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13

Oil's no good, water will wash it away, use silicone grease. You may be able to grease it up without taking it apart. Turn the water off, then lift the handle all the way up. Put a bit of grease on housing exposed when the handle is lifted, use a cotton swab to get into the gaps. Exercise the handle up and down and see if that gets rid of the squeak. If ...


9

You could also get one of these items and use it to transfer water from the sink tap to the Brita water filter/pitcher.


7

There are lots of items you can use to build a path from the faucet to a pitcher outside of the sink. Get creative, or use the popular internet solution, a dust pan:


6

Take your Britta pitcher into the shower room and fill it from the showerhead.


5

Those are supposed to be shutoff valves, but they are usually very cheap and I would not be surprised if the rubber washers are more like bricks. If you need to do tap maintenance you will need to turn off the apartment's water. Unless you are in a condo this is really the building owner's job, not yours. I stopped using this style of shutoff ages ago. You ...


5

Per Tester101's answer a bit more information There are two main types of valves - washer and cartridge. In the washer type, the stem of the valve (the part topped by the handle) moves up and down on a thread. It has a washer at the bottom that, when closed, presses agaisnt the seat of the valve stopping the water. The higher the stem raises the washer, ...


5

I see that it is hard to recommend a robust solution for you because of several missing pieces of data. Here is a summary of questions that really need to be answered - Are your current 200mm centered faucets each with their own water spout? Does your sink have two holes or three? When you say "mixer valve" are you referring to a single handle faucet or ...


5

you could use a tap-shower adapter and just cut the shower rose off. One example of a tap-shower adapter


5

The very best solution for this is to install the newest type of faucet that has an infrared sensor that detects your hands near the faucet and turns on the water. When the hands leave the area of the faucet the water turns back off. These generally operate on a battery so no special wiring is needed and as I understand the batteries last a good length of ...


4

if you just need to replace the washers can you turn off the water open the tap fully unscrew the cover flange at the bottom of the tap fit a pair of mutigrips under the flange and undo the spindle from the breach hence replacing the washers? Once you have the spindle out you will find it easier to get at the anti-vandle screw and undo it


3

Probably. Will it look good? Maybe. Some single hole kitchen faucets have an escutcheon plate that will cover a standard 8 inch, 3 hole to allow you you mount a single hole.


3

If your existing faucets had individual water spouts then you could replace with a double handle type unit. This type can accommodate a large range of faucet to faucet center spacing as the faucet and mixing spout are interconnected under the sink via interconnecting hoses. Here are dimensions for a sample unit showing the range. Here is link to online ...


3

Sure. You tap (or drill out and tap) the larger hole for a convenient thread size, and use an M6 threaded insert with that thread size (from personal experience, I suggest not using the helical type unless you have to - if there is no space constraint, a larger-outside-thread solid insert holds up better.) M6x1 with an outer of M10x1.5 seems to be a common ...


2

I presume you turned the water off to install the faucet. This usually means that air is introduced into the piping, and can cause spurting as it bleeds out. Leave the water running for a few minutes and see if it stops. Also, ensure that you've turned any shut-offs all the way back on.


2

Stuck screws around plumbing often result when water, and its dissolved minerals, wicks up into the threads and dries out, leaving rock-like deposits. On a faucet as you picture, wet hands will be used to turn off the valve, so you have a ready source of water above the thread even if the valve stem doesn't leak. Try stuffing a vinegar soaked cotton ball up ...


2

I would venture a guess that @Tester101's suspicion about your floaties coming from your glass (unrinsed soap, dust, etc.) may be heading down the right path. I would try rinsing a glass, scrubbing it with a new sponge or clean washcloth, wiping it dry with a clean towel (not paper towel, as this may leave pieces of paper behind), and then refilling it. ...


2

I would just take one of the old ones with you to a home improvement or plumbing store and find a close match. If you are trying to order them, you need to measure the outside and inside diameter along with the thickness. Sometimes it is necessary to stack two of them if one set of threads is not that deep and doesn't make contact with the washer even when ...


2

Looking at the diagram, I believe you want a basin wrench. It's designed exactly for these bolts in these tight conditions. And the next time you go to replace a sink, you'll be glad to already own one. That said, I've never heard of, nor seen a jaw dropper plumbing wrench, so I was hoping that someone with more plumbing experience would chime in.


2

In the long term, I think you need to replace the faucet, but in the meantime: You could try an epoxy with metal added (J-B Weld is the most famous, but the SuperGlue company makes a light-duty metal epoxy that I've used for a bunch of jobs; the one-use packages are available at the 99-cent store). In either case, clean and dry the surfaces (turn off the ...


2

This is an easy fix. Your supply lines were simply installed to the wrong shutoff. If you look under your sink there should be two shutoff valves. One hot, one cold. The supply lines (may be rubber or have a stainless sheath or plastic) go from these valves to your faucet. Turn the shutoffs off. Open both sides of the faucet to relieve pressure. Unhook ...


2

The biggest risk is someone being burned. In North America, cold should always be on the right side and hot on the left. If you are outside of this region you should check with local standards. It sounds like you either bought a faucet from a different region, or maybe your original faucet was installed backwards. With regards to the actual plumbing, it ...


2

We spoke to a plumber. Speaking off-record, he thought the problem might not be related to the new tap but may be incidental. We now think its because of the pressure in our boiler. About a week after I posted this question, the pressure reached zero. We didn't realise that we had low pressure until it briefly stopped working! After re-pressurizing it, the ...


2

Can you make this adapter work? This one converts a male 1/2 inch thread to an M22 size. You can see it for sale at this web site.


2

The reason why the plumber says this is that the cost to replace just the screw (for him) would be greater than the cost to replace the whole handle and valve assembly. This is because he can replace the whole handle assembly in 10 minutes, but it would probably take him at least 30-45 minutes minimum to find and install a perfect replacement screw. If you ...


2

Whenever they leak. If it's loose & just pops out there's no harm in replacing it, assuming you have a replacement. If it's solid & seems possibly part of a cartridge then leave it until the cartridge needs replacing...they either don't turn off completely or they turn off before you hit the stop.


2

See if a careful knife or razor blade might pop it off, the spring clamps could be pretty strong. If that fails to widen the gap, then it's a screw-on cap. You'll need to treat it like a faucet aerator that you don't want to scratch, by wrapping the cap with cloth, leather, rubber, plastic or even liberal tape & take big (long) pliers to it. It should be ...


2

Have you tried an open-end wrench? Such as this: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wrench#/media/File%3A2008-04-14_Chrome-Vanadium_Wrenches.jpg It won't fit flat onto the nut but it looks like you could get a good grip on it at a shallow angle. The end of a spanner (adjustable wrench) is quite a bit thicker and harder to maneuver in tight spaces. ...


2

The seal in your faucet is failing, and water is building up very slowly. Surface tension keeps it in a shallow bubble until it finally flows out the horizontal faucet segment in a burst. Disassemble your faucet and check for mineral deposits and other debris. Clean or replace the ceramic or rubber seals, and lubricate rubber seals with white grease.


2

If this happens just one or twice a few minutes after you've used the cold tap, it's more likely to be thermal expansion. Especially in the winter when the water arrives further below room temperature, or if you have a mixer tap. Some taps hold quite a lot of water, and the few percent thermal expansion from the incoming temperature to run temperature can ...


1

The only way to stop it is to press it hard from above Sounds like the inner stem threads are worn out. Given the apparent age of the fixture in the photo it seems likely. You might be able to remove the inner parts and get new ones. Given the value of single taps it is simply not worth your time and gas to do that kind of repair. Definitely get a ...



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