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This is easily achieved with a mini-split unit for each room - that is also usually the most energy-efficent approach. There are split systems with a single outside unit feeding up to 4 separate inside units (perhaps more, but that's the most I've noticed) but they have worse efficiency numbers than the one-head, one outside unit systems. And, of course, a ...


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A thermostat is only useful if it has exclusive control of a source of heat or cooling. For instance, a three floor house often has three heating zones, with one zone and corresponding thermostat for each floor. Adding additional thermostats without each having something to control would be a waste of thermostats. So, what will each thermostat control? Ed ...


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You should be fine connecting the unused blue wire to the C terminal in the furnace/air handler. You'll notice that on the Y terminal that there's a yellow wire from the thermostat, and a white wire that presumably goes to the outdoor unit. The red wire connected to the C terminal, simply completes the circuit through the outdoor units contactor coil. ...


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First of all, most if not all "wifi" thermostats have a battery backup so the thermostat keeps working even if the wifi goes down. Second, if you lose power, how do you expect your furnace to keep running? Your existing thermostat runs on electricity too.


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The highlighted wire is NOT the C wire. If you read Note 3 it says "Transformer factory wired for 240 volts. Use red and blue leads for 208 volt applications". The only time you'd use that blue wire, is if the system feeding the furnace was a 208 volt electrical system. If you look at the other side of the transformer in the schematic (labeled 24V), ...


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If you just want a timer, it's easy to buy a line-voltage timer switch that you can drop-in where the current fan's on/off switch resides. If you want a thermostat, as the comments said you can find a line-voltage thermostat. THen you just need to run the hot feed from the on/off switch to the hermostat and then on to the fan. Another option would be to ...


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The thermostat wiring needs to be run to the location you want the thermostat or purchase a locking cover. Their are wifi controlled thermostats that you can install so it can be adjusted with your phone tons of option here I just grabbed one for an example.


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Simple trick that fixed my problem. Replace the batteries but put them backwards per direction. It will shut of the lo batt warning then put the batteries correctly. Voila! Weird but worked!


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Before anything, try reset button at the furnace itself hidden behind the cover. It's one of those that activates when the cover is on and deactivates when the cover is off. My problem was exactly that.


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It does not seem that the thermostats are compatible, no. Your existing thermostat is designed to control a heat pump with a multispeed air handler: L1/L2 are likely 24VAC in COMP controls the heat pump compressor R.V. controls the heat pump reversing valve HIGH/MED/LOW control fan speeds the unused wire is just that -- it looks like someone wired your '...


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When it calls for fan, the thermostat is going to short the R wire to the fan-control wire. You are proposing a timer which also shorts the R wire to the fan-control wire. Assuming it's all this simple. For the timer, easy enough: use any common lamp timer which allows hourly on/off. Plug a "wall wart" type transformer into that which makes 24VAC. ...



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