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2

It is a shame because it sounds as if your parquet is a good sound floor. If it is that hard to remove then you could lay straight onto it but I imagine there are height issues. You can hire a small SDS masonry chisel which should get them up faster. Wear ear and eye protection. I have a larger machine of this type on wheels that I use on commercial ...


1

I would go further in the event that you want to clamp deep throat clamps or woodworkers clamps. Hand screw clamps can be 6" or more. Keep that in mind for the future. What about a single side with a deeper inset for specialty clamps?


1

Make sure the cutting table has a 'T'-slot for mounting jigs, guides, and miter gauges. You'll also want adjustable blade guides where you can adjust the height of the guide as close to the work piece as possible to provide blade stability and you can get guides that off load some of the heat from the blade which will extend blade life.


2

A horizontal saw is really only useful for cutoff work. A large vertical saw is useful for some types of metal work other than just cutting off tube and bar stock. Blade length hardly matters on a large metal-cutting saw, as a blade welder is usually included as part of the saw, and you just buy blade-stock in large coils and weld to suit. Room height and ...


4

I think you're on the right track, especially in considering TWO saws, one high-speed saw dedicated to wood and another very different low-speed saw for brass/steel. The wood saw will be fine (but messy) with alumin(i)um. You should know a couple more more points. First, the kerf on nearly all bandsaws (except sawmill types) is pretty much identical ...


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That should generally be enough. If you happen to run into a vise or lamp that wants a little more, you could edge-laminate an additional buffer strip onto the bend in that spot.


2

A couple really strong magnets might work. Place one on the floor where you want to drill, slide the other along the underside of the floor until you feel them meet. The top magnet might slide along the floor to meet the bottom magnet, in which case you'd have to reposition the upper magnet to exactly where you want it before marking the spot. The bottom ...


2

The most common technique (other than careful measuring and mapping) is to drill a very small pilot hole through the flooring alongside the baseboard. The hole can be less than 1/8 and you can run a straightened clothes hanger through the hole to find it in the basement. The hole would probably be behind or under the appliance, if the location were good, or ...


0

I WOULD SAY READ THE REVIEWS OF SAWS IN LIKE FINE HOMEBUILDING,WOOD,HANDYMAN,TOOLS OF THE TRADE AND OTHERS.MY DAD HAS HAD 3 SAWS OVER THE YEARS OLD ROCKWELL WHICH WE SOLD BUT WAS GOOD.HE CURRENTLY HAS 2 SAWS A 2HP CRAFTSMAN WHICH IS GREAT AND A 2/1/2 HP PORTER CABLE.I HAVE NEVER REALLY LIKED WORM DRIVES BECAUSE THEY ARE LOUDER AND SLOWER.BUT THAT IS JUST ME. ...


0

The obvious and most direct answer is a table saw as described by mohlsen and in all cases where applicable this is the most reliable method. However, just to offer a different approach, the same effect can be achieved by making a fixture and feeding the piece through a planer. Its more labor intensive and not without its down sides but the cut is generally ...


1

If you are doing a lot of carpet/flooring work, get yourself a hooked flooring/carpet knife (any hardware store will have them). They have a large hooked blade and a good solid handle. Remember to keep body parts out of the "line of fire". #1 workplace injury: utility knife vs. body part.


2

Take a 2x4 or other long straight edge, and stand on it to compress the pad and stabilize it, then use your utility knife to cut it.



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