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Your best bet would be an IR or instant read thermometer. You should test it from the closest faucet to the hot water tank, and make sure to let it run for several minutes first. If you do use a leave-in meat thermometer, it might take several minutes to get an accurate reading. Ice water should be close to 0C/32F (and if you add salt, it would get even ...


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Your best option is sheet vinyl. Next to that would be tile or concrete. Most other flooring has seams which will eventually leak. Yes, you can place vinyl tiles, or even laminate flooring, if you appropriately glue/seal all the seams. Eventually the seams will leak, and in the case of laminate surface scratches must be sealed immediately to avoid damage ...


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Put a box fan in the door, and let the central AC handle it.


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Congratulations - you have eliminated all the ways this might actually work. Either deal with it being hotter, or add a few options that you say are "not an option" with the most logical one being a connection to the central A/C. With a bucket, you could go with 50 pounds of ice, a fan blowing over it and a bucket for it to drain into as it melts. That ...


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Yes, there could be a little harm. For starters, your water supply to the refrigerator could freeze. A fix for this would be to insulate the water lines and getting a line heating strip: This would be run right along side your water line, or wrapped around the water line, and would prevent the water from freezing inside the line. This is very common with ...


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Assuming a common mixer valve, if the faucet washers are not neoprene, warming may cause the one in the cold valve to expand, choking off the cold water.


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There is no formal guidance or rule of thumb for determining ambient air temperature for wire runs through non-climate controlled areas in residential applications. Ultimately, since it is open to interpretation, check with your local inspector on what they will accept. If the non-environmentally controlled space is going to be close to or hotter than ...


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Size it for the highest expected temps in the area (geographically and part of building - huge differences there). If on the border line, then size to the conservative side and use bigger conductors or more runs. In my area, the high temps would be 105'F If we add another 50'F for an attic (worst case per your numbers) that would place me in the 155'F+ ...


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Bathtub and shower valves have (and are required to have) anti-scald features which limit the temperature. Depending on the valve that may be somewhat adjustable - check the owners manual for it (look up on the web if you don't have one.) I believe the reasoning is that a small child or invalid would not be able to get out of the tub, while it's assumed ...



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