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A concrete acid wash , well diluted, about 20 parts water to one of acid, will clean any grout on the floor. But be certain to add the acid to the water, not the other way around, also its an idiot that doesn't use good safety glasses, gloves and caution. Wash down thoroughly after wards with plenty of water.


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Anytime you have to open a wall in an older home, you are opening a can of worms. You would probably save money in the long run by getting a licensed, insured contractor on the job. Once you open the walls, you will probably need to upgrade the plumbing, electrical, and insulation to modern standards. Also, check the thickness of the walls. A friend of ...


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You may not have lathe, but compressed board under the plaster and scratch coat. Either way; if plaster is any way compromised you should tear out to studs and start over. Bring plumbing to code; add a diverter and shower line in the wall; cover with cement board, tape off. Follow manufacturer instructions to a tee. Or, flatten walls with a latex modified ...


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It looks like the problem is not just the grout (which fills the gap between tiles) but also may be the tile adhesive is separating from the supporting structure (possibly plasterboard/drywall). You can remove grout from between tiles using a variety of tools designed for this purpose. Then you can re-apply grout (and sealant if needed) It seems likely ...


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You should seal the travertine tile face prior to "sticking" them on the wall. I use a tight nap roller or set them flat and tight together and spray light with aerosol sealer and wipe off excess. Use the float and you can get messy with no worries. This will prevent the pits and crevices from holding the grout unless that's the look you want. The grout ...


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Mild Sulfamic acid (I've bought it at Home Depot years ago) and wear gloves.


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I can't tell you how much I would be reamed if I plastered a brick wall, then painted it then put tiles on with adhesive for a shower. First that wouldn't pass any inspections in the US. I am not going to go on about how your shower should have been done or waterproofing because that is a different question. Your answer is that you would deal with bowed ...


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Just in case this helps anyone, I spoke to the people at the tile shop and they recommended building the wall out using cement based tile adhesive (the type you buy as powder and mix). I did this and it worked well. You have to work fast though, that stuff dries very quickly!


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I suspect that's butyl sealant that a lazy installer used to prevent moisture from wicking up behind the tile, avoiding a trip to the hardware store. You might carefully trim it off with a razor blade and cover it with what should have been used in the first place: "tub & tile caulk". Thinset has only two consistencies: powdery when dry and ...



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