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9

You're dealing with a basic fact of nature, water condenses on cold objects, so you need to either remove the water or the cold objects. The windows will typically be the coldest objects in your home since they have such a low R value. Start by reducing the humidity in your home, run exhaust fans in the kitchen and bathroom for longer when cooking and ...


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Such a variation is not normal unless you are using an abnormally high amount of water so that the water heater does not have enough time to recover. Otherwise, since the heater worked properly when first installed, I would recommend calling the installer.


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Yes. One example is the Honeywell CT50K1028/E which is your basic low voltage thermostat it goes down to 35 F. I'm pretty sure it will work for your application. No hacking or electronics work reqired. There are others. Do a search for " Garage thermostat"


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If the modem is the only problem, replacing it might well solve the problem. As for finding a particular model of old modem at a non-outrageous price - ebay; sometime patience is needed for a very specific model or to get it at a non-absurd price, but generally modems are pretty cheap there. Where the number is programmed - to be certain, you'd need a ...


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I can offer my suggestion for storing clothes and fabrics, but not books. When my wife and I had to store a TON of clothes, towels, sheets, jackets, sleeping bags, pillows...you get the idea....we used vacuum storage bags. Everything sat in a storage facility for over 2 years, the facility was unheated in the winter and zero air con in the summer. Being ...


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You should be just fine storing these in airtight containers, but ONLY if you are absolutely sure they're airtight. Airtight ideally means that there's no transfer of air between contents and the outside. If your plastic boxes are truly airtight, there's no air transfer happening, in either direction. Inside humidity at the point in time that you sealed a ...


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The room in question is fairly large and has several heat loss factors. Not withstanding the fact that the room sits on the cold basement floor, has large windows etc., the main problem is that the temp in the room is not thermostatically controlled properly. The only thermostat and heat zone is on the main floor and controls heat based on temps in the main ...


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I use a Black and Decker Thermal Leak Detector to compare the temperature of the walls around rooms, windows, floors, etc. With it you can determine whether an outside wall in the kitchen is colder than one in another part of the house. Also, you can remove the cover plate on an outlet on a suspected wall and use a flashlight to check for insulation.


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Increasing the fan speed is an indication of a not-very good furnace serviceman. Whatever that did, it did it everywhere in the house, so the kitchen would have the same relative temperature. An energy consultant can help you, and bring an IR camera that can "see" if a wall is insulated. You'll also want to "balance" the vents, which means turning down ...


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The HVAC systems of most buildings are controlled by thermostats. However, in most offices and other public buildings, the thermostats are not accessible to the visitors. They are typically located out of sight, in areas where access is restricted, or they are physically protected in some other way.


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Unfortunately, dehumidifying the interior air won't be enough during cold nights. A -5 to +25 °C gradient means that to prevent condensation, the interior relative humidity will have to be below 10%—which is unhealthily dry. From +8 to 25 °C is much better: Condensation will occur only at R.H. above 32%—dry, but somewhat comfortable. ...



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