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HVAC transformers are commonly rated 24 volts, 40 volt-amperes (VA). So they should be capable of providing about 1.6 amperes. 40 VA รท 24 V = 1.666666 A However, the amount of current flowing, depends on what load is connected. If the load is only drawing 5 mA, then only 5 mA will flow on the wire.


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Two possible solutions: 1)Install a thermostat from ecobee which comes with remote sensors for individual rooms. 2) Install celing fans in the upstairs rooms. I have the same issue in my house the ceiling fans are more than adequate to cool down the house.


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Since you have an air handler and not a furnace -- I bet W does nothing whatsoever. Unhook that wire from W and connect it to COM 24V at the furnace end, then use it as your C wire for the new 'stat. And yes, the cable from Y and COM that follows the refrigerant line goes to the condenser unit outside.


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Run a new cable with at least five conductors. Connect a wire between COM 24V, and the C terminal on the thermostat. The cable that connects to Y and COM 24V, goes out to the outdoor unit. If the indoor unit only blows air, and doesn't add heat. It's called an air handler.


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You can't make your single-zone system behave like a 2-zone system just by changing the thermostat, unfortunately. What you're suggesting would be roughly equivalent to relocating the thermostat upstairs. To do this, you could either move your existing thermostat and wiring, or achieve a similar effect by getting a thermostat with a wireless remote ...


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I wouldn't follow that recommendation by Mr. Solar due to safety and it's overkill. You don't want the potential to power both High and Low speeds at the same time plus the 3PDT relay is not required for anything, keep the DPDT. The standard method is to use a SPDT contact to change speeds so that voltage is only applied to either the Low or the High but ...


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There are numerous instructional videos on how to change the air speed CFM on an airhandler, so YES. Rather than a switch, it is achieved by the wiring. There will be a chart and a wiring diagram on the unit that will direct you. One speed of air does not match all configurations. A specific CFM on a 3 ton unit with a single trunk line feeding a shotgun ...


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Think twice before you do that, and talk to your sysadmin. Do not do anything which would compromise the cooling in the server room. If you don't like the balance, consider "portable air conditioner" units which dump the cool into the server room and the waste heat into the office space. We had a big industrial unit, and it worked rather nicely. Now they ...


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You've got a wiring problem, or a bad circuit board somewhere. It's possible that the condenser unit is wired to run all of the time, but some protection circuit is kicking in and shutting it down. If that's the case, you would probably have ice build-up on your coils. What is more likely is a relay somewhere is sticking, and remains closed when de-...


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I just had this exact issue. I called the HVAC emergency service number and the technician called me back. He advised to unscrew the bottom of the kill switch or float. There is a yellow wire that leads to it. Once I drained all the water ,the system turned on instantly. Hope that helps.


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If you don't want to run a fifth wire (which, in our case would have been a real pain since the basement has a finished ceiling), and you don't mind losing the "Fan Run" feature, then jumper the yellow/red and the green/green wires together at the central air/heat circuit card, and move the green wire going to the thermostat from that circuit card to the C ...


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Make sure you put the batteries in right. Don't let the springs fool you like they did me. I put both batteries in with the - (minus) sides on the springs. Don't do that. Put one battery with the + side on the spring. It should show you the + signs on the battery holder. hth


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simulate this circuit – Schematic created using CircuitLab Figure 1. Most likely original circuit. If you were really fortunate the live feed to the thermostat would have originated at the original switch. You could then have connected it directly to your new controller. Judging by the photos there is only one live wire so this isn't the case. ...


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It seems that the compressor lost the refrigerator and that is why it could not go below the temperature that would force the thermostat to say enough! It makes sense if you think about it... When I posted the question the AC was still working but at lower capacity due to the lost refrigerator. I did notice a strange smell (like cigarette ashes, but very ...


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When you say that your AC "keeps running", does it ever stop? Or does it keep going forever? I know that many thermostats actually cool a few degrees below the target temperature and dont kick in till a few above said temp (usually a delta of 2F). As a few people have said in the comments, it could be that your blower is set to "on" even though it ...



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