot it would get installed. Check out the fit and see how well it fits down to the flooring on each side. Note any places where it takes a ...


2

It looks like a sanded caulk. The big box stores have these in their tile areas. I would find something that matches your backsplash grout.


2

I have done transitions that just consist of an extremely clean edge, with surface heights matched. In my case I was butting tile to solid-wood parquet, so the actual wood movement is very limited. Likewise, most solid hardwod floors will (unless laid very tightly, very dry) simply open and close gaps between boards (one reason narrow boards are more common ...


2

I created mockups of a few different configurations and decided that I liked the look of the following the best. I created a 45°(an opposite cut of my original example cut; sorry I don't know the correct terminology), and created a "return" that was at the opposite 45° and cut 90° to butt up against the wall. I liked this option because it left no grain ...


1

As an installer, I have done many jobs where my client just didn't want a T-mold in the door ways. When I first started installing laminate, all the sides were glued together. This is where we always used T-molds. Cutting Door Jambs 1These days they sell 10, 12 and 14mm thick laminate. These thicker products from what I have seen do not seem to grow or ...


1

You could leave a very small expansion gap.. 1/8, then fill that with a color matched flexible caulk, pergo makes color matches to each floor they sell, I'm sure other brands do aswell.. then you can avoid transitions, and still leave expansion gap, however your still going to void warranty, the gap won't be enough to honor the warranty, but it's enough to ...


1

The biggest issue will be the height difference from the hardwood to laminate and a moulding to cover the transition. Depending on the height of the hardwood, you are at least looking at a half inch difference (at minimum) between the wood and laminate. And the moulding might also be a trip hazard for any older people as they enter/leave your house. My ...


1

Manufacturers require expansion around the entire perimeter of your floating floor. Depends on whether or not you want to maintain your warranty. If you don't care, fly at er. You may or may not end up with issues. Depending on the height of the tile, I like to use an Edge Mold which butts up to the tile instead of overlapping it. It still overlaps the ...


1

After rethinking your situation, I would cut a piece of flooring to make the transition piece like below. I wouldn't expect the slope at the bottom of tile side of the transition to be that noticeable because of the two lines above it being parallel to the tile.


1

With all the various pieces that make up the sub floor, I would not run tile over any of that. I would use the wood floor all the way up to meet the tile leaving a grout joint's width away from the wood floor to tile. With the wall and tile meeting on the far side, esthetically it may be best to finish the tile there anyway. You may even choose to redo the ...


1

I would use 100% silicone. First you need to cut the moisture barrier so the silicone adheres to the concrete, Then place your T molding down. Set some weight on it then wait 24 hours. The reason why you use silicone is so your floor can expand and contract: the silicone is pliable.


1

I'm not sure if I'm following all the details, but it sounds like one question is how do you finish the drywall around the I-beam where it will enter the sheetrock. I did that in my basement, and a bit of caulk was all it needed between the sheetrock and metal. FWIW, consider painting the I-beam a bold color. Make it part of the "look". As for the air ...


1

The transition problem that you depict is often solved with a trim strip made of wood that can look something like as shown below. It is often possible to purchase a similar molding and re-saw it into necessary shape. However your could also make your own from a length of the appropriate hardwood using a combination of a table saw and a router table.


1

Easiest way I have found... Cut off the top part of the trim right when it starts to bevel. Cut out bottom for the taller flooring. With another piece of trim you need to cut the top off at an angle so that the lower floor height is equal to your trim size and the other side matches the corner. Use finishing nails to put top trim piece on. You may ...


1

This can be a tough problem to work out in a situation like this. Particularly if you are trying to run the same type and size of molding from one floor area through to the other. What I have done in instances where the height changes are small is to simply trim the bottom of the molding so it fit into place over a distance such that the it slopes from one ...


1

In view of the new information, I would remove the mortar in the gap. Seal the edge of the wood floor at the sub floor with a waterproof caulk and use a funnel and self leveling (cement based) underlayment to make a flat base. Tape both sides of the gap with some blue tape to make any cement spillage an easy cleanup. When setup (24-48 hr) and well cured, ...


1

Mesh tape works really well. Some guys swear by paper though. I prefer mesh because its really idiot proof and quite forgiving. Plaster will crack though. Just a matter of time and how many tractor trailers roll by your house.



Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible