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You just need a multi pole switch. If you are using a T-stat that uses batteries you may only be using two wires to actuate the circuit. In that case get a double pole double throw switch. (If you are using three wires you will need a triple pole double throw.) Like this one. Connect your thermostat to the center terminals and the boiler and the wood ...


I had a furnace guy come in the morning. He saw the furnace and said "Oh my god!" After two hours he decided he couldn't figure it out and they sent another guy later that day. They finally figured it out. Since a guy who works with furnaces for a living couldn't figure it out after two hours I think I never had a chance to begin with. So in the end, the ...


If you've ever assembled a PC or have any DC electronics knowledge, the AC can make things confusing. It's educational to pretend that the transformer is a 24 volt DC supply, and that R/RC/RH is +24V, and C is GND. (not to be confused with the "equipment grounding conductor" - the bare/green wire in 120V wiring.) +24V "power" goes to the thermostat. GND ...


I'll use this gif from my other answer, to try and describe how the system works. I'll focus only on the heating side, just to keep things simple. When the thermostat is not calling for heat, the circuit is open and electricity cannot flow. Once the temperature in the room drops below the set point, the switch in the thermostat closes. When the switch is ...


NO. If this electric heat circuit is on a 30A breaker then ALL the wiring on the circuit must be #10cu (or larger). Even if it feeds just one heater.


This could also be caused if your thermostat is in the warmest room of the house. Or if the thermostat is constantly near warm objects like electronics or even people. When it is really cold outside those heat sources are less effective at influencing the thermostat.

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