Hot answers tagged timer
Remove the 6 tabs (at 6am, 9am, etc.) and it should stop any automated on/off actions. It's hard to be sure from this vantage, but it appears that 3 of the tabs are light colored, and 3 are darker. The light ones are used to set "on" times, and the dark ones for "off" times.
Yes this is bad/dangerous because you now have current running on the ground wire at all times. This type of timer requires a seperate neutral (whereas most switches just interrupt the hot) so that the timer can be powered when the switch is in the off position. In your configuration, the line (power) comes in at the fixture and there is likely a 14/2 ...
This appears to be a Grässlin switch. Model FM1 DIGI14-120 Here is the manual (and another similar model)
A couple things could be going on, as @bib and @BMitch allude: Your transformer could be putting out AC 12V instead of DC 12V. (Sometimes these are labeled VAC and VDC, respectively.) Your transformer may not be able to supply enough current to power the pump. The pump and transformer should both have their current listed (in the case of the transformer it ...
This device may help. It is The Shower Manager
If you are looking for a schedule timer; not a countdown timer, it's not likely you'll find it with a separate switch on the same yoke. Even though electronics continue to get smaller and smaller, I don't think you'll find a combination 24 hour timer... Yet. It may be better to simply expand the single gang outlet into a double gang outlet. If there is ...
If the timer is in the fan, it may not be possible to disable the timer without disabling the fan itself. Based on the labels (L,T,N), I would guess that L is the switched input for the light and T is a switched input that starts the timer for the fan. You can test this by disconnecting the T terminal (make sure you cap the bare wire before turning the ...
Well...I typed that too fast, I guess. I just found the answer! Sure enough, this is not actually designed to handle fan loads. UGH. Just blew $40 on two of these. Apparently there's some small print. To quote a review on Home Depot's web site: Works great for lights,but as I'm finding a common problem with all electric supplies you must read the fine ...
It looks like you pull the red tabs in or out to have the device turn on or off for a given 15 minute interval. I'm guessing the black arrow is pointing to the current time. The switch on the side is to manually turn it on or off (or perhaps permanently off or on the timer). You'll just need to test it to see if the tabs being in or out correspond to on vs ...
I wouldn't bother unless you're going to have your water turned off for a couple days. In that case, turn off the water heater itself. You'll have a hard time using any hot water with the main turned off, so it is mainly a consideration of whether or not it's worth it to keep the water in the tank hot over the period you won't be using it.
This switch combines a timer and a dimmer, each controlling a separate load, in a single gang box.
You can replace your switch with a motion activated switch. You can find them on eBay, Amazon and any electrical shop near you! Or you can also use a timer switch (wall) also found in the same places. As mentioned in comments and also a really cool idea. A wireless motion sensor switch. A bit more difficult to find but they are out there. All of ...
From the looks of it, there are only black, white, and ground in the junction box. This most likely means it's set up as a switch, and the white wire is actually a switched hot (and should be marked with tape or marker with a black or red stripe). Unfortunately, since your timer requires a neutral, this isn't quite going to work. What you need to do is: ...
. . . and I found it, sorry, I've looked a dozen times but today my google-fu is strong. It's an Aube Th123 Series
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