Hot answers tagged taping
To answer your questions: "Why doesn't duct tape work for cables? Is it the fault of plasticizers? " - No -- it is more likely that exposure to air dries the glue, causing it to eventually lose its tack and become unstuck. This is also the reason that you're often left with sticky residue, as air was unable to penetrate to the underside of the glue. "Does ...
Paint will only cover up VERY minor imperfections, like pinholes in a wall (and even then, if it's a big pinhole, it may still show through). If texturing didn't cover it, paint (which is MUCH thinner) definitely won't.
I'd argue it's not worth taping in the first place. Learn to 'cut in' with a brush and you'll save yourself all sorts of headaches in the future. As for the advice, I have a hunch they don't mean literally tear off 1' sections of tapes, but apply it as-you-go foot by foot. Meaning, expose a foot of tape, rub it down good, expose more tape, rub that section ...
Scraping then taping will work. Re-blending the new and old textures invisibly is nearly impossible. Consider replacing 3 to 4ft instead of 12" and adding a wainscot or just a chair rail and leave the bottom smooth.
Personally I would not lose a lot of sleep over this. The molding will probably cover it up. If not have the contractor make the necessary adjustments. Tape would still be needed for the seam that is above the door that we can't see in the pictures. Do you feel that part of the seam was properly done? There is also an indentation on the edge of wall ...
If you are sanding the paper tape, you definitely need more mud. So put on more mud. Removing it would not really help, it would just make more of a mess you have to mud over. I suggest 3-4", 6-8" and 12" for a progression in drywall "knives" (a coat with the small one, knock off only the high points, a coat with the medium one, knock off only the high ...
Also have run into this issue when I used to manage a couple labs. Duct tape does not hold long to paint+plastic cabling. We Velcro tie cables at work now and use Velcro stick pads for walls and carpet if needed. Pretty cheap and you can move things and put them back when needed.
In the long term, I think you need to replace the faucet, but in the meantime: You could try an epoxy with metal added (J-B Weld is the most famous, but the SuperGlue company makes a light-duty metal epoxy that I've used for a bunch of jobs; the one-use packages are available at the 99-cent store). In either case, clean and dry the surfaces (turn off the ...
On the plus side, the people who did your ductwork made an attempt to seal it! On the minus side, they used tape instead of mastic. Tape can come off, as you've discovered. If you really want to do an A+ job, seal those joints with a generous application of mastic. It's basically a sort of putty-like substance intended for duct sealing.
Gaffer tape doesn't leave the horrible residue of duct tape and may be strong enough to hold cables to a wall. In my experience, in every application longer than a few days, duct tape either leaves a sticky residue or a crumbly, dried-adhesive residue, both of which are quite difficult to remove. Because I've seen this on many surfaces, I conclude that the ...
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