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Tile over green drywall is not waterproof; you will get water migrating through the group and into the drywall. The best thing to do is to tear down tiled walls, put up a new solid backing, and then put a waterproof membrane over the backing. Then tile goes on the backing. Kerdi is a common backing, and that will be waterproof on top of a drywall backing, ...


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The best way is using the 3,4,5 or 6,8,10 method. Makes 2 perfectly straight lines of 90 degrees..


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You can rent floor grinders. Properly set you can take off a very thin amount of concrete/paint. Then you would likely have to get the edges with a smaller tool. On a side note a slightly rougher surface will help your mortar etc stick to the concrete. I think you're correct in trying to get this up though. Seems like it could be a problem in the future. ...


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I would use a heat gun. Been here before even on thick drywall with up to four layers of paint. Wear a mask and have good venting. Shaves off with a scraper after heating with ease. Not too close or it'll ignite. Wave it in small 6 inch circles and start in on the edges. Once it bubbles or humps it's ready to scrape.


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Gypcrete is about 27% lighter than concrete (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gypsum_concrete). If it's not too late and you don't mind tearing up the second layer of plywood, the gypcrete will be a LOT more favorable in every way. Better for heat transfer. You can tile right over it. That said, if you're already set on the path you're going, yes, I would use ...


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I'm not sure if laminating a sister to each beam would count as three inches (I don't see why not if done properly, for at least as far as deflection is concerned; load calculation I have no idea), then it would be 3 x 7.75, and according to your link (L/673) that's OK for tile. 12 feet of 2x8 is pushing it, for sure. Sister each beam and install blocking. ...


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Assuming that you have drywall next to the Kerdi board it doesn't really matter. The backer board should reach the outside of the wet area. After that it doesn't matter what is behind your tile - drywall/backer. I often just run the backer to the point where I don't have to cut it or to the closest stud. Actually running your kerdi board to the edge of ...


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Hire a competent finish carpenter to remove the trim. Then proceed as "everything you read says" - remove laminate and apply backerboard. 1946 trim is probably better-quality wood than anything you can buy today, and it won't have been glued on with polyurethane either...



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