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You need to get some sort of acid into the affected area. You can use vinegar, which is relatively safe but slow and relatively expensive. You could use citric acid, commonly available as a dry powder that you can add to water, and generally cheaper (per effective acid function) than vinegar. You can also use the nastier sorts of acid, some of which are ...


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It's possibly, but highly unlikely. A more likely answer is that the house must have hard water (or have had hard water in the past.) This leads to iron, lime, calcium, manganese, and magnesium deposits. I would suggest using one of the commercial hard water deposit removing substances- if I recall correctly, one's called CLR (for Calcium, Lime, Rust). The ...


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Based on all the evidence, I think there is still a partial clog inside or just below the toilet. I would auger it again. Also, check other nearby drains that they are functioning okay. If other drains are okay, but the toilet continues to be odd, I think it will soon clog when enough stuff is flushed. Pulling the toilet and inspecting underneath may be ...


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If the water level doesn't drop so low that air is sucked through the bowl, causing a 'glurk-glurk-glurk' sound it's likely fine. (That sound is usually indicative that there's a partial clog preventing the vent from equalizing the pressure as the bowl drains.)


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Open up the back part of your toilet and push down firmly on the flush valve ball (the flap that goes up and down when you press the toilet lever) after you flush the toilet. Your ball/flap probably is leaking a bit and eventually settles after a flush. These can be replaced by following a set of instructions and spending $15.


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Found this on the internet. Ours started thumping after they changed the inside water meter. A continuous thump, thump, thump noise, consisting of evenly spaced thumps when the water is running may be caused by a under-size water meter. The noise may also be a tapping sound. The noise may appear to come from the water heater as the tank amplifies the ...


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As to backups into the sewage system, yes, a saturated drain field could cause that, no place for the grey-water to go. Check around the inspection hole on the septic tank, should be a lot of leakage if that's the case as the tank will be full with no airspace if it has clogged outflow. Excessive rain and drowned drainfields is a common wintertime issue ...


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I suspect the water level is set too high, so it's not emptying fully. I'd try adjusting the fluidmaster fill valve (the black thing on the left) Here is a link to a troubleshooting guide for that toilet, check the poor or sluggish flush sections. http://www.watermatrix.com/proficiency/pdf/resources/Proficiency-Troubleshooting-Guide.pdf Those fluidmaster ...


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In Illinois this wouldn't be a problem provided it adheres to everything on this list and fits these numbers. Your concern may be that the stack is not a clear vertical run to the roof or that the toilet flange will be more than 24" from it. My codes expect 4" stacks to begin with. A lot of people seem to get away with 3". b) Minimum Size of Building ...



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