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Your hydronic heating system should operate between 15 and 20 psi. The expansion tank, which is pressurized by factory, should be pressurized close to the operating pressure. At no time should your system ever exceed, or come close to exceeding the pressure relief valve rating which is 30psi. Most residential closed loop systems operate at 15-18psi. If the ...


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There are a few problems with your plan. Thermal Conductivity First off. If you're going to make a heat exchanger, you should use copper instead of PEX. Copper has a thermal conductivity of 401 watts/meter kelvin (W/mK), while PEX is closer to 0.51. Volume The next problem, is the volume of water you're preheating. 1" PEX has an inside diameter (I.D.) ...


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Did you insulate your pipes beyond the water heater so that they are not losing the heat rise per foot? The hotter they stay before appliance the less demand for rise on the heater. Make sure you tape all the seams. Also do a tune on your heater -- often with both on boil and forced style heaters the efficiency and heat rise are below spec. I've seen ...


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You could add a smaller tank-less heater in front. Some of them are even rated to be plugged into an outlet so you won't have to do additional electrical work. In Europe I've seen it done with a bigger unit to supply the whole house and a smaller one at the shower for use during the winter. In either case you're going to get a lot further with this ...


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The typical way to pre-warm water is to install a standard tank water heater before the tankless, but leave it turned off. Using an automotive radiator is a terrible idea. You don't want to connect something not designed for potable water to your plumbing. That's just asking for trouble. The pex idea is interesting. The only reason that I can think that ...


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Do NOT use an automotive radiator - it's not meant for nor suitable for potable water use. If you have a "relatively warm basement" you can either use a plain, uninsulated pressure tank (a "tempering" tank in this application - cold in the bottom, warmed out the top) or run a long run of large-ish diameter PEX (to minimize pressure drop) around the basement ...


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I'm not sure where you live but US code calls for a minimum of #8 if you're using copper or #6 if you're using aluminum. There would be no advantage in using a larger wire size in this case because at 30ft you will have negligible losses. I don't know what your voltage is or how many phases you have but for an example of what your losses may be, I will ...



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