New answers tagged

0

Whatever length wrench you're using, choke up on the handle all the way. "Too tight" begins once you start deforming the washer. Once you do start to deform the washer, you have to toss the, "hand tighten, then 1/4 turn with a wrench," out the window (not that I've ever found that sentiment to be satisfactory). I've never cracked a toilet by over ...


1

I would get a toilet auger. This is like a short snake for a toilet. It will make sure there is nothing in the toilet trap and at the wax ring. It may help. If you notice the bath tub or shower backing up it is further down the line and a longer snake will be needed. Possibly a plumber to power jet / snake the main line.


2

My grandfather was a master plumber for more than 50 years. I asked him one time how tight to make a sink faucet shutoff valve connection. His answer is a classic ... "Tight enough so it don't leak". There is a lot of wisdom in this. The answer for the toilet is the same thing, not too tight but tight enough.


0

I would replace the supply line with a flex line this will give you a new nut and seal and the flex ones don't have as many problems as the solid lines. These are cheap and easy to replace.


0

I had a long chain that was stuck between the stopper and was causing it not to seal. I'd recommend checking around the stopper.


0

Were this my project I'd cut off the fitting flush with the floor and find out exactly how close to normally the flange fits. The inside of elbow should be the same size as the inside of the pipe. If possible, I'd make slight adjustments to the flange by sanding or grinding, then glue it in using primer and PVC adhesive. I'd then be sure to securely anchor ...


3

Buy the kind that look like this: Notice the 'ears' that wont allow it to sink into the hole and the full length square body that would make it impossible to over tighten it (at least, not enough to inhibit functionality - you'll have broken it way before then). If I had to guess, you're still using metal ones or you're dealing with offset (angled) ...


0

Yes, it sounds like something is missing, a bushing perhaps, or you might be missing a lock ring. Not all handles are identical, but in general, the idea is to mount a threaded pipe to the toilet.


2

Assuming you're talking about something like this: Source: plumbingsupply.com and that the tube is connected to the protrusion at the top, I would suggest a simple hose clamp to hold it in place. Source: hcl-clamping.com They come in a wide variety of sizes and one small enough to fit that would be pretty cheap. Just don't over tighten and crush the ...


1

As it turned out, there was no leak between the tank and the bowl, but it was a crack in the closet bend. When I looked into the closet bend, I could see what looked like a crack or pitting, but I didn't expect it to be the source of the leak, because it didn't leak when I poured water over it. Having exhausted other options, I decided to try fixing it ...


2

Try one wrap of electrical tape around the tube. If that ever fails, move on to hot glue (or try two wraps). Try nipping a 1/4" or so off the tube, if there's enough slack. Try detaching the tube and reversing it.


0

Just sharing my personal experience with a bubbly toilet when running the sink. (It was only the sink, as the shower uses a different drainage system.) Long story short: The cause was a drainage pipe that the "seasoned" plumbers installed at an upward angle. I placed an old chunk of wood under it to level it out, and, voila! - no more bubbles singing smelly ...


1

The yellow thing is the fill valve. It is the thing the water actually enters the tank through. There are few different ways they can work but in your example the large yellow body probably houses a float that closes the valve once the water level reaches the appropriate height. The large, black, vertical tube is the overflow tube and at its base is flap. ...


1

Is your toilet stool broken? There seems to be a serious crack as indicated in this snip: If this is a crack as it appears it may be wise to replace the toilet seat as well. Cracks in the toilet seat can lead to water leakage down under the toilet and into the building structure below. This is something to be concerned about as wet wood invites mold and ...


4

Sounds like you need to replace the flush valve and possibly the shut off valve. If you believe you have the water shut off, and you still have a drip, then the shutoff valve is corroded enough to jam before it is fully off. The flush valve is pretty obviously malfunctioning. Replace both of these and you should be back to normal. Good luck!


0

If there is a float on the chain, raise it or remove it. You could detach the fill tube and let it just discharge into the holding tank. But: Be aware that if that line sits below the water level, you're likely violating code (there must be an air gap between the fill level and this tube, so that it can never let standing water siphon back into the water ...


2

Are you sure that 100% of the fill water goes to the overfill tube? Look closely, most fill valves fill the tank through ports at the base of the fill valve which are not readily apparent to casual observation. If your toilet keeps running and the "float valve doesn't reach shut-off level" don't blame the float valve (aka ballcock valve), it's doing what ...


1

I had a similar problem once but the leak was visible and the outside of the toilet bowl was wet. Flushing from the tank produced leakage but flushing with a bucket did not. It sounds like clean flush water is somehow escaping on its way from the flush valve to the toilet bowl. This could be from a misaligned tank fitting or a crack in the ceramic material. ...


0

The truth is INSIDE THE PIPE! The shortest path to resolution on this is to send a camera down. Speculation on what MIGHT be wrong is a waste of time. Having said that, I -will- toss in an anecdotal item not yet mentioned. We have a basement toilet that was easy to clog. As part of a previous remodeling, the owner (or contractor) added a wood-framed wall ...



Top 50 recent answers are included