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I'd use a pair of Tongue-and-groove pliers, just be careful not to crank too hard.


I'd be VERY careful about trying any sort of tool unless you are sure the tank is 100%, absolutely empty. The risk of shearing the valve off the top of the tank is nontrivial, and if there's any pressure that can be seriously dangerous. Personally I'd be inclined to drag the whole grill to someplace that sells tanks and see if you can persuade them to help ...


In theory, yes, you would need to remove the hardening by heating to the proper temp and slowly cooling, turn it on a lathe, mic in your specs, re-harden... Best bet would be buying more drill bits. Like recommended above, McMaster Carr is an excellent source for more tools than you thought existed. Maybe you need SAE/inch pattern? 6mm=.236in 6.25mm=.246in ...


I would suggest that you look a little farther. Drill bits are available in many more sizes than you mentioned. One big supplier on-line, McMaster Carr shows available metric sizes for heat resistant cobalt steel jobbers drill bits in all of the following metric sizes: If you can find access to a supplier that has drills on the numbered gauge scale or the ...


You can buy metric and imperial drill bits. If your local hardware don't sell both you can buy them online. (ebay) or other site. Also if you try to machine a drill bit down it won't be as strong.


Just gas bubbles in the fillet brazing that joins the carbide to the shank. You can see the brass color of the brazing in the flute. The carbide is socketed into the shank and the braze weld in that area is the true strength element. In brazed joints, the fillet is more cosmetic blending to reduce a stress riser than additional strength, the important part ...

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