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If you're willing to pop more tiles, you could run 2 pieces of lumber (2x4/2x6 -- the biggest you can fit) on the flat, parallel to the joists. They'd be wider than the hole by a foot on either side, and you could get good screws through the subfloor (I'm assuming it's sound) to hold them up. Alternately, can you re-route the shower drain pipe to give you ...


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They have Simpson strong tie plates just for this. Cut your blocking to length, hole saw the location of pipe, install Simpson plates using shear strength screws such as teco nails, and then install your subfloor.


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You need to install the sub floor and any blocking before the toilet flange. Typically you would scab 2x4's much like your picture for ease. The only difference is the bottom horizontal members (bottom between joist) are not needed. Install the blocking first. Then sub floor. Then underlayment, if any, then toilet flange last. Really, we would cut half ...


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Usually if the flange is not high enough, a larger wax ring is used or stack two wax rings together. Yours sounds like it is lower than any I have ever encountered. A good plumber with an internal pipe cutter could cut it with out damaging the floor, add a coupler, and with some proper material to hold the flange at the right height, reset a new flange. Seal ...


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I did this only using mortar mix, worked out great except for the gray color.(My flange was 7/8 inch high ) We ended up liking that wide gray band around the base.


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Put a lead fishing sinker inside the hollow flapper to better seal when the flap is down. Be sure the lead weight is big enough not to fall out through the hole in the flapper.


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I've seen some discussion here of fancy plumber tools (a bit too expensive for the amount of use anyone but a plumber would put them to, unless you can find them in a rental store) that apply heat and grip/pull things apart. Other than that (which I've never seen or used, only seen mentioned), I'm prone to consider PVC joints as forever, so the stock ...


2

The refill tube goes into the overflow tube and that water fills the bowl after each flush. However, the original poster is correct that a lot of water is wasted because once the bowl is filled with water to a certain line and if the tank isn't filled yet, the refill tube will keep flowing and the additional water added to the bowl via the overflow tube ...


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Bubbling of the toilet, along with gurgling sounds from drains, are usually signs of a blocked vent pipe. If your sink drains slowly at first, this is most likely the case. Unfortunately, clearing the vent often involves getting on the roof, removing anything visible on the vent pipe, and then clearing the vent with a garden hose or long snake. It's ...


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Sounds like the sink and toilet share the same sewer pipe, and that pipe is starting to get clogged. Looks like the water coming from the sink is filling the pipe and the only place for the air in it to escape is the toilet.


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I drilled down through the floor and installed carriage bolts through the floor with nuts on them.



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